TOPIC:

I got a couple stupid questions, most likely you covered these, but how do you know its getting fuel? did you check the fuel level in the carbs w/ a clear tube? Also, what about the 4 vacuum lines on the intake manifolds? are they capped and/or going to the emission device? Did you hook the fuel line and petcock vacuum lines up properly? What about the two vents for the float bowls? are they clear? I was looking at the pic you had in your other thread and I see a large white hose from the carbs, but do not see another - if you're using the fuel tank, you need to hook the vac line up from the carb (I think it comes off of #3) to the upper petcock barb and the fuel line goes to the lower one - the petcock will not pass fuel along unless they are both hooked up, or the petcock is in the prime position.

If you say it's got spark and fuel, it sounds like timing to me too. I did have a similar issue on my 750... I had the coils hooked up backwards - I think they are both hot, but its the black wires (or maybe they were green - I can't remember) that make the timing correct. It sputtered, coughed, backfired etc. until I swapped the leads.

But unless the clearances are TERRIBLE and/or there is damage, she should at least give you a little hint or tease of starting. My parts 550 I just picked up has all the clearances out of spec and it popped right off.

More info would help.
Steve

How do the choke flaps look?

Ok, so this is not the preferred way to troubleshoot but this is what I did when I had a hard time getting my bike going again after 20 years..
You have to figure out if it is not getting spark or gas. So,...
To eliminate if it is not getting gas take off the air box or filters and while turning the engine over spray starter fluid into the carbs,...the bike should start if the issue is gas starvation. I ran my bike for about 30 seconds that way. If it does nothing then you have an electrical problem.

I highly appreciate everyone's times offering help . So I have swapped grounds to the coils no fire. The timing is definitely on right today I will remove cover and post a pic of how the cams look with piston # one at TDC and also will post pics again of how the ignition magnet looks with the advances then one with the pulsed coils on . One thing I have not done and probably will do today is try to adjust the floats since it over fills another thing my carbs have no hoses on the carbs since they got burned another thing the choke lever everything seems very good and clean. The igniter should work I got it on eBay it was used but seemed pretty good condition and clean a swell as the Cdi along with the pulser coils.

Pics of the carbs.
Steve

Yeah, pic of the carbs are needed. In another post you mentioned putting fuel in them from the filter? (its hard to follow your posts, sorry). Also, the choke lever is horiztonal to engage the choke, vertical to disengage. Its not like a ball valve on an airline or water line.

If you have the vents on the intake manifold open, along with the vacuum line meant for the petock open, you may be pulling in a crap ton of air and not much fuel... but I'd expect at least a sputter or cough from it.

If you can't use the tank, block all all the vac ports and take a small funnel or something and stuff it into the fuel line hose and put some gas in it.

"since it over fills another thing my carbs have no hoses on the carbs"

You need to correct those issues before you can expect the engine to run properly. Ed

I'll be sure to post pics of the carbs too!!! By 5:30 I'll have pics of all that I said

here look at this. This is on lous goldmine site in is signature. The fuel line needs fuel. The line coming off #4 needs to be plugged or go to the petcock. The other two need to be open, hoses not needed for just testing purposes. the manifolds NEED to be plugged. Even if I pull a vac cap off mine while running it will chug badly on 3 pistons.

Ok so I stopped at the store and buaght the valve measure tool and it seems that piston #one on both side the .002 slides threw good with just a bearly touching but all the others when I turn the engine to we're the cam is not engaging the valve they all don't go threw even though the measure tool is super thin it won't slide threw. I've looked at the manual and have read up how to do it but still not quite sure since I've never really done it but says I am to remove the cam and take off the shim and I have to buy another one or something?? ??? What do I do? Also here are pics of how the cam aligns is it off I have counted the pins and the marking on both sides seem to be right were they go another thing the advancer marker marks on the T line what should I go about all this something seem wrong?

What bike is this? If you remove one cam at a time being careful not to let the chain jump a tooth, you can change the intakes, then exhaust. Make a chart with enough boxes and mark down your sizes. If you can't get a reading, Put a T there, then the size of the shim. You'll want to two sizes up on those. There's some threads here on adjusting valves.
Steve