TOPIC:

Give the guy a break! He said he's a viking.
He hasn't done this shit before.

It is kinda funny though, for a 2 minute job.

Nice pic, by the way.

So... anyways. Lots of bike shops will probly have the right puller-bolt, and most will be perfectly willing to pop it off for nothing. This way, you dont have to buy anything that you will probly not use again for a very long time.

Like I said a while back, all you need is a hard bolt and a hammer. Best place to get bolt/puller is at industrial fastener companies, like fastenal, or call local shops. i blieve it is an M18x1.5mm

To get the clutch hub dissasembled you WILL need an impact, or a strong clutch hub holder tool, and a 21mm Socket (i think), which is rediculously hard to find local.

just though I'd say in advance so you wont have to wait like this again...

Good luck man!

PS. HERES THE INFO FOR THE FASTENAL IN KINGSTON, AND THEY HAVE THIS BOLT:
M18x1.5mm
1225 Gardiners
Kingston, ON K7M 7H4
(613) 389-3968

I give up I guess the laws of physics don't apply in your garage Patton

Well then....this should work just fine....

I'll weld a really long extension on my puller here in Pa until it's long enough to reach that rotor in....where is he thing anyway....Canada

You thread it in [cause I can't see that far]... Call me when it's good to go;) & I'll hit it with my mallet here in Pa.......should pop right off brother

larry why do have to drag the army into every thread you reply?

Kitten Tooth wrote:

I wouldnt recommend using the ballbearing technique. I heard that you can push the ball bearing into the end of the crank and make a 12 dollar job and 300 dollar job. I heard you can use a rear axle though it would just be easier to go to your local powersports or bike shop and just pick up the 12 dollar puller. Break the bolt loose that would hold the flywheel on regularly and then thread in the puller. There are 2 sets of threads, threads on the magnetic flywheel and threads on the crank. The puller will thread into the threads on the flywheel. Then pop er' loose with an impact wrench and you'll be on your way:D Good luck man. I VERY much recommend using an impact wrench. It makes things almost too easy.

been using the ball bearing trick since before you were born! the trick is to use the right size of ball bearing ,if things dont move you need to stop and check why instead of just cranking away till something breaks

larrycavan wrote:

Yea....use your ropes, hammers, axles and what the hell, might as well dig out the bumper jack from the trunk of the 65 Impala and see of you can't push one off with that while your at it.......

Amazing This has become such a joke it belongs in the Chit Chat section instead of the Technical section.

yeah the bumper jack is only used for installing harmonic balancers on chevy v8s in the car,proper tool selection is the key here!

use the dam bolt off top of triple tree already!

Anybody ever wonder how/why these work to limit torque from your impact gun: www.shopzeus.com/product.php?sku=zeusd1-COST-6207184

Larry's right, shorter is better here.

it's oxidized on there right..and lubes cant get at it...it may be pulled and crack the nature weld but i doubt the force need could be delivered by tapping hard without sending that tap into bad places or at best transferring the force away and out opf the oxi spot...i had to remove the rear pedal spline pivot section on my 550 yesterday cause it was oxi seized..the steel spline had oxidized to the aluminum peg bracket...right before i broke the peg bracket i changed methods and removed the set up, used a finish hammer and a back up block (my bench and down force tap)for the bracket..where in the exact tap could deliver it's jolt the spline only first tap it moved,after countless blows with mallets and blocks....the bike was absorbing the needed direct force...by isolating my effort it "broke" the oxi that had built up in the splines dry lube groove...

long story short....larry's short method or an isolating factory type puller will direct the force only to the small area oxi spot and crack the nature weld...in the first try i bet

is this thing still not off????

No, it's not off yet. I went to a store in town that didn't have the bolt again, they had M18, but no fine thread. I will try Fastenal Jay, but I think I have to buy a minimum of 25 pieces don't I? Anyways, don't get mad people. There is a first time of everything, and I bet you guys all had a tough time with something too.