TOPIC:

I'm sorry, but I have to go with Larry on this one. Why the hell are you still effing around with this? Z1 Enterprises has the puller you need for $9.00. All this aggravation for $9.00?? Rush shipping maybe another $10.00 and Bob's yer' uncle!

I wouldnt recommend using the ballbearing technique. I heard that you can push the ball bearing into the end of the crank and make a 12 dollar job and 300 dollar job. I heard you can use a rear axle though it would just be easier to go to your local powersports or bike shop and just pick up the 12 dollar puller. Break the bolt loose that would hold the flywheel on regularly and then thread in the puller. There are 2 sets of threads, threads on the magnetic flywheel and threads on the crank. The puller will thread into the threads on the flywheel. Then pop er' loose with an impact wrench and you'll be on your way:D Good luck man. I VERY much recommend using an impact wrench. It makes things almost too easy.

larrycavan wrote:

The leverage you think you're putting on it with a long screwdriver through the axle isn't as much as you might think it is.

It's the outright shock factor that's needed and you loose it through the length of the axle.

Example:

Take a 3/8 impact gun. Put a 12" extension on it with a socket on the extension. Tighten or loosen something.

Then remove the 12" extension and use just the socket on the impact. You'll see it is significantly more effective the shorter the length.

The shorter the shaft on the puller, the more twisting and shock force it can deliver.

I'll post a picture of the setup I use.

With reference to "leverage," the torsion bar effect is understood. (See image below)

However, tight is tight, and the "shock factor" may then be applied with a hammer (dead blow would be best), and imo "length" of the tool would not be a critical factor.

"Shock" delivered via impact driver or air hammer would be diminished by the torque effect of a longer tool. (If it's okay to say that).

From the peanut gallery nose-bleed section.

Good Fortune!

Yea....use your ropes, hammers, axles and what the hell, might as well dig out the bumper jack from the trunk of the 65 Impala and see of you can't push one off with that while your at it.......

Amazing This has become such a joke it belongs in the Chit Chat section instead of the Technical section.

Just as an FYI

In the mid 80's, the dealership I worked at changed more J cranks than you've probably seen pictures of. In 84 alone, we shipped over 25 cranks to Falicon for their services.

Kawasaki paid the warranty time to R&R a crank. Depending on the J model it paid from 6.8 to 7.5 hours as I recall. With that kind of time, you don't mess around all afternoon getting a rotor of. You grab the tool I described, spin it in, wack it with the mallet and move on.

I've probably personally pulled over 100 of those rotors over the years. Occasionally you'd run into a tight one that would fight to hang on but I can't ever recall one taking longer than a few minutes max to get off.

As for the length of the puller doesn't matter...... If that's what you believe, then make all your pullers have 4 foot long threaded shafts and try twisting on the end of those with a wrench....see how that works for ya

Curious as to the Warranty problems with the "J" cranks? What service did the Falicon company do, repair?

X2...am i gonna need to worry if i ever get my stock 1000 j back on the bench and get it going?
Motor Head wrote:

Curious as to the Warranty problems with the "J" cranks? What service did the Falicon company do, repair?

Kitten Tooth wrote:

I wouldn't recommend using the ball bearing technique. I heard that you can push the ball bearing into the end of the crank and make a 12 dollar job and 300 dollar job....

Idea is to protect end of crankshaft from abrasive twisting possibly applied by a makeshift tool.

Ball bearing or slug or whatever must be correct diameter so as not to injure end of crankshaft or threads in crankshaft. Of course whatever is used must not be small enough to mash into the threads.

Akin to reason for the ball bearing between clutch push rod and spring plate pusher. Avoids abrasion between the surfaces.

The Kawasaki special tool is designed to fit precisely against end of the crankshaft without damaging the crankshaft.

Good Fortune!

larrycavan wrote:

Yea....use your ropes, hammers, axles and what the hell, might as well dig out the bumper jack from the trunk of the 65 Impala and see of you can't push one off with that while your at it.......

Amazing This has become such a joke it belongs in the Chit Chat section instead of the Technical section.

You don't have to start insulting, I haven't disputed anything you're saying. I know this is kind of ridiculous that it is taking so long to get it off, but I have noticed seemingly everything on this motor is stuck way more than on the motor I did last year. There are broken off studs and bolts everywhere, I don't have a clue why, but that's the way it is. I would have tried the impact driver by now, but I can't find a bolt to fit anywhere. Yesterday morning I visited 5 places looking for an 18 x 1.5 bolt and there are seemingly none to be found. I would try using your T handle method Larry, but I don't have a spare axle. I am going to call Z1E tomorrow at work and order the puller they have. This way I have the right tool forever, and don't have to mess around with jury rigs next time.

dont mind him...he an experrrrrt...cherry picking us hobby bike boys

well, is the mofo off yet or are we going for a world record page count on this thread?If all else fails,little C-4+ one igniter+ Kevlar jacket to catch the thing and "phoot" shes off--well maybe in a few pieces but off nonetheless.lol.bj

larrycavan wrote:

...As for the length of the puller doesn't matter...... If that's what you believe, then make all your pullers have 4 foot long threaded shafts and try twisting on the end of those with a wrench....see how that works for ya....

Don't know of many 4 foot long axle bolts.

But granted, axle is longer than the kawasaki special tool.

For diy'ers using a threaded whatever longer than the special Kaw tool, there are two separate factors involved:
(a) Torsion bar effect (tightening tool into position),
(b) Shock effect (whacking end of tool).

Tightening tool into position may alone remove the rotor, but often the shock effect (i.e., whack end of tool with hammer) is also required to break the rotor's grip on tapered end of crankshaft.

Alternatively, some shock effect would be simultaneously applied where using an impact wrench or air hammer on non-threaded end of tool (capable of socket fitment).

Torsion bar effect is proportional to length of the tool.

Where either Kaw tool or axle bolt is screwed into position with equal torque, an equivalent hammer blow to end of either length tool should produce the same "shock" at thread end of the tool, because force applied through center line of tool is unrelated to torsion bar effect of the longer tool.

Good Fortune!