TOPIC:

It would make things easier, but no. They have a holding tool for the rotor from Kawasaki, but you don't need that either.
Ever done the soft rope down the plug hole trick? Put #1 at TDC firing position with both valves closed, then back the piston down the stroke in the opposite direction of bolt tightening, counter clock wise. Feed about a foot or a bit more of some soft cotton rope, then turn the engine to bring the piston back towards TDC. It will stop on the rope, and you can then tighten the Axle into the rotor.
Just be sure of the valve position, both closed!

Also good for the re-torque when installing the bolt for the rotor. Tighten to 116ft lbs, loosen then torque again to 116ft lbs, is FSM for "J" motor.

I have the cylinders off (in the pic)so I can't do that. Since I am likely not going to be using the alternator from this bike I may just try heating it up and banging on it with the axle in there. If that does not work I may just have to order another tool....

And again, just to make sure, that one single bolt was the only thing holding the rotor on the crank right?

Smoke wrench right at the center hub. Stay away from the magnets and it should be ok even if you want it someday.
It has a taper fit, so the heat will expand it to let it off the taper.

9am53 wrote:

ok, there seems to be no give whatsoever. How do you keep the rotor from spinning when you are tightening the axle in?

Just so that I am not making a dumb mistake, the bolt that was in the crank originally is not part of this procedure right? I am putting a ball bearing into the hole so that the axle I am threading in pushes against the inside part where the bolt originally was and separates off right?

here we go again...wrenchin' winter number 2!

You are correct. Remove the original bolt. Ball bearing pushes on the end of the crank. Take it to a garage and let them hit it with an impact gun. It makes all the difference. You could fight it for 2 hours with hand tools, and the impact gun will solve your problem in 5 seconds.

testarossa wrote:

You are correct. Remove the original bolt. Ball bearing pushes on the end of the crank. Take it to a garage and let them hit it with an impact gun. It makes all the difference. You could fight it for 2 hours with hand tools, and the impact gun will solve your problem in 5 seconds.[/quote]

+1
btw, you should be banned for 24 hours for the Misleading topic title.

KZ porn, I'll feed them a morsel.

OK so this is pretty basic compared to all of the "Builds" but I like it. This is before going with some Vetter and rear rack/ box for my 3600mi trip to seattle and back. More sporty back when this was taken, oh and I bought it for, ready, $275. Of course it didn't run or look good but it had the V&H already.

kawsakiman wrote:

+1
btw, you should be banned for 24 hours for the Misleading topic title.

Hey man, that motor has a big ron jeremy hard on, and to keep it forum safe it's being responsible and has a rubber on.

So would the air gun just be stuck inside the threaded rotor hole and set to bang on the crank? this will loosen the rotor off? strange

No, use the impact gun to tighten the axle bolt down.

Air hammer is to tighten the axle bolt without concern about crankshaft rotation.

Absent air hammer or impact driver to tighten the axle bolt, could consider holding crankshaft in position by putting bike in gear and applying rear brake while tightening the bolt with an ordinary hand wrench.

Good Fortune!

Another alternative used by some folks is using a gear puller, or wheel puller, with sometimes a "whack" assist.

Good Fortune!

OK, If I borrow an impact gun and hook it to my compressor I don't think I can get it connected to my axle as it has the round end (no nut end to hook a socket to) I have a blind hole bearing puller that I could try. THis poor motor has been through so much...I took the pistons off and 2 of the 4 skirts were shattered and missing pieces.

9am53 wrote:

OK, If I borrow an impact gun and hook it to my compressor I don't think I can get it connected to my axle as it has the round end (no nut end to hook a socket to) I have a blind hole bearing puller that I could try. THis poor motor has been through so much...I took the pistons off and 2 of the 4 skirts were shattered and missing pieces.

don't think I can get it connected to my axle as it has the round end (no nut end to hook a socket to) --- doesn't it have flats or perhaps a hole through it?

Shouldn't have to use a pipe wrench.

Good Fortune!