TOPIC:

I did not read the emodel on their list. No part I. My book.

I pulls red line in each gear. With no shield.it got a bit squirrelly I. 5th near 8I. R

Well I put on a Slipstreamer Hellfire SS 24 shield. At 5'9" this shield is the perfect height and works well. It is very windy here today 20moh sustained 35 gusts. It really affets the handling at speed in these high winds. Will see how it is when thing calm down. Wind protection is good.

Also solved my coil issues. The ground was the coil actually touch the tank. I used some 3/4" steel spacers. Check.

Lastly, the valve cover gasket ripped when removing. Need a new one. These billet cam plugs suck. Going back to rubber. One helicoil performed, another needed. Opposite side on the cover on a blind hole. Still have a small oil leak there.

Anyway a few pics and there is a short vid too.

R

Looks great R!

I'm digging the creature comforts you've got happening on that saweet KZ.

Pretty sure I put the darn tach seal in backward. It's leaking. I'll check and see if it is salvageable but I doubt it. More ordering R

Okay, so what is the proper orientation for the tach oil seal? The FSM manual has no image. The old one was unrecognizable, and the replacement I am guessing I put in backward. Should it be spring seal facing the cable or the head? I put it in facing the head and it leaked like a stuck pig, so I am guessing now the spring seal should face the cable. Also the gear guide was very difficult to remove and destroyed pulling it out. A vice grip and slide hammer was needed to free it the first few MM. The pinion gear is good. New one on the way. Any tips appreciated. R

The spring faces the head.
Steve

The spring side goes in, the smooth rubber side faces out.

When mine was leaking I replaced the seal, gasket, o-ring, and guide. That was 9 years ago and it has not leaked since. Ed

Well it was in there correctly but I must have torn the seal when placing the pinion gear. New seal and guide coming. Will also hit my second Helicoil on the cover bolts and wait.for the gasket and parts in the mail. R

Okay, so while waiting for a tach oil seal, gear guide and head cover gasket I was able to dink a bit. Put two more helicoils in cover bolt holes. All other threads look solid for now. Will use 65 in lbs and a drop of loctite when going back together. I have the backrest rack modified for quick release. It takes loosening the the two shock bolts and a 2 wing nuts to remove the pieces together in about 3 minutes. As I mentioned the seat does not lift with the rack installed. I think the setup will work well. 8mm bolts on the wing nuts with lock washers and loctite, I put a U channel in the bracket on the shock bolts. Also rechecked valve clearance properly. I have three shims at .06mm proud + .01mm clearances, two at .08mm proud, and three at .10mm proud. I wrote down shim sizes when disassembled, but have decided that a shim tool would be best given the fragile nature of the cam bolt threads. Figure a season won't wear that much, but better to do now. I need one shim of the three 0.06mms to change - a 265. This would get all clearances to .08mm-.11mm. Sounds like a plan. Also stripped down the original MKII tank. The tank is in great shape metal wise, but the finish was roached. My respray myself or sell on ebay. If I did it myself there would be no decal on the tank. The replacement tank finish is good, but it has various 35 YO scrapes and scratches. The metal is also a bit more surface rusted underneath. More to come. R

Dayum R; you're a machine!

How do you get so much accomplished, so fast?

So what exactly is a "shim tool" anyway? I've heard of this before but I thought it was a joke reference for a set of feeler gauges and when I search it, pics show up of a frankenstein looking wrench or what appears to be fancier feeler gauges. What size shims does the 1000st use?

The large fours have shim on top buckets. 29mm shims.
Steve