TOPIC:

Rode 100+ miles today. No problems since the loom was rerouted. Here's a few pics. R

Where's the pic's of the big-ol-smile on your face,
Pete

Good for you, you've earned it.
Steve

Thanks guys. Couldn't have done it without help from KZR. Well at least couldn't have done it right.

Several things still to do. Helicoil a valve cover bolt, seal the bullet can caps with sealant and the futon strips, quick release fit the rack/backrest and more I am sure. It runs well. Third gear is pretty amazing!. Also have a windshield coming.

Maybe some fresh paint over winger. It looks it's age. R

Need a clip of you riding that puppy.
Steve

Nice work. I agree we need some action shots... A beatiful country backdrop with a black and chrome blur that resembles a motorcycle. Enjoy your shaftie and keep the rubber side down.

Thank you. R

Hahaha, a labor of love. Came to the garage and found a small gas leak from the air box drain. It was hitting the stator and starter wire harnesses and leaking down thru and under the clutch cover. Pulled the air filter out. A small amount of gas in there, no more that a 1 oz. no more than an oz on the floor. The K&N rubber flange was roached up at the very bottom, misshapen and gummy.

Sure enough petcock. Up to a bright light there was the smallest of pin holes in the diaphragm. Gas was leaking both from the vacuum and fuel fitting at a slow drip. I had an extra and it seems to be holding. The stock diaphragm has a nice cone shape oring on on it, the second tank had a normal oring. Anyway it would appear to be holding gas. Looking at the geometry it seems to me air box would get flooded before cylinder. no change in oil level or appearance.

Also has some arcing return. Before I shield the whole bottom of the tank is it possible that pickup pulsars are causing the arc? The coils are fully shielded with rubber boots. They are new wires and caps. I did reuse the coil end connectors, but the are fully inserted and covered.

Also had the tank upside down and several directions and the fuel send is off, working but I wonder if it is possible to have flipped the float over the wrong direction?

What says ye?

R

The tank is isolated by rubber parts. it shouldn't be able to provide a ground source.
Steve

Mmm, the tank had the front grommets and rear tab grommet, but no frame rumber underneath. Will check parts list. It runs to dam good to be the pickups. BTW with an 80s 85pmh PC speedo, how fast is 5th at 8000rpm? Feels like light speed with no windshield. Guessing 130s. R

There should be two rubber cushions on the frame.
z1parts.net/h1-500-kh500-z1-900-kz900-kz...tank-cushion-rubber/
With my higher gearing I'm at 80 at 5000 RPM. With this F'ed up Tach I can't tell what I'm doing at 100 or so. When they send me a new one I'll tell you. I'd guess you're at 120 or so. You might be able to get a 160 speedo from them and adapt it to your bike.
z1parts.net/z1-900-kz900-kz1000-speedometer-mph/
Steve

rrsmsw9999 wrote: Mmm, the tank had the front grommets and rear tab grommet, but no frame rumber underneath. Will check parts list. It runs to dam good to be the pickups. BTW with an 80s 85pmh PC speedo, how fast is 5th at 8000rpm? Feels like light speed with no windshield. Guessing 130s. R

Stupid ass Jimmy Carter.... the 85 mph speedo is pretty much useless when your out playing around. If understand the drive ratio correctly your 1000st should be 120-130 mph near redline. That's about all these liter bikes will go without some performance mods. Really if that thing will pull to redline in top gear you've got a good strong running bike.

If that shaft drive is anything like my 1300 you'll love it. Smooth power and geared short enough to have some fun. I hate the long legs of the older Goldwings, saved on fuel but they were kind of boring to drive. Lazy on the throttle. The KZ shaft is much more "performance" oriented.