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Work continues. So far, finding an all black shifting lever assembly has proven fruitless. Wiring tray is being organized but is functional. Engine is now properly attached after shifting and shuffling the engine and mounts around until they finally lined up. The rear end is properly assembled including brakes and connecting linkages. The brake lever spring decided my face was a better resting place than the bike. I had to brake the news to it haha. Idiot light cluster has turned out fantastically.




This is the right exhaust port however. Heavy carbon and white powder... It's not metal so I'm breathing easier but I am very confused? I am curious if you can effectively do a seafoam treatment/ if that is advise able with these old bikes?



I am waiting for my wiring friend to help with a few loose ends and use the old wiring to connect the new LED idiot lights to their mounted sockets that you can see. The old one works just fine. Now I have spare bulbs for the gauge backlighting . There is a lot of wiring to hide behind the headlight now though. There was lots before. Now there is more. Plan is to loom as much as I can to tidy it up.

The beast is assembling...

I didn't have the belt on when I removed the pulley. I wrapped it in shop rags then used a C-clamp to keep it from spinning. One pull of the trigger on my impact driver got the nut right off.

With the belt on you could probably just put a pipe through the rear wheel to lock it up the hit the nut nut with the impact driver...I done that many times to get front sprockets off, but never tried it with a belt system.

First hiccup. Installed new pads on the stock front disc caliper. The only thing I did was push the piston in a bit to get the brake back on the disc. This is the new master cylinder. It's smaller than the stock. Think half the size. The stock master cylinder is badly road rashed.


Suddenly I don't have brake pressure. I've flushed the line twice now using roughly 50mL of fluid. No air bubbles. Nothing. Still no brake pressure. Ideas? I understand that in order to reinstall your brakes, the lines go on dry hence why I flushed. The bleed valve on the caliper is closed. I'll admit I haven't had a chance to do much bike maintenance on this beast before it needed work so I apologize for my noobness on this one in advance.

Have you tried reverse bleeding (ie. injecting brake fluid at the caliper)? I had the same problem when I installed new brake lines. When I tried this technique, a lot of bubbles came out the top that wouldn't with traditional bleeding, I think after that I also had to tie the lever to the handlebar and leave it for a few days for the last bits of air to work their way up to the reservoir.

I can't tell from the picture, I may have the same master cylinder on my 440. I had issues getting it to work. I ditched the bolt that came with it and used the original that seemed to get it to work.

This is the one I have. New Front Brake Master Cylinder With 8mm Mirror Hole for 50cc 125cc 150cc 250cc Gy6 Scooter Moped Atv Dirt Pit Bike Right Side www.amazon.com/dp/B00AMAHJ6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Q5H-vbDRJZP30

Thanks for your input guys. I've switched to the original bolt as I'm reusing the original line. Good thinking Dom! This way I know things will line up. Secondly, I can't find the article now but it was mentioned here on KZR by a wise member that the angle of the master cylinder has to be just right so that the highest point is the MC instead of the slight line bend after the MC . At the moment, because the bike is on a mechanics hydraulic stand, the bike is level. Fluid has to be added to the brake lines when the bike is instead resting on it's kickstand . Bingo gringo. This way the MC is the highest point for air bubbles to be released. I betcha I have air in that slight bend right now. I'll let you know how this works out but I'm fairly confident this may bring some necessary results.

Life is crazy right now before my wedding. Serious struggle to get this done. I'm more stressed about it than she is though. Definitely marrying the right one!

Dom, thanks for sourcing it because I didn't know until now it's origin! That is exactly it!

Still troubleshooting the brakes. Shimmy, thanks for the mention regarding reverse bleeding. That's my next step. Found a vacuum line pump for $60 at Princess Auto. Hoping to see results this week.

Switched the old warning light (idiot light) assembly to LED. Used the old harness. New box and face. Pics were posted before but after today it works! Very very happy with the results.

Wrapped headers and reverse megaphones are on! There's a problem though.

Look at how close the exhaust and belt are. Yeah they are touching. I'm going to hunt around what's been done previously. I had wondered.

Protect your paint when reverse bleeding. Can't remember if it was during reverse bleeding, but my M/C was doing a little bit of spitting from the M/C. So I mad sure I had a tarp over the bike when doing it. What finally worked for me was doing vacuum bleed. Purchased a brake vacuum pump from Harbor Frieght. I had tried gravity bleed as well, but the vacuum bleed did the trick. Good luck.

So Joe, am I understanding you correctly that in order I do a proper vacuum bleed, the MC cover has to be off? Just asking as I've obviously not done it yet. Plan is to vacuum bleed and then reverse feed in the hope of eliminating my air in the line issues.

Hi Jbosh, just clarify a bit. As you know, you need to add more fluid to the reservoir as it gets drawn down during the bleeding process. You don't want it to go dry and introduce more air. I would keep it on, but loose. In my case, both of my bikes had M/C's with two screws for the cover. So I would just sit the cover on. Fluid may still seep out during the process but at least it is not shooting out allover the place. To be honest, I can't remember which method was doing that, normal hand pumping action bleeding method, or the vacuum bleeding, or both.

Here is the vacuum unit I used. Just a note, it wasn't working for me. Then I took a look at the rubber attachment that comes with the tool which goes on the caliper bleeder nut and noticed there was no hole there (manufacture defect). Poked a hole and it worked great.
www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-...-pump-kit-69328.html

Even in the video below, I would be concerned some coming by and knocking the handle bars and fluid flying all over.