TOPIC:

Still troubleshooting the brakes. Shimmy, thanks for the mention regarding reverse bleeding. That's my next step. Found a vacuum line pump for $60 at Princess Auto. Hoping to see results this week.

Switched the old warning light (idiot light) assembly to LED. Used the old harness. New box and face. Pics were posted before but after today it works! Very very happy with the results.

Wrapped headers and reverse megaphones are on! There's a problem though.

Look at how close the exhaust and belt are. Yeah they are touching. I'm going to hunt around what's been done previously. I had wondered.

Protect your paint when reverse bleeding. Can't remember if it was during reverse bleeding, but my M/C was doing a little bit of spitting from the M/C. So I mad sure I had a tarp over the bike when doing it. What finally worked for me was doing vacuum bleed. Purchased a brake vacuum pump from Harbor Frieght. I had tried gravity bleed as well, but the vacuum bleed did the trick. Good luck.

So Joe, am I understanding you correctly that in order I do a proper vacuum bleed, the MC cover has to be off? Just asking as I've obviously not done it yet. Plan is to vacuum bleed and then reverse feed in the hope of eliminating my air in the line issues.

Hi Jbosh, just clarify a bit. As you know, you need to add more fluid to the reservoir as it gets drawn down during the bleeding process. You don't want it to go dry and introduce more air. I would keep it on, but loose. In my case, both of my bikes had M/C's with two screws for the cover. So I would just sit the cover on. Fluid may still seep out during the process but at least it is not shooting out allover the place. To be honest, I can't remember which method was doing that, normal hand pumping action bleeding method, or the vacuum bleeding, or both.

Here is the vacuum unit I used. Just a note, it wasn't working for me. Then I took a look at the rubber attachment that comes with the tool which goes on the caliper bleeder nut and noticed there was no hole there (manufacture defect). Poked a hole and it worked great.
www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-...-pump-kit-69328.html

Even in the video below, I would be concerned some coming by and knocking the handle bars and fluid flying all over.

I actually found that brake fluid liked to fly out of the MC with traditional bleeding when I pumped the lever (which is a big part of why I changed to one with a remote reservoir). When I was reverse bleeding I found the fluid in the reservoir just filled slowly. Either way, setting the reservoir cap on loosely and keeping some soapy water handy are definitely good to do!

I just squeeze, hold, then open the bleeder let the air out, then repeat. It takes FOREVER but works. Or if I don't want to do that, I will zip tip the MC with the cap loose and leave it over night and let the air work itself out.

...Or if I don't want to do that, I will zip tip the MC with the cap loose and leave it over night and let the air work itself out


explain....?

missionkz wrote: ...Or if I don't want to do that, I will zip tip the MC with the cap loose and leave it over night and let the air work itself out


explain....?

I assume the same thing I mentioned tying the lever to the handlebar and leaving it for a while. Bubbles will eventually rise to the top and out of the system. It also helps to tap the lines to coax the bubbles loose.

Shimmy wrote:

missionkz wrote: ...Or if I don't want to do that, I will zip tip the MC with the cap loose and leave it over night and let the air work itself out


explain....?

I assume the same thing I mentioned tying the lever to the handlebar and leaving it for a while. Bubbles will eventually rise to the top and out of the system. It also helps to tap the lines to coax the bubbles loose.

Yeah, same thing, I didn't see your post lol. I had a really squishy front brake. An old timer told me to zip tie it shut over night to stiffen it up. I thought he was crazy, but turns out it actually works pretty darn well.

I'll be trying it tonight.

I am scanning your thread. I owned one of these when it was brand new. I had a very similar noise after about a year. It turned out to be the vacuum diaphragm in the fuel petcock.

Drove me crazy at first, I kept adjusting the valves. lol

I had no money and a good friend who was the local tech. he listened to the bike, pulled the diaphragm out of the petcock (it turns into a manual when you do that)..25 minutes later..no noise.

Tk11b40,
I am going to have to look into that further! Thank you for the mention!

So guys, the brake problem has been solved! It was the throttle's fault. Lever just didn't have enough room in it's lack of arch to make it past the throttle clamp on the handlebar. You can see the difference in the pic now.



I wired the front brake electrical send early this morning. Definitely crunching things before the big day. Really wanted this thing done and out of my hair a month ago. That said, now that all the brake electrical is done, the rear brake light suddenly has given up the ghost. Indicator on the tach shows signal. No rear light.

I wish I had a pic handy of the start button that's know hidden under the seat on the wiring tray.

This bike makes me drool some days which I think is perfectly okay .