TOPIC:

Randombeat,
Because I did my own pan and foaming (which should in theory work but I'll let you guys all know soon ride wise), I was able to keep things cheaper at $200 CAN. However, if the shop is doing the foam for you, if you did a double French stitch seam on the side (I did a single), and have a more expensive marine grade material, you could anticipate more of a ballpark of $400. Most that I have talked to were surprised I got it at the price I did. Be sure to share pics when yours is done!

In other news, today had progress! 3 cans of engine degreaser later... (Yes even the heavy duty gelling stuff!)

Overexposed while drying in the sun:

In reality:

Batman be proud haha
Also...

And the ceiling diffuser turned out awesome!!

It's so close I can taste it!!! But not literally but yes literally... You know what I mean.
Some might wonder why no wiring tray yet? Well, template number...3 didn't survive to see another day. Working on it. I have a ticking clock that's getting even closer. Sucky part is next place doesn't have a garage...

Just a slight tease . Progress is good.

A number have told me to get on with it and get my 440 done. I'm with ya. A big thing in my mind has been the engine. It's now ready and on the rolling cradle ready for the frame. The tank is now finished and boy oh boy did it turn out I feel! Tonight however, the story goes to the wiring tray/ pan. I don't have a breaker press fyi . This is the mark 3. It is holding a lot more promise already!



You'll notice the line 3/4" down from the top edge on the tray. That will be bent later after fitting onto the bike. I may or may not go through with that. For now, I have the option. The wiring tray will scoot under the seat framing and bolt to the old airbox holes meanwhile the rear will sit just above the rear hoop. Now that the cardboard template worked properly, the aluminum 1/8" gauge should too eh! Oh I hope this optimism doesn't nip me in the hiney.

Looking good, there bosh. In my opinion, from a noob to a noob your progress is faster than mine? A tip for making bends for ya. If you're using thing gauge steel or alloy, score your line(s) then bend it keeping the score inside the bend. Or if you wanna get crafty, you can go to your local steel mill or what not and grab some 1/8" steel angle and make your own press type tool.
Sorta like this..


Keep up the progress.

ed

Ed, right on! I did score the breaker bends before bending. The problem on my end is my breaker haha. Wide bill vise grips and 1/2" angle to extend your bite only does so much. Thanks for sharing that bend press pic! I've got a few ideas that direction for the future. I'll keep plugging along! Hey Tig, how would you do the seams on 1/8" aluminum like you see in the pics? I'm debating on JB Weld or paintable caulking? Still unsure.

It finally happened!

Man does it feel good to have the engine back in the frame now. I like progress!

I made this up for bending the aluminium sheet for my undertray and tail light bracket. Very easy and effective. I used a circlesaw to cut inside the bends 1/3 of the thickness of the plate. It made for far cleaner bends.




Bikes coming along.I like the red and the engine came up well.What did you use?

Davido, I really like that breaker press! The handles and clamping system are bang on what I'd like to have at some point myself. Thanks for sharing and kindling some further ideas!

It felt a little dirty putting new kawi decals on the tank compared to the light metal badges that are original but the finish is what I am going for. The engine was painted and clear coated with duplicolour engine gloss black and clear. Full cure will come after the engine runs at temp for a bit. Honestly, I prefer the duplicolour over vht in hindsight but I'm more concerned about riding than nitpicking at this stage. I just took my palm sander to the top fins on both sides of the engine to add that silver accent then clear coated overtop. I'm pretty happy with the finish . Wiring tray and seat will be next. I have to redesign the hinge setup if I am using the original hinge mounts and lock with the new seatpan. You know I'm loving this!

I mentioned the seat hinge earlier in a post. Tonight I got the itch. I am unsure if this has been done before but 1/4" steel rod has made a fantastic platform for me to build from now.

I need to find clamps, or something to attach the rod to the aluminum seat pan now but I now have a properly hinging platform using the stock hinge pivots on the frame! Next up will be arranging the lock tubing (3/8") once the seat is set.

sorry for the late reply on your question bosh. Personally, I'd weld it, otherwise the silicone would be next. The jbweld will more than likely start loosing it's adhesion to the alloy expanding/contracting from ambient temperatures and flexing cause it's really thin. If you didn't do it yet, try to find "silicone II" made by ge. Strong stuff, I used it 4 years ago building my reef aquarium and sump.

Lots has happened since I last posted!
The rear end has taken shape. Custom aluminum work out of a small sheet of 1/8 one side clear anodized has yeilded mounts for the taillight, signal lights, license plate, and plate bolt LED's.

The wiring tray has taken shape. Thanks Tig for your input on the glue. I ended up using PL Premium which setup very well for the main box seams and then a combination of 100% lepage all purpose epoxy as well as extra strength super glue on the tight seams around the battery box mounting to the wiring tray. That super glue is gnarly stuff for precision tight fits!! As a glazier, I've had access to aluminum curtain wall cutoffs which helped with the battery box (4" box mullion w/ the top cut out). 1" glazing track made the rear light assembly.

I mentioned the seat hinge idea earlier. Now I say it worked out! Put all that's been said so far in this post and viola!

With the battery box sitting just forward of the rear tire, the wiring tray and battery box effectively replace that old plastic fender. I thought about using the old chrome fender end with the light and plate mount but the bike finishes up nicely without and the plate mount basically acts as a rear fender. I think it cleans up nicely!



Incase you wondered, yes I did do a happy dance to mark such an occasion. It was very fitting lol.

The wiring tray ended up fitting snugly between the opposite upper rear shock mounts. With this and the bend in the frame as flush points, really, the zip ties are only secondary. For any wondering, I do have a template for the wiring tray and battery box. Yes I can make it available. I'll get the bike on the road first and trouble shoot a few things setup wise before sharing though in an effort to not pass on unnecessary headaches to anyone.

Boy am I loving this.