new to me 1978 KZ 1000

Pod filters or stock airbox. If pods you need Air Corrector Jets fron Zed1015. It will clean up the lower end.

Mikaw wrote:

Pod filters or stock airbox. If pods you need Air Corrector Jets fron Zed1015. It will clean up the lower end.

I've read about Zed's air connectors. But this an out right bog, not a hesitation that Zed's connectors fix. If I read it right!

 

His correctors will correct a lean bog caused by pods. Pods make the low end lean because of the extra air they allow in. Sometimes people increase the pilot jet to try and compensate. Could also though be a rich bogg. What jets sizes are in the carbs. If factory carbs they will be 26mm with fuel pilot screws on the bottom between the carb and engine. Pilot settings are whatever makes the engine idle best. Could also be float levels too high or too low. Here is the factory spec for your carbs

 

Thanks Mikaw
I know the main jet is a 110 now , cause I wrote it down! But didn't on the pilot jet.
When I reassembled the carb I set the pilot jet at 1 1/4 turn out.
You could very well be right about the float height. I can smell gas when I try to fire it up! So good chance it's flooding?!
Looking at the Clymer Manual. To measure the float height, invert the carb and measure from the carb casing to the top of the float. Correct!?
I know there's a good write on the forum. I'll have to check my reading list.
I'm not sure how the bike ran when my friend parked it. Unfortunately I can't ask him any more.
Running with air pods, should I set the needle jet to factory setting (#3)? Or should I lower the clip to raise the needle?
 

Back when I ran double air cleaners one for each side with the foam elements they looked sexy but I had to run larger pilots to avoid it falling on it's face at takeoff. Miller told me I was washing out my rings that's why it smoked and burned oil to put the air box back on. Changed the pilots to 17's also. I did that and it stopped. It would bog in high winds with them also. With the VM 29 and 33's you can change the air jets to get it gnats ass but the float level needs to be right also. Best way to do that is with the clear tube method. 
Steve

First take that Clymer and use it under the side stand to stand the bike more upright. Then follow this method to set floats. I built a stand and use an old lawnmower tank. It takes time and patience but it’s easy. 

 

Here’s my setup.

 

Nessism has siad you can cut the clear tube into a point and thread it into the float bowl threaded hole. Never tried but I believe it would work

SWest wrote:

Back when I ran double air cleaners one for each side with the foam elements they looked sexy but I had to run larger pilots to avoid it falling on it's face at takeoff. Miller told me I was washing out my rings that's why it smoked and burned oil to put the air box back on. Changed the pilots to 17's also. I did that and it stopped. It would bog in high winds with them also. With the VM 29 and 33's you can change the air jets to get it gnats ass but the float level needs to be right also. Best way to do that is with the clear tube method. 
Steve

I'm going to get into the carbs this weekend, hopefully!
I was thinking it was running lean because of the air pods.
But it may be running rich, due to the fuel level, you and Mikaw mentioned.
I know the main jet is a 110. Pilot jet I don't know. I'll have to check.
I was thinking to back to the stock air box. But they seem to be like hens teeth, and never got a chance to dig around a salvage yard before winter set in.

 

LOL I'm guessing you don't have any good to say about the Clymer manual!?
Thanks for the service manual write up.
Is that from a Kawasaki service manual?   Is that available, here on the forum? I had a quick look before replying to your post, but....
That's a nice set up for working on carbs. I can't tell in the pic, what you're using for a float level gauge. If it's on there!
I'll give Nessism's idea a try!
BTW the petcock was changed to On Off RES instead of the primer type. It shouldn't make any difference, Right? Accept to make sure I shut off the petcock after every use, incase it leaks!
Conrad

Here’s the link.   www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf

The clear tube is in place on number one carb. These carbs have a drain nipple that is controlled by a screw. You put a section of aquarium pump line on the nipple and open the screw. This fills the tube and you can see float levels. See screen shot of float level tool. They’re available but pricy. I’d try the Nessism trick. He say cut the hose to like like a pencil and you can thread it into the threaded drain screw hole. 

 

Mikaw - I'm almost ready to bench sync and set float levels and I've been planning how to make a fixture.  What I've pictured in my head (an ability useful as a draftsman especially before CAD when we did it by hand on a large drafting board) is similar but I like yours better.  Do you have holes for the carb throats to set the sync from the cylinder head side ?
Thanks for the ideas.