First KZ project…. 1980 KZ1000

Ditto on Steve, bot of your posts are right, you will not be able to shift to second and neutral position is correct. Also don't pull the shift shaft out by accident, you will drop the shift forks in the case, a minor problem if the case is bolted up Good luck, follow the manual. R

Can anyone tell me if this looks like the proper amount of engagement depth on the dogs for a stock KZ tranny?
I have only worked on two other trannys and both were undercut by MRE and the engagement was a bit deeper than in theses pics.

What do the faces look like?
Steve

They look good, it shows that it engaged like that before. The edges show some rounding but I don't know how to judge. All the wear marks are similar to the tranny I removed when looking at the rounding . The faces show the original tranny may have had better engagement.
What is significant as far as rounding and engagement?? Seems I would need to see a few more to get comfortable....
My guess is I'm over thinking it :silly:

They look good from those pics. R

Awesome!
Thanks
Being unsure sucks ... gota love places like this where help is at hand!

R I see your in western Wisconsin great place great roads great towns
Love it over there.

Yes, WI is a great place! Ron

on my 1981 KZ100 J1 you can shift from neutral and 1st gear but not any of the higher gears without the bike moving. You Tube video link from a motorcycle Technical School attached below to explain why. Let me know how you make out but looks good from your pictures. Well worth the watch. Hope it helps, it helped me out of a jam. Let me know. jon

Things are going well but SLOOOWWWW , not a lot of time to dedicate to the project but thats how it always goes for me.
I did get it to shift through all the gears, if I spin it back and forth by hand very quickly and lightly turn the shift drum at the same time it will go into second then third, forth and fifth.
I need to seal up the cases and get the oil pump and oil pan and various other bits and pieces in... then back in the frame,
Then move to rebuilding the carbs, getting the brakes bleed and making sure they are working properly and a new chain and tires.
Once thats all done and its running and on the road I will assess the forks and shocks and see how well they held up over the years.

Quick question before I button up the oil pan
Oil gate or no oil gate??

Why not? I will when I put my new crank in.
Steve

JOE MKII wrote: Quick question before I button up the oil pan
Oil gate or no oil gate??

If there is more power then normal, even a small amount, put the gate in you won't regret it. Don't forget if you do it now you won't lose but if you don't and that oil light keeps coming ON the sump will have to come down.
I made that mistake with my GPZ, it wasn't hard because the engine doesn't have to come out but it was a pain because I had to work under the engine