76 KZ750 B1 Twin

Bowman wrote: Truly the stock side covers on the 750Bs are a crime against design IMO.

+1

I'm "retroizing" my GPz with E side panels a direct fit. I'm going to modify them slightly by the time I'm done to get a look more like yours.

Is there a write up on your keyless system?

Not sure what you mean by write up. I got mine from Spiegler.

spieglerusa.com/gauges-instruments/elect...d-ignition-lock.html

It comes with a manual that's not great but it does the job. Odd, because it comes from Germany and it's not cheap.I found this YouTube that does a pretty good job of explaining how it works and how to install it.



HTH

BMW had a recall years ago on the K100's. There was a problem with current going through the steering head bearing and ruining them. . The fix was a ground wire running between the handlebars and the negative battery terminal. I've made that mod to all of my bikes for 30 years.
Nice work, these old twins are cool projects.

those 750G/LTD covers look great on there. i never did like the 750B covers myself. did they fit in the B side-cover holes?

DoctoRot wrote: those 750G/LTD covers look great on there. i never did like the 750B covers myself. did they fit in the B side-cover holes?

The G side covers snap right on. They only have 3 prongs so you can nip the bottom front tab off the B frame if you wish.

It lives!

Fired right up on the second attempt on the starter button after sitting in the garage for 18 years. Amazing.

It will only idle at half-choke so far. Time to drive myself crazy dealing with tuning it especially with the dreaded pods. Good thing I'm only 61, good chance I'll be able to ride it before I die.

When I fired it up it didn't have the LT side engine sprocket cover in place and it tossed the rod that depresses the clutch out onto the floor then barfed some motor oil out onto the floor through the hole the rod came out of (I think). This a problem or is it fine as long as the sprocket cover is in place pushing the rod into the case?

There is a ball bearing behind the push rod. as long as that didn't fall out you should be fine.

First things first I took it for a shakedown ride with the pods on and so far so good without any heroic jetting measures. Little bit of burbling out of the exhaust while decelerating. Haven't tried anything like highway speeds so far however.

Couple of questions about my Frankenbrakes however. Recall I put dual front disks on versus the stock single disk. When I give it a good squeeze I get a wobble on the bars. I'm guessing that's because the calipers are unevenly bleeded? Relatedly, when I switched the calipers to behind the forks the bleed screws are no longer above the caliper cylinder. Do I need a vacuum bleeder thingy?

Not sure if it helps in particular in your situation, but you could try reverse bleeding by adding brake fluid to the calipers with a syringe and taking the excess out of the master cylinder; I found it worked better than regular bleeding when I replaced my lines.

you can try bleeding the calipers again but a wobble while braking is commonly a sign of warped rotors.

if you find the rotors are warped I highly recommend True Disk. Mike did a great job on three rotors for me at a very reasonable price.