thanks guys. i currently don't have photos for the factory tube or bearings. i have the sleeve at work with the pivot bolt for measurements. im not disabling the bike just yet until i get most these part squared away plus i want to ride the DGR. I just ordered another kz pivot bolt to give to the machinist, and also ordered another OEM ZRX needle bearing (92046-1111) which will replace the ball bearing inside the right side of the ZRX tube.
i will have a sleeve that runs the full length of the pivot tube with the OD of the OEM ZRX sleeve and the ID to except kz pivot bolt. i will most likely have top hat style bushing turned as well to run on the left side of the tube just like the ZRX runs inside the grease seal.. i will let you guys know when progress is made

e

do you have a picture of the tube/factory bearings?

working on an idea for the pivot bolt solution on my kz750 with a zrx1100 swinger. i know the the kz swing arm runs with four needle bearings(two on each side) and a sleeve between them. im wondering if i can get away with removing the ball bearing in the zrx pivot tube and replacing it with another needle bearing , then machine a new sleeve that run the full length of the pivot tube (instead on stoping at the ball bearing with the OD of the zrx sleeve and the ID on the KZ sleeve. thus retaining my OEM pivot tube bolt. Any thought or concerns? links to diagrams below.

www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1981-kawasa...e/o/m150570#sch87217

www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2000-kawasa...c/o/m149508#sch77886

Changed the oil and filter, took off the engine sprocket cover and scraped off the thick layers of muck. Thought my engine sprocket was loose but I guess it's supposed to be able to wobble a bit? Adjusted my clutch while I was in there. It drags a bit with the clutch in but apparently That is normal too!

Tightened the chain, had to move two whole tick marks on the swing arm to get it within spec....rear sprocket isn't looking too hot so going to order new ones, should probably get a chain at the same time?

Trying to decide on sprocket tooth counts for the front and back. I heard these 6 speeds can be a bit short geared for highway cruising so might as well remedy that now.

This is not realy a project but restauration to its original. Finished today....

Kawasaki KZ 1100 J 1982.
Charm of previous years, muscle bike of 80s in original! European version generates 100KM and powerful torque. Presents the best engineering of its time and belongs to family of Muscle Bikes that conquer hearts of all bikers world wide.
Kawasaki looks as if She left the factory yesterday, only 56kkm original mileage and engine in perfect condition checked by professionals (compression in each cylinder equal like new), valve clearance adjusted and very best quality synthetic ester graphite engine oil Xenum 10w60 filled up.
ENGINE: All sealants were checked and changed for OEM, bolts, nuts, washers all polished stainless steel, new spark plugs, new coil wires, whole engine glass blasted, carbs checked adjusted and synchronized.
WHEELS: glass blasted, branded new tires, bearings re-greased, sealants changed,
SUSPENSION: front forks with new OEM sealants and new oil, glass blasted, rear shocks KONI completely renewed and like new condition, powder coated
FRAME and OTHER: frame powder coated, swing arm powder coated, rear gear glass blasted, side stand, central stand powder coated, all together 50 parts powder coated. Seat powder coated and new foam inside. All bolts stainless steel or chromed.
TANK: professionally treated with (Fedox, Fertran, Tapox) ani rost treatment and painted inside with fuel resistant painture. Outside original Kawasaki paint No. 307.
ELECTRIC/HARNESS: new battery, harness redone and coted, speedo and odo powder coated and polished with LED warning lights.
BRAKES: caliper painted with heat proof paint, all new sealants and brake pads, partially steel coated wires, master cylinder powder coated with new sealants. Brake discs like new professionally refurbished.
EXCHAUST: front pipes polished, endtopf heat resistant powder coated, stainless steel clamps.
I was trying to bring Kawasaki to its original look therefore all parts are OEM without any changes. Of course some small differences can be found but I make ready everything for use maintenance free for the next 30-40 years.

doctorcat wrote: curious: where did you find the bushings for it? Tempted to make my own at this rate...

I'm not sure if your asking me but i removed the stock swingarm and fit a ninja 250 swingarm. I used existing Ninja swingarm bearings and just made custom spacers for correct fitment.

curious: where did you find the bushings for it? Tempted to make my own at this rate...

Scirocco wrote: He can use the bottom torque link,push or pull torque it is the same force effect.

Not true. I suspect you haven't looked at the swing arm and disk brake setup. (See image below.) There's no way I can see that one could attach a torque link from the disk brake caliper bracket to the bottom of the swing arm without some serious modifications to things. Notice the bracket has the mounting point for the torque link on the right hand side and the torque link runs from that mounting point to the top / forward part of the swing arm. I see no way to run it to the bottom of the swing arm. Even if one was to hang that caliper bracket facing down instead of up the mounting point would then be facing the rear of the bike rather than the front. Ed

Swing arm is all nice and shiny waiting for new bearings to be installed, I got those and a bunch of other parts from partzilla

I used some threaded rod and a couple of sockets to fit the new bearings
Swing arm fitted