Hi how you doing .. this is my kz build . how it more or less was when I got it altho, I had taken the four foot high sissy bar off and the vetter fairing before that pic . i built mine with zx9r 1995 front end and zx9r wheels . I also fitted a gsxr 600 swing arm from 2003 .. of Couse a lot more mods then listed .. one thing people make the mistake on with kz resto mods is not enough ground clearance so watch that esp if you like to ride hard .. im looking forward to seeing more of your project as you move on with it .. im just starting another one .. I bought a bare frame from a breakers yard and just fitted a zrx1100 front end in the process of finding all my other bits .. keep us updated with your project

Thanks for the tips guys.

Plenty of things to try then! Got lots of time to work it out, and part of the fun in projects is thinking of creative solutions, so I'll work something out. Worse comes to the worst, I'll get another swingarm and cut out the existing one. Seems a bit last-resort, but if needs must, no big deal.

There is a tubular sleeve between the bearings that's likely corroded and stuck to the shaft. That's why you can rotate the shaft but can't get it out. If the swingarm has a grease fitting I'd pull that out and squirt some PB Blaster or similar in there and give it a chance to work. Worst case cut off the swingarm and buy a replacement from ebay. They seem reasonably cheap.

I've just got hold of a KZ550 LTD frame, with the swingarm still attached. I noticed that there is a swingarm shim missing (going between the swingarm and the frame) on one side, and as a result when you grab the swingarm, it can be rocked a bit. So the swingarm has to come off, to put a new shim in there, and (now) to replace the swingarm bearings.

I've looked at the blowup diagram and it's a standard, very simple swingarm pivot. The nut comes off on one side, and then there's nothing to stop it from being drifted out. However, I've run into a problem. This pivot absolutely defies me, and doesn't want to move. I guess this is probably because a lack of grease has caused it to rust to one or both of the bearings. I've hit it with lots of PlusGas (a good UK equivalent of PB Blaster) and with the blowtorch on both sides. So I moved to the hammer and started bashing away, with a block of wood to protect the threaded end of the spindle. Didn't work. I didn't have a bigger hammer, so I moved over to a big brick, and have been bashing away with all the strength I can muster, and also trying to squat while hitting it (moving body weight vertically to add force to the blows).

I've stopped because I'm now pretty scared, with the amount of force I'm using. The swingarm now creaks (it didn't before) when moved up and down, so I suppose a bearing is damaged. What worries me is damage to the swingarm and the frame. At the end of the day, if I destroy the spindle it doesn't matter, I can get another. But I don't want to damage the frame or swingarm - that would be stupidity.

Any suggestions on how to proceed? Am I good to go, with even more brute force and ignorance until it comes out? What do you think about a little dab of arc-welder to both ends, to heat-shock some of the rust free?

GSXR 600 swingarm dropped right into my frame.

In fact,this is a list Leon made when I was looking for a suitable swingarm;
97-03 gsxr 600 (no upper brace)
92 gsxr 1100 (no upper or lower brace)
those should install much like the gs arm.

these will take some modification but have been used on kz's in the past (and present)

99-07 busa needs upper brace removed(possibly lower brace added)
03-04 zx6/636 needs the pivot machined narrower
01-05 fz1 needs the pivot machined narrower

The Whale brand chain tools I got right from Japan. Back in the days where price did not matter to me. I was addicted to motorcycles and racing them back then. I would give up buying food so I could buy more motorcycle go fast parts!!! I would hit all my friends houses for dinners 4 or 5 nights a week so I didn't starve!!!

I did find a pretty decent priced chain tool that works on 630 sized chains. BikeMaster part number 01-630. That is a Tucker Dist brand part. Your local dealer should be able to order it for you too!!!! Tucker used to be one of the largest distributors for motorcycle dealerships. I have been out of the industry for like 15 years now so I don't know how big they are now compared to like Parts Unlimited. The retail price I saw on Ebay was anywhere from 104 dollars to 126 dollars. It looks like it does both cut and rivet chains. So you don't have to buy two different tools.

I used to ride my bikes as hard as I could. Every time we went out riding it was basically a race., not a cruise for miles at the speed limit. I used to like the 10 or 15 mile top end runs down Highway 41 topped out in 5th or 6th gear. Then peel off down the twisty side roads and rode them just as hard as we did on the track!! I had two clip master links come apart as I went through the gears. Both times I bent every valve in my motor as it revved off the tach face. I was very lucky both times I lost the chain, it never put a hole in my cases!!! When it happened on my GSXR750 besides tearing the top end down. The end of the chain destroyed the tail section, the inner fender, the chain guard, and the engine chain cover!!!! All big buck parts on the Limited Edition GSXR!!!! Plus it gouged the hell out of the swing arm too!!!

I WILL NEVER EVER PUT A CLIP TYPE MASTER LINK ON ANY MOTORCYCLE I RIDE, OR BUILD!!!!!
END OF QUESTION!!!!

The Bikemaster chain tool kit part number 01-630

Many "rivet links" have a hollow tip in the pin and a relatively cheap chain tool can be used to flare out the pin. If you have the old style pin where you need to peen over the actual pin that requires a heavy duty type chain tool, sometimes specific to the type of chain being used. One alternative is to remove the chain and peen over the link with a hammer and punch. You'll have to remove the swingarm to reinstall the chain, but that's not too bad and it will give you a chance to grease the bearings in the pivot!

Hi guys. I have a question about what's involved in the process of converting a 550 from shaft drive to chain drive.

The engine I have in mind is my 1983 Kawasaki GT550 (a bike widely sold in the UK, which is mechanically equivalent to the KZ550 Spectre shaft-drive model in the USA).
I haven't decided to do this, but I'm entertaining lots of different ideas at the moment. There is nothing wrong with my bike.

Supposing someone were to decide to do this, and lining up the chain and swingarm weren't an issue, would there by anything wrong with this plan:
1) Remove engine from bike.
2) Take out all the crankcase retaining bolts from above and below, but leave the head and cylinder block in place, and remove the shaft drive gear assembly.
3) Tilt the engine upside down.
4) Pull off the lower crankcase half from underneath, and take out the output shaft.
5) Put in an output shaft from a chain-driven 550 (I checked, and the output shafts for the chain-driven 550s all have the same part number).
6) Bolt it all back together.
7) Attach a front sprocket, and sprocket retaining clip.
Fabricate a side cover from sheet steel, and attach it.

The reason I'm asking this is, I've read conflicting info about this on the internet. Some people say that the only difference between the shaft and chain 550s is a longer output shaft on the shaft ones (to allow the damping cams inside the shaft drive gear to go on).
However, others say that a shift drum from a chain 550 would also be needed. It's a bit confusing because I understand there are differences between the 550s and the bigger fours, but I'm not sure what they are.

It would be enormously helpful if anyone could clear things up. I've got the workshop manual and have read everything relating to the transmission and final drive. The manual doesn't say it's possible to split cases while leaving alone the top end. Also, looking at pictures of the output shaft on these shaft-driven bikes (Kawasaki part number 131281043), it's tempting to assume that it might be possible to fabricate a length of tubing, and use it in conjunction with a locking washer, to stick a sprocket on these output shafts. The normal way to install a drive sprocket on chain-driven Kawasakis is to use that backing plate and a sort of circlip. But would it be possible to do that using the longer output shaft that the shaft bikes have , and would it line up with the rear sprocket correctly (if those people who claim that the only difference between shaft and chain bikes is the length of the output shaft, then it should be possible)?

I'm just thinking about possibilities for future projects. Many thanks

So, what should have happened in June happened only in September. Yesterday I finally finished rear wheel. I placed second order for Excel 18″ 2.5″ high shouldered rim as soon as I became sure that first perfectly fits modified hubs of Honda CBX550. Central Wheel Components, UK, fulfilled my order very fast, only few days after its placing. Unfortunately, parcel with second rim arrived into Ukraine in the midst of vacation season, August. It cost me three (3 !) additional weeks of waiting, including two weeks of customs clearance. To release parcel which price exceeds customs limit receiver has to pay tax. I had to call customs three times just to get from them that amount of tax.



However, enough about sad things. After I received second Excel rim I did with it exactly the same things as with first: polished and spoked. As usually I did spokes adjusting and tightening on wheel installed on its place. This time it was swingarm. And as usually, I used two dial gauges attached to swingarm in point of shock absorber mount.



This time adjustment went even better than with the first rim. I managed to get 0.3mm for both lateral and radial runouts (including the zone of welding seam).



Assembled wheel looked gorgeous:











I was ready to put the tire on the wheel.



Now, as both wheels assembled, I could breathe a sigh of relief and say that one third of Kawasaki KZ650 is finished.

Hey lads,

Im still pretty green here and still have a lot to learn about these beautiful old girls so by all means pull me up if I say something wrong
I have 2x 79 KZ1's. Ones turboed and the second is a half scratch built ST

The first one I acquired was the turbo which had been parked up for 10+ years in a chook shed and in very poor condition and been left in mine now for probably another 5 :S This was built back in the 80's and from what Ive heard was based on a drag setup but used on the road. Apparently it has Mtc forged rods and pistons and a welded crank? From the outside it has a big Rayjays turbo, Austin 1100 carb and water injection using god knows what vehicles fuel pump


The second one the guy had a pretty cool vision but ran out of time & money etc. So this is an ST (shafty) frame for the wider swingarm pivet point which has a 2010 R1 swingarm, 2010 Zx6r forks, Ducati Sport Classic spoked wheels and GPZ1100 body work and more. In the photo thats an 1100 engine but since gone)


And the MERGE


I really dont know which way to head with this thing and totally understand this will be a ground up rebuild but most the funs in the build and have plenty of time on my hands after my recent accident that might be the end of my road riding days ...... for now!
I love building one offs so I want to keep things pretty close to the original styling but stray a little if you get what I mean. Bigger brakes, tyres and suspension are a must (I love racefit builds)
Do I mod up the engine with later model gear ie turbo, carb, fitting etc or try keeping it period, water injection, copper fittings etc?
I know this will possibly get me shot but I kinda dig the gpz tank and tail

Let us have it, what are your guys thoughts?????
Im not 100% sold on the R1 swingarm so any suggestions (if anyone has a chunky spondon lying round hit me up )