Well, got it back from the sandblaster, got it in primer and did a test fit of parts to throw in a 9 inch extended swing arm. Things have come to a screeching halt do to a move to bigger shop. It doesn't look like I'll be riding the 4th of July. As soon as the move is done, it's back to the KZ. Thanks for watching guys....

Sure I'll post it for you.
www.powersportsuperstore.com/Race-Tech-C...Emulat-p/4058233.htm
These fit a lot of the Harley models, I think that's why they were set up with the heavier springs. Such a small and simple part, but what a freaking difference over the dampening rod factory set up.
Don't forget to replace your steering head bearings, have a close look at the swingarm pivot bearings also. I replaced all of the above. Also under braced the swingarm while it was off. Tried the Progressive rear shocks, with a couple of spring rates and while they were decent enough, I ended up switching to a set of FOX Racing Shocks. They are 14" instead of the 13.5" eye to eye, which made it a bit easier to get on the center stand when the Vetter Bags are packed on.

I'm doing a rear swap on my bike soon, I'll have the full rear end off. Swingarm, wheel, brakes, shocks. Do you need just the wheel, or the whole deal? My bike is the '78 C2 model, spoke mags

Devin

Picked up the 600 swingarm yesterday. It needs some cleaning/polishing, but it'll make the whole process MUCH quicker to do the swap. Hopefully some shop time this upcoming week over an evening to get things started. Pictures will follow

When adjusting chain slack, owners commonly use the crude rough markings on the swing-arm to align the rear wheel.
A more accurate alignment within the swing-arm may be achieved by confirming equal distance on both sides between the swing arm pivot bolt and rear axle (measured between center-points).
Such alignment should also result in perfect alignment of the sprockets so that the chain runs straight and true between the sprockets.

Ideally, when the bike is rolling straight forward, the center-line of the rear tire will overlap the center-line of the front tire, but overlapping tire center-lines isn't critical, whereas perfect alignment of the sprockets is critical.
Many fat-rear-tire bikes, including factory showroom models, don't have overlapping tire center-lines. But they are all supposed to have perfect sprocket alignment.



Good Fortune!

FYI- Hayabusa USD forks are 30" long.

THANKS ........I measured my original KZ fork and measeures 29" from centre axle to top of triple clamp so this is the dimension I will be looking for. I haven't got the GSXR parts bike home yet to measure the forks.

This fork, GSXR 1100

Gives me about

4 and one half inches ground clearance at the lowest part of the header.

Yes, the 750 forks were about 1 inch shorter. Now on the 1990 model I am not certain, but I think it is the same. The 1100 had the clip on's mounted above the top clamp, so the fork tubes were just a little longer.

I started with 750 tubes, then found 1100 tubes (fork). If you already have a 750 donor bike, I would use the 750 forks, and keep looking for a longer set. They are identical other than length. this is of course assuming the 750 forks you have are actually shorter than the 1100 forks.

The "Bandit" series has the longest set of forks out there, and they are near identical to the early GSXR forks. Same diameter.

Use the forks you have to mock up the bike, while searching for longer ones.

There are a few guys on the forum who make triple clamps for other members. I cannot think of the names right now. You can also put an offset in the lower clamp, to raise the bike an inch. It is more expensive, the machine work is not cheap.

Bolt_Upright wrote: Thanks a million. I NEVER would have identified that perusing catalogs. Does that mean this swingarm is probably from the same bike?

not necessarily......
yours does not look like a swingarm from an ex 500.....as that brake is used on other bikes. hth :S