Search Results (Searched for: gs swing arm)
I'm back! was created by badboie
11 Dec 2014 08:59
badboie
I use to be a frequent flyer here at this site back in 2006. That goes to show how long I've been away. Why? I dont really know why. I've recently started to get back into the KZ build and I happen to remember thus site and how much it helped me in the past. With my first KZ build done, I feel it's time to start anew. This new build will be a bobber build. I'm thinking of using the same bike. I'm just not into the "Fighter/Naked bike" look as much anymore. I still appreciate a well built bike no matter what style it is but I feel I need a more gritty bike... That's kinda my taste with stuff now lol, rat rods, bobbers, old beetles, VW Vans... You get the gist.
So a little update since the last time I was on back in 2006. I meet this girl. Turns out she liked me enough to put up with me and we got married in 2010. I couldn't be happier to be honest, she is perfect. Likes all the same stuff I do, which is awesome. We ended up moving to Arizona in 2012 to figure ourselves out. Kinda thought we needed to learn what it was like in a place were we had no friends or family and start new. Its been tough but we have managed. I feel we have both grown up since the move. Learning how to do things without the support of family, you learn quick what's important in life and the things you use to take advantage of. Still no kids but maybe someday...
So that was the quick and easy on my last 9 years of life. Now back yo bike talk. Below are some up-to-date pictures of my bike. As you can see the transformation from a 1981 KZ750 LTD to what it is now it dramatic. Its got a custom seat, ZXR swingarm, Kerker exhaust, Bual cowl and dual headlights, completely rebuilt engine, eBay bought blinkers, and little stuff here and there.
I've been having troubles keeping the battery charged while on a ride. I have come to the conclusion that it might be the headlights pulling too much charge from the battery and it drains it. Would this also cause the bike to die if the battery is completely dead? I figured that the generator would generate enough charge that the battery wouldn't be used while driving it. The last few times u have driven it since the headlight swap I have gone from a full battery to an hour later the bike dies and I'm stuck on the side of the road. Anybody might have an idea if what's going on, shoot me you thoughts. Anyways check out the pictures. Glad to be back!
So a little update since the last time I was on back in 2006. I meet this girl. Turns out she liked me enough to put up with me and we got married in 2010. I couldn't be happier to be honest, she is perfect. Likes all the same stuff I do, which is awesome. We ended up moving to Arizona in 2012 to figure ourselves out. Kinda thought we needed to learn what it was like in a place were we had no friends or family and start new. Its been tough but we have managed. I feel we have both grown up since the move. Learning how to do things without the support of family, you learn quick what's important in life and the things you use to take advantage of. Still no kids but maybe someday...
So that was the quick and easy on my last 9 years of life. Now back yo bike talk. Below are some up-to-date pictures of my bike. As you can see the transformation from a 1981 KZ750 LTD to what it is now it dramatic. Its got a custom seat, ZXR swingarm, Kerker exhaust, Bual cowl and dual headlights, completely rebuilt engine, eBay bought blinkers, and little stuff here and there.
I've been having troubles keeping the battery charged while on a ride. I have come to the conclusion that it might be the headlights pulling too much charge from the battery and it drains it. Would this also cause the bike to die if the battery is completely dead? I figured that the generator would generate enough charge that the battery wouldn't be used while driving it. The last few times u have driven it since the headlight swap I have gone from a full battery to an hour later the bike dies and I'm stuck on the side of the road. Anybody might have an idea if what's going on, shoot me you thoughts. Anyways check out the pictures. Glad to be back!
Replied by 650ed on topic Greetings from UK
10 Dec 2014 14:56
650ed
Welcome aboard! Here's some information you should find helpful.
Many newbies and not so newbies run into or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation or information. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.
Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.
MANUAL
You really should consider buying the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.
The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various KZ650 models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.
TOOLS
WARNING! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.
I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.
I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:
www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89
Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.
PICTURE 1
PICTURE 2
PICTURE 3
PICTURE 4
PICTURE 5
Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.
Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.
MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.
There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.
Good luck with your bike. Ed
Many newbies and not so newbies run into or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation or information. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.
Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.
MANUAL
You really should consider buying the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.
The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various KZ650 models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.
TOOLS
WARNING! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.
I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.
I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:
www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89
Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.
PICTURE 1
PICTURE 2
PICTURE 3
PICTURE 4
PICTURE 5
Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.
Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.
MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.
There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.
Good luck with your bike. Ed
Replied by tucsonKZ1kP on topic Custom KZ1000 Police
10 Dec 2014 07:19
tucsonKZ1kP
K.D. HART wrote:tucsonKZ1kP wrote:K.D. HART wrote: Any pics of the build, while you were building it?
Yessir, I have gobs of them. I will post more here real soon. Any part of the process you're interested in specifically?
As a matter of fact, yes.
I've been playing around with a updating a Z1, but never considered a cop bike. Yours turned out real nice.
1. What if any mods had to be done for the swingarm to fit on the KZ1000P frame? (Not the mono shock mounts)
2. What did you have do for the duck bill (tail piece) to fit?
3. How is it and the seat mounted?
1. Swinger was just customs bushings and notching the frame to allow the chain to be in a straight line. Only other thing that was special was a stepped out front sprocket to align itself with rear sprocket to account for the 190 tire.
2. Duck bill was pretty straightforward. Once we chopped the frame in the rear, you could easily place the duckbill on the frame and slide it forward or back to try and get the best look. (See pic)
3. See pic.
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Replied by ramtough_63 on topic Triple tree custom work
09 Dec 2014 18:55
ramtough_63
Attachment 100_6635.jpg not found
Bolt on gull-wing design complete with gauge mounts & steering stops
Plug-n-Play Les Holt
Attachment WP_20140519_017.jpg not found
19" wheel conversion
Plug-n-Play Les Holt
Attachment WP_20140330_001.jpg not found
1/2" 520 offset counter sprocket
Plug-n-Play Leon 531blackbanshi
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03 zx6 rear swing-arm
narrowed with bushings
Plug-N-Play Leon
Attachment green_2014-12-10.jpg not found
I have 100's of pics of their work
pure art!
jcw
Tig worked fine. 7 gas lens, ck flex loc torch, 1/16 tungsten, .040" or 1/16" filler depending on gap, +/- 60 amps with the foot pedal.
Ran into the ocassional outgassing or blow out cause i didn't drill vent holes.
Bolted the crankcase and swingarm before welding and tried to do short segments at a time alternating sides to minimize distorsion.
I'm far from a professional weldor but the welds turned out halfway decent. Between the braces is one of the blow outs.
Ran into the ocassional outgassing or blow out cause i didn't drill vent holes.
Bolted the crankcase and swingarm before welding and tried to do short segments at a time alternating sides to minimize distorsion.
I'm far from a professional weldor but the welds turned out halfway decent. Between the braces is one of the blow outs.
Custom KZ1000 Police was created by tucsonKZ1kP
07 Dec 2014 22:32
tucsonKZ1kP
My father and I decided to transform a 2000 KZ1000P into a modernized street bike. The bike has modern forks and a modern swingarm from GSX-R and ZX6R motorcycles. It also has keyless RFID ignition, LED headlights, BMW M3 paint, and 2002 GSX-R 1000 wheels. The only original things from the police bike are the frame and motor. The motor has been bored out and is now a 1075 CC.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Replied by Yamaha_chop on topic 1980 kz440 USD and monoshock conversion
07 Dec 2014 11:29
Yamaha_chop
Swing arm is stock with a brace I welded on, the shock is from a Buell 1125.
So I'm getting really close now, almost all of the fabrication work is done. A few little things to do here and there, like actually mount the tach
I built some mounts so I could use a Buell 1125 front fender, welded up the exhaust using stainless bends, mounted the front headlight and turn signals, made the battery box mount, not sure if you can see it in these pictures but its mounted under the swing arm pivot. A bunch of other little stuff, but anyway on to the pictures. I'll start with my favorite one first...
Not the best lighting in some of these photos. Anyway getting closer. I'm trying to have the bike ready by mid February but we will see if I can do it.
Let me know what you think so far....
So I'm getting really close now, almost all of the fabrication work is done. A few little things to do here and there, like actually mount the tach
I built some mounts so I could use a Buell 1125 front fender, welded up the exhaust using stainless bends, mounted the front headlight and turn signals, made the battery box mount, not sure if you can see it in these pictures but its mounted under the swing arm pivot. A bunch of other little stuff, but anyway on to the pictures. I'll start with my favorite one first...
Not the best lighting in some of these photos. Anyway getting closer. I'm trying to have the bike ready by mid February but we will see if I can do it.
Let me know what you think so far....
Replied by floivanus on topic Easiest way to get engine in and out?
03 Dec 2014 19:27
floivanus
Strip front end/swingarm off lay engine/frame on side, shake frame off of the engine. Then to put together lay engine down and slowly lower frame into place.
Removal/reassembly is easier though if the top end is off, that way you can leave the frame sitting the right way and just place it together piece by piece (bottom end/trans- pistons/jugs then head and cam cover.) and reassemble the engine in frame
Removal/reassembly is easier though if the top end is off, that way you can leave the frame sitting the right way and just place it together piece by piece (bottom end/trans- pistons/jugs then head and cam cover.) and reassemble the engine in frame
KZQ
Below the box where you enter the text of your post is an "Attachments" box. Click add file and then browse till you find the pic you wish to display, Then click the submit button and your picture will be displayed as a thumbnail. To view the thumbnail just click on it and the full size pic will display. Your problem may be with the file size. The upper limit is 2 megs, don't remember the pixels by pixels limitation just now. If you click the insert button your picture will be inserted in your post and will have to be downloaded every time someone else opens your posting. I added some pics of an exhaust baffle in your posts above. Each of you can edit them out.
Hope this helps.
Bill
Hope this helps.
Bill
z1000j gearbox swop to kz1000 79 was created by deanbyron
01 Dec 2014 00:55
deanbyron
Hi there peeps.
Have not posted in a year. Well to start off.
Happy festive season to all of you guys and as the winter begins our summer is at hand.
I would like to ask 2 things?
1. On this forum there was a guy porchec914 who did a swing arm swop. Is he still available on the forum. Got the same arm and would like to chat to him.
2. On the two engin the output rasio differs between the 1000j and kz 1000 79'. So if I want to install the 1000J gear box into the kz 79'would it work or could I just transfer the loose gears from shaft to shaft? I have the 79 KZ motor and will be running out of revs due to the fact that the wheel that I have the smallest sprocket is a 42 were as the KZ motor needs a 33 and the J motor needs a 41 on the rear.
Please help. Would like to do the swing arm swop.
Have not posted in a year. Well to start off.
Happy festive season to all of you guys and as the winter begins our summer is at hand.
I would like to ask 2 things?
1. On this forum there was a guy porchec914 who did a swing arm swop. Is he still available on the forum. Got the same arm and would like to chat to him.
2. On the two engin the output rasio differs between the 1000j and kz 1000 79'. So if I want to install the 1000J gear box into the kz 79'would it work or could I just transfer the loose gears from shaft to shaft? I have the 79 KZ motor and will be running out of revs due to the fact that the wheel that I have the smallest sprocket is a 42 were as the KZ motor needs a 33 and the J motor needs a 41 on the rear.
Please help. Would like to do the swing arm swop.
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