Easiest way to get engine in and out?

1985 GPZ750

My basket case is now stripped to just the engine with engine mounts removed. What is the best way to get this thing out with minimal damage/scrapes/scuffs to the engine and frame (especially after I have the frame powder coated, and engine painted) ?

Strip front end/swingarm off lay engine/frame on side, shake frame off of the engine. Then to put together lay engine down and slowly lower frame into place.

Removal/reassembly is easier though if the top end is off, that way you can leave the frame sitting the right way and just place it together piece by piece (bottom end/trans- pistons/jugs then head and cam cover.) and reassemble the engine in frame

Put a blanket on the floor (I use a shipping blanket ) lay the bike on its side on the padding, take the last of the engine mount bolts out then lift the frame up and off the engine. When you put it back together after power coating try using water pipe insolation the cheep black stuff from Lowes to protect the frame. Engine on its side, drop the frame over the engine. Tip it upright and go from there.

Thank you for the tips sirs. Any idea which side I should lay the bike on to make it easier?

Lay the engine on it's clutch/ignition side .

Laying the bike on its side and lifting the frame is barbaric and a pita IMO, also it takes two people.

I have done 3 engines in the last couple years by my self and have been perfecting this method, sorry I have not taken more shots.

It works best if you take the oil drain plug and filter plate off first.

...and if you are planning to split the cranckcases, you may find it easier to loosen off the primary shaft and clutch centre nut in frame, locking the motor via the back wheel. Use an air tool here- shake it off rather than metre long socket lever. They are very tight.

Removing the cam cover as a minimum helps on the twin shock GPz, never done a zx yet.

I have a steel threaded rod about 30 inches long I stick thru the top rear motor mount holes and a 30 inch wooden dowel ( broom stick ) that fits tight between the 8 exhaust port studs and secure the broom stick with a tie down strap wrapped behind the head for when I don't want to lay my bike on its side and this works great. Adjust the rod as needed to clear rear frame brackets Sorry no pictures but its simple and works great and gives you complete control on the motor as you guide it between the frame rails which I also pad with foam and tape wrap.

Hope this helps
Dave

If your going to tear down the head, do it in the frame. The block is much easier to handle this way. Never tried the lay down method. I don't think I ever will. Some good ideas. Like they say, "necessity leads to invention."
Steve

Correction. Necessity is the mother of invention. I guess I'm having a senior moment. "What a drag it is being old".

I use the Engine on it side method with a few modifications. As mentioned above, clutch side down with Ignition and housing removed. Also remove oil filter cover, drain bolt and cam shaft cover. This gives a little more clearance. I position the engine on a plastic milk crate. This allows access to insert bolts from the bottom. I'm working alone, and my back ain't what it used to be so I cheat and use an engine hoist. After positioning the engine, I hang the frame and lower it around the engine. 30 minutes by myself. Without the hoist, you'll need an helper to lower the frame.

bluej58 wrote: Laying the bike on its side and lifting the frame is barbaric and a pita IMO, also it takes two people.

I have done 3 engines in the last couple years by my self and have been perfecting this method, sorry I have not taken more shots.

It works best if you take the oil drain plug and filter plate off first.





Exactly the way I did it and it worked great. Was even easier with the wife and son helping.