TOPIC:

I don't know if you are aware of this book:

store.motolit.com/cafracof19mi.html

Classic cafe styling and looks and positioning, but with modern upgrades to make the bike handle better.

For example, I like modern forks, but on cafes I prefer not to see inverted forks. I think it's too aesthetically modern for the bike. Now, on my current bike I am building (my 650) it's kinda a hybrid bike (I believe Justin tabbed it the "cafe fighter" ) and this may get an inverted front end. I've got a front end off of a 86 ninja, but that might go back onto the ninja. Only time will tell.

Right on... I'm cafeing my Z1. Yeah yeah I know some people think that's rape but it's MY bike, and I like it a hell of a lot better now than when I got it. I have done mostly 'period' stuff with the exeption of the rear shocks.

STAGE 2

Okay, now we're onto the cutting. I LOVE THIS PART!

Use a hand rotary tool. I recommend this black and decker one if you need one. They are cheap, and if you buy it at home depot and break it, they will replace it.

Also, get some Dremel fiberglass reinforced cutting discs. They are GREAT!

Okay, so here's the tool.





I seriously hope you guys enjoy these posts... cause I enjoy making them!


Now, you use the discs and go around and cut on your lines. A few pointers:

LESS IS MORE! Don't force the discs down into the metal. Apply a small amount of force and let the disc shave it down until a cut it made. If you push you an snap the disc... and eating one of these chunks at 12K RPM's hurts! haha

LOW SPEED RULES! Don't use mid or high speed. The metal gets hot and starts to burn. When you heat metal you change it's properties. You're already gonna heat it welding, so try to keep it under control guys.

Here's a shot of the cut started:



And here's me being pretty pumped.




Caferul around those corners! I recommend not trying to make a continuous cut... rather make a bunch of small cuts on there. You bend that wheel and BAM! Snap and you eat it.

Anyhow, once you get all the way around you can cut along the base. Don't plan on cutting the bottom of the tank just yet. We're gonna stencil this with posterboard and then we'll mark it for a cut!


Here's what the final product looks like, with a little grinding on it to make the edges dull.




As you can see, if you take your time and stencil well in step 1 the pieces are nearly identical!




I was lucky in terms of things, because the inside of my tank is damn near perfect!



SOME FINAL SHOTS:






Oh, and someone had asked about using the scrap panels. Here's a shot of why it won't work. It'd be less hassle to just make new ones.



Post edited by: twowheeledterror, at: 2005/12/22 21:00

Oh, some other things.

Wear a hanky or a respirator if you want to be safe about things. It's not gonna kill you not to, but it helps. This produces a lot of dust. I'm kinda used to smelling and tasting metal all the time from welding, but it may not be so easy to adjust to for some people.

Also, gloves help. Cuts are no fun... and neither are festering slivers from metal.

Thanks again for the post about things Chet. I reread it and suddenly realized... I may be young and stuff, but the people who razz me aren't exactly making posts showing how to do things like cut and weld a tank, are they?

I may be young, but I know what the heck I'm doing, and I don't mind showing you guys how to do this stuff too.

Looks like it's bondo time. Now the true art prevails.

fonZee wrote:

Looks like it's bondo time. Now the true art prevails.

Bondo? We don't need no stinking bondo!

We need a shot bag and a body hammer, some band saw action, sanding and some TIG welding... and then LOTS of polishing!

May I suggest then, polyester resin and peroxide. And grind away.

Looks great!

There's a Cafe racer fuel cell on ebay right now: Cafe Fuel Cell

after a lot of good tack welds followed by skipping around a bunch of short welds and some carefull grinding there shouldnt be much need for plastic,just a little metal finishing!bondo shouldnt be used on corners anyway it will chip/flake to easily.do you pressure test the tanks yourself?i usually take that kind of stuff to radiator shop to check it.allmost forgot i know two wheel knows this but just make sure if your cutting/welding on a gas tank to make sure it is well flushed out it doesnt take much to set off gas fumes,a lot of people get killed by igniting gas fumes!good luck,happy wrenching!

Post edited by: wireguy, at: 2005/12/22 23:38

Hey TWT, I'm enjoying the thread to. Rock on dude!

wireguy wrote:

after a lot of good tack welds followed by skipping around a bunch of short welds and some carefull grinding there shouldnt be much need for plastic,just a little metal finishing!bondo shouldnt be used on corners anyway it will chip/flake to easily.do you pressure test the tanks yourself?i usually take that kind of stuff to radiator shop to check it.allmost forgot i know two wheel knows this but just make sure if your cutting/welding on a gas tank to make sure it is well flushed out it doesnt take much to set off gas fumes,a lot of people get killed by igniting gas fumes!good luck,happy wrenching!<br><br>Post edited by: wireguy, at: 2005/12/22 23:38

Yesiree... I'm welding this up in school, so I'll be dipping it first to get rid of any other gas in there.

I'm gonna tack it up on a 1/2 by 2" pattern. (1/2" of weld at a time every 2") to keep it from warping out badly. (This is of course after spot welding things into place). As long as it's welded properly I might not even elect to really grind it much. TIG welds are gorgeous. Might just polish it all up after the TIG is done.

But yeah, we have an auto shop in school (I go to a tech school) so I have access to that shop to check for leaks too.

I'm glad everyone likes it so far. As Justin said, this is a backup tank, but for now I'm definitely having a good time on it.

I'm not an expert or anything, but wouldnt it be smart to remove the gas on/off thing before you would cut the dents out? Isnt the inside peice plastic?
Annie