Kz750 rebuild 2.0

Mikaw, I am aware that it isn’t in the best position right now. However without the Speedo in place I can’t see if it will cause any issues. Once the speedo is put in place, I will adjust the gear housing to tilt in the best way for the cable. It isn’t currently driving right now, so not a big deal for now. But I do appreciate the advice!

R1, it was actually like $37 for the removal, fit, and balance. But I asked them to replace the valve stem. Which of course was metal so that was an up charge of $5. After taxes it came out to like $44 plus change. 

wrote:

Mikaw, I am aware that it isn’t in the best position right now. However without the Speedo in place I can’t see if it will cause any issues. Once the speedo is put in place, I will adjust the gear housing to tilt in the best way for the cable. It isn’t currently driving right now, so not a big deal for now. But I do appreciate the advice!

The cable is supposed to exit the housing pointing straight back, parallel to the ground.  I can't remember, but thought there was a feature on the fork which engages with a matching feature on the cable drive housing to orientate the housing correctly?  

Nessism, do you have a picture? You are probably correct however I have always had it parallel to the forks. There is a holder for the cable coming off the fender.  seen in the red circle.

blue square is for the brake hose. Should have a rubber grommet 

green square is to fix the speedo cable. No grommet. 

Learn something new everyday. I guess one of the previous owners lost the grommet so I’ll add that to the list of things to buy from Z1. I will definitely correct the gear housing tomorrow. The cable always did seem a bit long. Thank you once again gentlemen. 

I’ll look to see if I find assembly instructions for your bike. On my big fours you assemble the axle and wheel. Mount the wheel into the fork, with the speedo housing pointing to 6:00, then loosely attach the axle clamps. Before tightening the axle clamps you rotate the speedo housing CCW till it stops (the two tabs will touch). Then torque the axle nuts, then the axle clamps. 

wrote:

R1, it was actually like $37 for the removal, fit, and balance. But I asked them to replace the valve stem. Which of course was metal so that was an up charge of $5. After taxes it came out to like $44 plus change. 

Wow, that's expensive, My friend has a tire machine, so I use that when necessary.  Generally though It doesn't cost  that much to get car tyres done here In Australia and everything here is usually more expensive.  Is that normal for a bike tire ?  Actually, the last time I bought bike tires the tire shop fitted them for free as long as I took the wheels to them...

Pretty typical price around here. I am glad I have a friend with a changer.

We only really have one shop around here that really works on motorcycles/powersports. Unless you have a Harley, we do have quite a dealership in my city. Since they are the only shop, they can kinda charge what they want. 

Made some decent progress on the bike today. Removed the case guard, bent it back so it’s all straight, removed all the sharp edges and have it a new coat of paint. It came out quite good compared to what it was before.