Kz750 rebuild 2.0

As far as the ignition cover…
Kinda safe to say it’s pretty unrepairable. Add that to the purchase sooner rather than later list.

I looked back at the speedometer gear housing and found a peg on the left fork, like y’all said there would be. So I got that moved around and how it should be now. Ran it through the routing thing on the side of the fender and it looks very clean now. Also took up some slack in the length of the cable. 

Another big day! Today I did my first ever valve clearance job. Measured all valves, then pulled off the cams to measure current shims so I know what to buy. Great news. All valves measured .08mm-.10mm of clearance. On the tight side of within spec but still in spec. This also means one of the Previous owners took care of the bike enough to get the Maintenece done. Put it all back together and got it started up and went on my first ride since the wreck. Also re-timed the dyna ignition system, put on a new master cylinder, and put everything back together including mirrors, headlight, ignition switch, gauges. 

Now that I know the shims that I need to order, I can make my large order from Z1. Shorter throttle cable, clutch cable, 15 tooth front sprocket, 32 tooth rear, 2.40mm shims, valve cover gasket, fork oil. All the good stuff. Still not warm enough to ride comfortably yet but it’s getting out of the 30s around here now. 

wrote:

 15 tooth front sprocket, 32 tooth rear,

Maybe too late now, but you these are the proper sprockets for converting to 530.  

16 tooth front sprocket - JT Sprocket JTF513 series
39 tooth rear sprocket - JT Sprocket JTR488 series
530 chain 102 links long
 

Nessism, it is not too late however I decided to keep the 630 chain since it only has 2000 miles on it. Basically new. 

Say I’m sure some of you gents have had this issue before. My forks aren’t aligned anymore. It’s not horrible but It is also noticeable. whats the best way to straighten them. The forks don’t appear to be bent and they don’t have any scratches on them from the fall so they couldn’t have been impacted. 

Get your manual out, loosen everything and re-tighten all in the sequence called out in the manual 

wrote:

Say I’m sure some of you gents have had this issue before. My forks aren’t aligned anymore. It’s not horrible but It is also noticeable. whats the best way to straighten them. The forks don’t appear to be bent and they don’t have any scratches on them from the fall so they couldn’t have been impacted. 

I had that happen when a friend put my bike down.  As soon as I loosened the top and bottom triple clamps the wheel moved back to center.  It seemed like the fall twisted the fork tubes in the clamps.  Releasing the clamps let everything settle back into place.

Although I will mention that the front tire on that bike developed a scalloped pattern on one side of center after a while, so it seems like something remained tweaked a bit.  But I couldn't see anything.

Aligned the forks, put on the replacement handlebars and she’s back to pointing where I want to go now! Got a lot done today. My Z1 Order came in, super happy with the customer service from them. I will no doubt be purchasing from them again. I got my shorter clutch cable(TU06-3030) and installed it, it is the perfect length for the superbike style bars. The throttle cable(TU06-3112) is also the perfect length and very well made. The replacement rear sprocket is also on, no upgrades here just maintenance. The front sprocket is the sad story. I was hoping to put a 15 tooth on the front, a sizable upgrade from the stock 13 tooth. However the 15 tooth makes contact with the clutch push rod and the chain guard brackets. 
So I have sent Z1 a return request, let’s see how easy or hard the return for this sprocket will be. I will be purchasing a 14 tooth with the hopes it will work, if not my 13 tooth is still in good shape. 

Also got the tachometer and indicator light cluster in the mail this week. It came in rough cosmetic shape but inside the gauge it was pristine. I opened it up to put my LEDs in it, give it nice coat of paint, and give everything a good cleaning. Here’s some before and after pics. 
Before
After
Before
After

I am super happy with how these came out. My goal for tomorrow is to top off the fork oil, get my return sent back to Z1, and possibly install my valve shims just to make sure everything is top notch. 

wrote:

The front sprocket is the sad story. I was hoping to put a 15 tooth on the front, a sizable upgrade from the stock 13 tooth. However the 15 tooth makes contact with the clutch push rod and the chain guard brackets. 

So I have sent Z1 a return request, let’s see how easy or hard the return for this sprocket will be. I will be purchasing a 14 tooth with the hopes it will work, if not my 13 tooth is still in good shape. 

That why the conversion to a smaller chain and sprockets is the way to go, same strength or more if you want, less weight, and more room to fit bigger sprockets. I'm running a 17 tooth front on my 750....

wrote:

Say I’m sure some of you gents have had this issue before. My forks aren’t aligned anymore. It’s not horrible but It is also noticeable. whats the best way to straighten them. The forks don’t appear to be bent and they don’t have any scratches on them from the fall so they couldn’t have been impacted. 

A bit late, but just to add to what Mikaw and DOHC said, after you tighten up the bottom triples and before you tighten the front axle and top triples, grab a handfull of front brake and compress the front forks. This straightens everything out - including where the fork leg floats on the axle.

EDIT: On the 750E the clamps on the bottom of the fork legs should be loosened when this is done (just enough to allow the forks to slide on the axle) - the axle can be torqued up. On the 750H (just saw that you have one of these) torque up the axle but make sure the clamp bolt on the right hand fork is loose.

Another edit: Nice work on the tach