TOPIC:

Are you planning on making folding pegs for these? I thinking that I'm going to be needing a set of these bad boys for my project Z1 and I really want to keep the kicker useful, mostly for the old school look.

Chris

Les,

So, I did my install today. It was very straight forward, however I did have to use an 11/32" drill bit to slightly ream the brake lever clevis pivot hole. The ZX14 rear master stock clevis pinwas just too large to fit through. It was a nice tight, but free to pivot fit. The spacers appear to be made from some inch tubing? They seemed to have plenty of clearance on the ID compared to the stock studs. I don't think it will be a problem, but just thought I would mention it. I am about 5'-11" and the pegs are very comfortable, but high enough to give a cafe' racer feel. I noticed my heel tends to ride/rub on part of the rear master, so I may make a guard for it.

Here are some pics:







Now considering the discussion about bending the kick stand, with the offset in the bracket with the spacers, the stock kicker wouldn't even clear the peg bolt provide even when you remove the peg, but perhaps you could do enough of a bend...hmmm



Cory

The studs provided for the caliper are long enough to put a shield and nut on, that was the idea of leaving them long. Right now I'm looking at moving the master over and using a heim joint to attach the master piston to the side of the lever, that should move it over plus using a little bigger spacer on the brake lever to get the toe part out even with the clutch cover, Yes, No?
What do you think?
Also, on the size of the hole, I've got 4 chassis here to mock up on, I'be got one that is powder coated and at that size it's still a little tight but I can take it back to the 12 mm size if that would serve for a better fit in the end
Also, how's the brake pedal angle for ya?
Another also, did I not ship the button head 6mm bolt on the shifter for the linkage?

Les

[quote="les holt" post
Also, how's the brake pedal angle for ya?
Another also, did I not ship the button head 6mm bolt on the shifter for the linkage?

Les[/quote]
It would be nice to have some up down adjustment on the brake lever but it works just fine for me.
The only thing I can think of is perhaps an adjustable mounting plate to help with fine adjustments like front to back up and down. Just my 2 cents. I love mine Les.

les holt wrote: The studs provided for the caliper are long enough to put a shield and nut on, that was the idea of leaving them long. Right now I'm looking at moving the master over and using a heim joint to attach the master piston to the side of the lever, that should move it over plus using a little bigger spacer on the brake lever to get the toe part out even with the clutch cover, Yes, No?
What do you think?
Also, on the size of the hole, I've got 4 chassis here to mock up on, I'be got one that is powder coated and at that size it's still a little tight but I can take it back to the 12 mm size if that would serve for a better fit in the end
Also, how's the brake pedal angle for ya?
Another also, did I not ship the button head 6mm bolt on the shifter for the linkage?

Les

Les,

Yeah the sockets should be long enough for like an 1/8" plate guard to be bent up and attached with them.

As far as moving it out, yes you can do that, but I don't like the idea of the heim being in single shear with the brake lever pivot. You can move it out, but I don't think it would be a huge deal. I will say now that the kick starter probable can't be utilized, might be better to have the forward mount master, although it is probable too late to go back now. Would resolve the foot contact.

The angle of the lever is OK, it took some time to find a decent balance between the shifter and brake levers. I may cut the end of my master cylinder's rod off a little short, as to drop the lever to optimum, the end of the rod hits brake lever pivot tab. Perhaps the master should be moved away from the lever about 1/8" - 3/16" to give more clearance.

Yes, you shipped it with a 6mm SS, button head, but I needed a 6mm x 25mm for the shift lever, and they didn't have stainless button heads, so I got a standard socket head. Then, because I am anal (I said ANAL) I bought a second one so they match. In addition, I used nylon lock nuts at both points.

Cory

Les,
Why will the master cylinder not work behind the peg mount instead of on the outside where your foot sits?

Je77ekz1000a wrote: Les,
Why will the master cylinder not work behind the peg mount instead of on the outside where your foot sits?

Due to the factory clevis not lining up with the brake lever pivot tab. Would have to mount the left of the pivot tab, which means the joint would be in single shear, not double shear like the factory. Not sure if it would be a huge deal, but...

Cory

Je77ekz1000a wrote: Les,
Why will the master cylinder not work behind the peg mount instead of on the outside where your foot sits?

Due to the factory clevis not lining up with the brake lever pivot tab. Would have to mount the left of the pivot tab, which means the joint would be in single shear, not double shear like the factory. Not sure if it would be a huge deal, but...

Cory

Just figured the part could be machined with the pivot tab on the inside to accept the stock mc on the inside of the peg mount. Just looks like from the overhead pic above that there's room? I don't know...

These pics are from tachrev, don't know, you guys may already be familiar with the thread 1977 kz1000 street/strip project, I just found it.

Yeah those are from a Kawasaki ZRX. I had a set of those and were going to use them until I saw Les's design. Very different setup, but the brake lever is a multiple steel assembly that us welded together which is how they got the lever to pivot tab offset. Would be difficult to machine out of one piece. If you could, the materials would be more costly. Either way it could probable be done, just benefits to cost ratio would need to be considered.

Cory

And do we know if anyone (Les), has done any "perfing", or the "swiss cheese" effect in the pockets?