LED taillight (kz400)

ThatYeti wrote:

Believe you're right that it's a kz400D, as it's got the disc brake and electric start. Bike definitely wasn't 100% original when I got it but pretty close so maybe that was already swapped? Is that something I need to replace to fix this problem?

No, as long as there is "a switch" that activates the brake light then it doesn't matter if it is hydraulic on the splitter or manual on the lever. Sounds like the hydraulic is original.

Also confirmed the brake light still comes on, despite the blinkers being borked at the moment and the brake light failure indicator flashing.

That makes sense, but looking at the diode kit, it's got one straight wire and one with some kind of resistor in the middle. Does each signal light need one? Also I assume it's just the wire with resistor in it that needs to be spliced in but not sure based on their diagram. wrote:

ThatYeti wrote:

Believe you're right that it's a kz400D, as it's got the disc brake and electric start. Bike definitely wasn't 100% original when I got it but pretty close so maybe that was already swapped? Is that something I need to replace to fix this problem?

No, as long as there is "a switch" that activates the brake light then it doesn't matter if it is hydraulic on the splitter or manual on the lever. Sounds like the hydraulic is original.

The switch on the front MC break levler (normaly clutch leveler) could be for the e-starter/kickstand/in gear safety circuit over ride and not to switch on/off the rear break light. It´s very un-common not to to use a in-line hydro switch, i guess.

ThatYeti wrote:

Believe you're right that it's a kz400D, as it's got the disc brake and electric start. Bike definitely wasn't 100% original when I got it but pretty close so maybe that was already swapped? Is that something I need to replace to fix this problem?

Nope. As long as the brakes work and the pressure switch on the splitter is working, just ignore the wires from the switch on the master cylinder.

ThatYeti wrote:

That makes sense, but looking at the diode kit, it's got one straight wire and one with some kind of resistor in the middle. Does each signal light need one? Also I assume it's just the wire with resistor in it that needs to be spliced in but not sure based on their diagram. wrote: That makes sense, but looking at the diode kit, it's got one straight wire and one with some kind of resistor in the middle. Does each signal light need one? Also I assume it's just the wire with resistor in it that needs to be spliced in but not sure based on their diagram.

These are "diodes" (electrical one way valves) not "resistors" and you need to follow the wiring diagram on the website

Wookie58 wrote:

ThatYeti wrote:

That makes sense, but looking at the diode kit, it's got one straight wire and one with some kind of resistor in the middle. Does each signal light need one? Also I assume it's just the wire with resistor in it that needs to be spliced in but not sure based on their diagram. wrote: That makes sense, but looking at the diode kit, it's got one straight wire and one with some kind of resistor in the middle. Does each signal light need one? Also I assume it's just the wire with resistor in it that needs to be spliced in but not sure based on their diagram.

These are "diodes" (electrical one way valves) not "resistors" and you need to follow the wiring diagram on the website

 

Thanks, but the diagram doesn't make any sense to me. Do I need one of the wires with the diodes for each signal light? Where do the two wires even go?  Currently have the two wires off the LEDs connected to the power that was going to the old bulb and a ground. But don't really understand what I'd do with these things.

Not sure why I didn't just search on how to install first, but found a video on it with a better diagram.



Is this correct?

Yes it is correct

 

Thank you, ordered a diode kit from amazon, only because the one from Superbright was going to take a full week to get here but seems near identical so fingers crossed it works, also picked up a better crimper...now that I'm nearly done crimping on this project but at least I'll have it for next time.

While I'm waiting on that what is it I need to do to sort out the lack of 'running lights' in the tail lamp? Do I need to find the switch wherever it's hiding and possibly replace it? Do I need another of these diode kits for it?

ThatYeti wrote:

Thank you, ordered a diode kit from amazon, only because the one from Superbright was going to take a full week to get here but seems near identical so fingers crossed it works, also picked up a better crimper...now that I'm nearly done crimping on this project but at least I'll have it for next time.

While I'm waiting on that what is it I need to do to sort out the lack of 'running lights' in the tail lamp? Do I need to find the switch wherever it's hiding and possibly replace it? Do I need another of these diode kits for it?

As previously stated - find the brake light failure switch, unplug it and forget about it
Measure the voltage on the disconnected red wire with the ignition on and post a picture of your meter and connection points

Wookie58 wrote:

ThatYeti wrote:

Thank you, ordered a diode kit from amazon, only because the one from Superbright was going to take a full week to get here but seems near identical so fingers crossed it works, also picked up a better crimper...now that I'm nearly done crimping on this project but at least I'll have it for next time.

While I'm waiting on that what is it I need to do to sort out the lack of 'running lights' in the tail lamp? Do I need to find the switch wherever it's hiding and possibly replace it? Do I need another of these diode kits for it?

As previously stated - find the brake light failure switch, unplug it and forget about it
Measure the voltage on the disconnected red wire with the ignition on and post a picture of your meter and connection points

Thanks and will that just stop the dash light from flashing? Or will it allow the running light to work too?