Turn signals for dummies

I appriciate the responses but still am nowhere

The newest led compatible flasher had 3 prongs. One being the ground all installed correctly

No flash

So what gives?
Im sure someone has ran a all led set up successfully.

I did notice the flashers come in various models

Perhaps i just got a incompatible model?

Noticible differences were lamp # and i think max watt rating

Which one did you get?

Your earlier photo with cylindrical-looking flasher is the type I show as 2-pin in my notes. That type just has a capacitor and relay. It won't work very well if at all for LED's. There are many kinds of 3-pin flashers now, so it's hard to say which one to get.

It needs to be the kind with a electronic chip inside. That chip detects loads like LED's and will control the flashing regardless of the load. That type requires a third wire be added for ground.

A quick google search seems to indicate a Novita EP35 would be the cross-reference for a Wagner BP7060. I'm not sure if a BP7060 is the same as a 7060, but I guess that's the one I would try.

An Amazon search for the Novita EP35 shows bad reviews for a Taiwan-made knockoff of the EP35, so make sure you get the real deal and not what they (reviewers) are calling a "counterfeit".

I got the ep35 or somethin
Maybe it was el35
Which is a
Electronic led compatable flasher

3 pin
And yes it was grounded etc


Weird thing is
With the mechanical stock flasher
I can get each side to operate they simply dont flash

When i hooked up the 3 pin modern electronic flasher. It didnt even turn the lights on at all when i actuated them with the switch




Maybe i got a dud?


So frustrating

Wish there was more info on the subject

I will totally keep u guys posted so in the future if someone else gets stumped they will have guidence

Its easy to test. Just connect a actual bulb from the middle terminal to ground. The flasher should immediately start flashing.

Do you still have the packaging with a diagram for the 3pin flasher?

I dont i returned it cause it didnt work

It was power,ground and of course turn light

Very straight forward but simply did not work.
.ill keep u guys posted

There is a chance that the LED signals have a high voltage threshold before they conduct any current. This will make the flasher's detection circuit think there is no light connected (which is the same as if the turn signal switch is not activated). That would result in no flash at all, and no light at all, as you described.

This could be the result of LED's being made even more efficient than in the past.

The solution to that is a small ballast resistor (one for each direction, left and right). The resistors would not be full-load resistors like that used with older flashers, but small resistors that use a tiny bit of power to let the flasher know the switch was activated.

I'll see if I can find an EP35 and test it.

Do you have a link to which LED bulbs you are using?

I went all LED's for my turn sigs and running lights. I bought a CHINESE relay made for them and they became erratic. Flash like crazy and as the RPM's changed they would slow down. Jon sent me his with a ground and it helped a bit but I think it is the cheap LED's I bought. I would up putting two regular bulbs in the front with a standard flasher. They work fine now but I lost half the power savings I was looking for.
BTW, the Z1's have only one indicator so the LED wouldn't work there. It would for one side but not the other. Kept chasing my tail looking for the problem. Put a standard bulb in there and cured it. Unlike standard bulbs LED's are polarized. They only work in one direction. On the Z1 the green and grey wires go to the indicator where the later models have two for right and left ( green and grey) with a ground.
Took a while to figure that one out. :whistle:
Steve

You can fix that single-LED indicator problem with a tiny bridge rectifier that could be integrated. Then the LED will work for both directions.

The two-prong flashers using a simple capacitor is not good with LED's. That type usually comes in a cylindrical container like the one you show.

The fully-electronic ones usually come in a rectangular box.

Here are two types: The Wagner 7060 and the Novita EP35, which is supposed to be an equivalent. However they are very different inside and they operate somewhat differently. At least, differently enough that LED bulbs might show the difference in actual useage.

I don't think you will come across too many flashers that are better suited to LED bulbs than the EP35 based on the tests I did yesterday. It is very sensitive at detecting the LED load and holds a pretty steady flash rate for any reasonable load.

The flashers, when they are inactive, put a voltage on the output line. When the voltage gets pulled down by the load (such as when the turn signal switch is turned on) , the flasher completes one flash cycle and checks for load again. If the load remains present, the flasher repeats this cycle until the load is removed. The Wagner unit senses light loads, but the Novita senses very light loads. Either one should work with most standard LED bulbs that just use LED's and current-limiting resistors. If an LED bulb were to employ some other means of current limiting, like using pulse-width-modulation or some other sophisticated method, then the flasher might not detect it.

The solution in such a case is to use a small ballast resistor. This is not the same as an energy absorbing load resistor, but it's a tiny load (high resistance) just to set off the flasher. It will take almost no power but will trigger the flasher.

It only takes two resistors, one for left and one for right. The resistors will simply go from the hot wire to ground for each side. A 10K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor for each side should do it on the Novita EP35, and for the Wagner 7060, you would probably want a 1K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor.


Here is an update of the notes and testing:

The leds are just cheap amazon specials
Unsure the details on them

Are these resistors something i can get in town?
And is there a model or something i need specially?


I was also wondering if the ep34 or different model electronic relay would have different results?


Thanks again guys. Trying to follow you. Im not super advance in electrical however.

Cheers

Yeah, it's very confusing. When I went into Autozone, there were like 4 or 5 relays that looked exactly the same and had the same or similar description. Some cost more than others, so maybe there is some difference, but I bought the EP35 since that's what came up most in my google searches.

The EP35, based on my tests for activation threshold, has about the best chance of working that I can imagine. In fact it worked with one-single little LED.

Are you saying you have an EP34? Or did you mean EP35?
Google search shows the EP34 wires differently than the EP35.

The only way I can really see it not working is if something is wired wrong.

You should do a bench test to make sure your flasher does not work with the bulbs you have. It's pretty easy. You just need a 12v battery a few alligator-clip wires. If the bench-test works, then I'd have to say it's a wiring issue.

If by some odd chance it does need resistors, the resistors are easy to get online. Back in the day, any Radio Shack would have had them. Fry's electronics would have them if you have a store near you, but they tend to carry only one or two of a single item. You would need two. If you have a Microcenter near you, there's a chance they would carry them.

But really, the tests I did would indicate that resistors should not be necessary.

I will draw up a diagram for the bench test.

Bench test for Novita EP35 turn signal flasher.

Man i love u lol in a weird internet fanboy type of way

Your knowledge and help on electrical specially on kzs has been phenomenal


I had the relay ground to ground
And the led bulbs ground to ground (as in frame ground)

Didnt know the led itself needs to be grounded to the relay


So strange


I dont get how the light powers up
If the relay isn't grounded to metal

Hope my confusion makes sense

Thank u again !!