TOPIC:

650Dude, Insight is the best way to recovery.

Yes, a used regulator for testing or a new regulator should solve you voltage problem.

Scirocco wrote: 650Dude, Insight is the best way to recovery.

Yes, a used regulator for testing or a new regulator should solve you voltage problem.

Thanks. Im trying to change my spoiled brat ways. When I re-read your comment I was like "OOOOOOOOOH! This guy isnt just telling me "yes or no" hes giving me the background and variables in the equation that result in a conclusion." Yours was actually the best technique to explain a thing. Full Scope!

650Dude,

Did you follow the instructions in the factory service manual regarding cleaning and adjusting the regular contacts?

And what about the wiring in the system (not just the fuse block)? Did you check each connector and clean them? Clean and reattach the grounds?

You Go Steve !!

Nessism wrote: 650Dude,

Did you follow the instructions in the factory service manual regarding cleaning and adjusting the regular contacts?

And what about the wiring in the system (not just the fuse block)? Did you check each connector and clean them? Clean and reattach the grounds?

Nope. Too cold. This morning it was warm and the temps dropped AND the winds picked up. It was about 33F/1C by 3pm. Too cold. When the regulator and rectifier come I will clean all the connectors if need be, but the innards of the bike are REALLY clean. The fuse box (which was replaced earlier today) was the only yucky part in the wiring system. Im confident the overcharging issue is down to the regulator, and not even the rectifier. Time will tell.

650Dude wrote: ... I did as you suggest and checked the voltage at the REGULATOR ONLY. It was 9.5v and not anywhere near the battery voltage of 12.5v.

I started the bike and AT IDLE it was at 14.8v. At 2k RPM the voltage went up to 15.8v . At 5,000 rpm the voltage was at 13v.

These symptoms do not only indicate a bad regulator. These are the classic symptoms of voltage loss through various connections in the regulator's power circuit. These voltage losses trick the voltage regulator to increase the output to the battery when the battery voltage is already adequate.

Notice the regulator is showing about 3 volts lower than the battery. Let's say for the sake of argument, the regulator is designed to regulate the battery voltage to about 14v. Since the regulator's power circuit has lost 3v due to bad connections etc, the regulator now will try to raise the battery voltage up to about 17v so that when the battery is at 17v, the regulator will see about 14v. But 17v will boil out a battery, and the alternator may not be capable of producing that 17v at all RPMs, so basically the alternator is just maxed out because the battery is taking so much current, not to mention that the ignition is getting highly stressed and every bulb probably wants to burn out.

Now, the regulator does have it's own issues too because it is a mechanical device. It is not capable of fine voltage control like a modern electronic version is, and is susceptible to vibration and pulsation in the electrical system. So I still think you should upgrade to the new regulator you ordered. By controlling the voltage better than the stock mechanical regulator, your entire system will be more reliable, and your battery will have a longer life.

Cleaning or replacing the switch works and/or wiring is not really something you want to mess with on a cold windy day because you want to be able to take your time and be thorough.

The problem with combining all of them the headers will remain but the posts will be staggered as to the times posted. I'm afraid the threads will be corrupted if I do. That's why it's important to keep to one thread for each subject.
Steve

SWest wrote: The problem with combining all of them the headers will remain but the posts will be staggered as to the times posted. I'm afraid the threads will be corrupted if I do. That's why it's important to keep to one thread for each subject.
Steve

Yes, I see what you mean. The different threads will get interlaced. That would be confusing.

loudhvx wrote:

650Dude wrote: ... I did as you suggest and checked the voltage at the REGULATOR ONLY. It was 9.5v and not anywhere near the battery voltage of 12.5v.

I started the bike and AT IDLE it was at 14.8v. At 2k RPM the voltage went up to 15.8v . At 5,000 rpm the voltage was at 13v.

These symptoms do not only indicate a bad regulator. These are the classic symptoms of voltage loss through various connections in the regulator's power circuit. These voltage losses trick the voltage regulator to increase the output to the battery when the battery voltage is already adequate.

Notice the regulator is showing about 3 volts lower than the battery. Let's say for the sake of argument, the regulator is designed to regulate the battery voltage to about 14v. Since the regulator's power circuit has lost 3v due to bad connections etc, the regulator now will try to raise the battery voltage up to about 17v so that when the battery is at 17v, the regulator will see about 14v. But 17v will boil out a battery, and the alternator may not be capable of producing that 17v at all RPMs, so basically the alternator is just maxed out because the battery is taking so much current, not to mention that the ignition is getting highly stressed and every bulb probably wants to burn out.

Now, the regulator does have it's own issues too because it is a mechanical device. It is not capable of fine voltage control like a modern electronic version is, and is susceptible to vibration and pulsation in the electrical system. So I still think you should upgrade to the new regulator you ordered. By controlling the voltage better than the stock mechanical regulator, your entire system will be more reliable, and your battery will have a longer life.

Cleaning or replacing the switch works and/or wiring is not really something you want to mess with on a cold windy day because you want to be able to take your time and be thorough.

My plan is to first change the voltage regulator, swap in the new one and see what happens. If the issue continues I will then start looking through the harness. Ive have this bike for a year now and this overcharging issue only just started. The way I have the bike when its out, it never gets wet and I have have things in place that keep ambient moisture down under the cover.

That said, first in goes the voltage regulator and then I will go from there.

Damp cold weather is hard on everything. Even a new battery can fail in extreme conditions.
Steve

My plan is to first change the voltage regulator, swap in the new one and see what happens. If the issue continues I will then start looking through the harness. Ive have this bike for a year now and this overcharging issue only just started. The way I have the bike when its out, it never gets wet and I have have things in place that keep ambient moisture down under the cover.

That said, first in goes the voltage regulator and then I will go from there.

I like that plan... or any plan that doesn't have me trying to sand down tiny little contacts in freezing weather with wind howling and big can of Deoxit making everything even colder.

BTW, Deoxit is what you want to use. Don't use dielectric grease. That can eventually make things worse.

Also, do you have any idea what changed from earlier today? Earlier you reported the voltage wouldn't go above 12.xx volts, unless I misunderstood what you were saying.

I like that plan... or any plan that doesn't have me trying to sand down tiny little contacts in freezing weather with wind howling and big can of Deoxit making everything even colder.

BTW, Deoxit is what you want to use. Don't use dielectric grease. That can eventually make things worse.

Also, do you have any idea what changed from earlier today? Earlier you reported the voltage wouldn't go above 12.xx volts, unless I misunderstood what you were saying.

In re the change from earlier today, something was loose but I dont know what. As I mentioned, I installed the new fuse box and after that, the system wasnt charging (when I put the multimeter on the battery).

So I unplugged everthing related to the new fuse box, plugged everything BACK IN, making sure all the connections were solid, and voila, I got a reading, but not the reading I wanted:

At idle the bike is nearly at 15v and I saw a 16.5 somewhere between 1k rpms and 4k rpms. Then at 5k rpms the voltage drops to 13k. So yeah, Im going to change the regulator first. I did some internet research and there are TONS of ppl who had the same symptoms, similar readings, all solved by changing the regulator. I hope the rectifier isnt fried. I have one on the way, but still...