TOPIC:

Ive been at work all week and then with the kids after. Not a spare moment.

My rectifier arrived today and I havent a CLUE how to put it on the bike. Havent had time to look. Here is a pic of the old rectifier and the new. How the HELL does this thing bolt on to the battery box or whatever its connected to?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationYou'll probably figure it out after removing the old one & you may have to remove the battery. There's a recessed hole in the bottom of the battery box, so I'm thinking that the bolt goes thru the battery box. But I really don't know.
For stuff like this I check the diagram drawings at partzilla, then search the P/Ns on EB.


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Yep, bolts onto the bottom of the battery box.

Nessism wrote: The charging system wiring is extremely simple. It shouldn't take much work to replace everything with nice fresh wires and connectors.

Regarding the bike in general, since you are getting high voltage on occasion that suggests the problem is most likely the wiring or the regulator. The rectifiers job is to convert AC output to DC and thus it won't cause the voltage variation being experienced. And speaking the regulator, the Kawasaki service manual has a long section detailing how to troubleshoot regulator problems, as well as instructions on cleaning the contacts and setting the gap. It's an electromechanical device and needs occasional maintenance.

Keeping all responses in this thread is better than fragmenting the discussion with 3-4 threads about the same basic problem.

ImSTILL getting a reading of 15.8v AT IDLE! lol

I thought it was the voltage regulator or rectifier so I changed them both (they are separate). After doing all that, today the bike still is overcharging. What might this be attributed to? A ground somewhere?

Thanks in advance

I described this at length. I explained why there was a good chance it would not get fixed with a new regulator. Please see my other posts.

loudhvx wrote: I described this at length. I explained why there was a good chance it would not get fixed with a new regulator. Please see my other posts.

The fuse box is new. I put a new one in.

The regulator is new, I put a new one in.

The Rectifier is new, I put a new one in.

The only thing I havent done is check the wiring along the harness. is there anything else you can think of that I should be checking?

Thanks for your help on this!

650Dude wrote:

loudhvx wrote: I described this at length. I explained why there was a good chance it would not get fixed with a new regulator. Please see my other posts.

The fuse box is new. I put a new one in.

The regulator is new, I put a new one in.

The Rectifier is new, I put a new one in.

The only thing I havent done is check the wiring along the harness. is there anything else you can think of that I should be checking?

Yes, as I've mentioned a few times, you will need to address the voltage losses in your harness and switches.
I also mentioned the Dyna S system is exacerbating the problem. Because it uses more current than the points did, it increases the voltage losses in the harness.
I explained earlier why the problem was not the rectifier.
I also explained why the regulator might not fix the problem.
So it should not come as a surprise that replacing them did not fix the overcharging problem.
But, replacing the regulator is not a waste. The new electronic regulator will work more precisely when the other problems are taken care of, so it will help increase battery life.

You have 5 different threads going on this subject. You wanted to keep everything on the most recent one, but now you are back to the original thread. I suggest you chose one and lock the other ones and post a link on them to whichever one you want to consolidate to. That will make it much easier to avoid all of this goose chasing.

The issue now is to locate the places where the voltage losses are happening. To do that, you identify the path that the current for the regulator takes and measure the voltage along that path, at convenient test points. Wherever the voltage is significantly lower, you look for contacts or connections.

The path, generally speaking is battery, main fuse, ignition switch, brown wire to the regulator. There is a similar, but shorter ground path as well. You will want to check that if the voltage losses don't add up logically. I'm not posting the minute details of this procedure since it's a lot of writing and I want to make sure you understand the situation before I start typing page after page. But once you are ready we can go into detail of exactly what to do. It's quite involved and takes time. As I said several times, you might want to do this in nicer weather.

Also, I'm not sure if you are replacing the harness or not. You would do that first if that's in the plans.

loudhvx wrote:

650Dude wrote:

loudhvx wrote: I described this at length. I explained why there was a good chance it would not get fixed with a new regulator. Please see my other posts.

The fuse box is new. I put a new one in.

The regulator is new, I put a new one in.

The Rectifier is new, I put a new one in.

The only thing I havent done is check the wiring along the harness. is there anything else you can think of that I should be checking?

Yes, as I've mentioned a few times, you will need to address the voltage losses in your harness and switches.
I also mentioned the Dyna S system is exacerbating the problem. Because it uses more current than the points did, it increases the voltage losses in the harness.
I explained earlier why the problem was not the rectifier.
I also explained why the regulator might not fix the problem.
So it should not come as a surprise that replacing them did not fix the overcharging problem.
But, replacing the regulator is not a waste. The new electronic regulator will work more precisely when the other problems are taken care of, so it will help increase battery life.

You have 5 different threads going on this subject. You wanted to keep everything on the most recent one, but now you are back to the original thread. I suggest you chose one and lock the other ones and post a link on them to whichever one you want to consolidate to. That will make it much easier to avoid all of this goose chasing.

The issue now is to locate the places where the voltage losses are happening. To do that, you identify the path that the current for the regulator takes and measure the voltage along that path, at convenient test points. Wherever the voltage is significantly lower, you look for contacts or connections.

The path, generally speaking is battery, main fuse, ignition switch, brown wire to the regulator. There is a similar, but shorter ground path as well. You will want to check that if the voltage losses don't add up logically. I'm not posting the minute details of this procedure since it's a lot of writing and I want to make sure you understand the situation before I start typing page after page. But once you are ready we can go into detail of exactly what to do. It's quite involved and takes time. As I said several times, you might want to do this in nicer weather.

Also, I'm not sure if you are replacing the harness or not. You would do that first if that's in the plans.

Thanks. When the old regulator was in, the voltage on the brown wire was 9.5. Thus, I assume the problem is within the brown wire path?

There aren't that many wires involved. Why not just replace them all and start fresh?

The brown wire at the regulator is the end of the path. The other things I mentioned are also in the path, along with connectors. After the fuse holder, the next most likely culprit is the ignition switch and its connectors etc.

I thought you mentioned something about replacing the harness in the near future. Is that true?

You have 5 different threads going on this subject.

The duplicative threads are now merged into this topic.

Good Fortune!

loudhvx wrote: The brown wire at the regulator is the end of the path. The other things I mentioned are also in the path, along with connectors. After the fuse holder, the next most likely culprit is the ignition switch and its connectors etc.

I thought you mentioned something about replacing the harness in the near future. Is that true?

No, I have no plans at this time to replace the harness. Other than this issue, all seems to be fine. Hmmm. Maybe I should replace the ignition switch though? (after tracing everything out?)