750Steve, I think that sensor is for direct contact to fluid. Not sure how well it will work when it has a air pocket inside its mounting hole. Think of it this way. When that sensor is screwed into a say thermostat housing, and the tip is in a flow of coolant, the threaded body is connected to the metal housing. When the water disappears, the gauge which was reading normal, now drops with no fluid to conduct the heat transfer. Then once the metal gets hot enough, the transfer starts from the metal. By then it is overheating severely. That was why I posted that 1 wire sensor, it is one I'm familiar with, and screws directly into the Cylinder Head on an Air Cooled Motor.
Since the controller needs a two wire sensor, I'd try to find one from an Injected Air Cooled Motor. One for metal heat transfer and not fluid immersion.
Otherwise one way to get better heat transfer may be to have the cavity contain a high temp grease for transfer. Big issue I see with that is the good possibility of creating hydraulic force when tightening the sensor. You don't want that, as it could crack the engine block easily. You would have to be Very careful trying to fill the air space.
You probably read this post: www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=38715
Then there is this also: www.ebay.com/gds/CHT-Gauges-for-Air-Cool...0000007206732/g.html
Sorry!! Just asking the price clarification, didnt intend to confuse things. . Obviously, this is too complicated for me . Guess I'll just keep quiet and stay with Carburetors...sighhhh.....old . At least that's my excuse.
Have 1975 Kawasaki Z1-B & 2003 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail Classic
Had Hondas, Harleys and many ,many Z Series Kaws both Std. & LTD's
Sorry Ed, didn't mean to offend, just didn't want anyone thinking that was a MicroSquirt in that pic. Especially not a $99.000 one
If you're not adventurous, then it's better to find someone that is to do it for you.
There are shops that specialize in installing and tuning various MegaSquirts, and they seem to stay pretty busy.
It's certainly not for everyone, you need to be a decent wrench and electronics tech, to have a good reading ability, and a little patience. Learning curve is a little steep if you're just starting out.
How are the various EFI projects running out there? Looks like a few years since this thread was active, but there is good information in these pages!
I am planning to EFI convert the '83 Spectre 750 project I have with Microsquirt. And Im curious about how others are using crank/cam trigger wheels.
I was initially hoping to purchase a C5 ignition, with the optical trigger setup that looks very nice. But after reading into the Microsquirt manual a 'high resolution' trigger wheel like the one used by C5 is not supported.
I could do a MS fuel only install with the C5 taking care of ignition, they even come with multiple timing maps. But I feel like that would be a half-hearted install vs using trigger wheels and sequential tuning. Going all the way to full sequential means trigger wheels, which could easily go on the crank, but I dont see an easy way to add the needed cam trigger wheel.
Does anyone have experience with fuel-only vs sequential injection install with a squirted KZ? Is it worth the trouble to go all the way for sequential? Not trying to build a drag stripper or land speed bike; driveability and reliability are higher on my priority list than outright power.
1983 KZ750 Spectre - non-running project purchase will need some serious love
2003 KLR 685 - farkled to the max
2016 Versys 650 - mostly stock for mile munching
I like to do a MS conversion on my project bike.
I have all parts twice like a GPZ1100UT throttle body with injectors,fuel pump,wiring, fuel pressure regulator, air/engine temp sensors, etc...
A KZR member called Dave Sloan, his dad did a MS on his KZ650, it is ruining great and the engine start at the first push of the starter button!
I am missing a write up for this like a basis map for the MS and so on....