2/3 Coil only fires half the time!!! RESOLVED :)

OK well it is just harder to see but use your Meter. Put it on DCV and the red lead to the Positive 12v feed to the coil, and the other, black to ground. Run the bike. Again it should read, hopefully above 12v all the time.
then with your Timing light. Hook it up, then go to each plug wire, and shine the light up against something like your fuel tank, so its easy to see. Watch to see if any one cylinder is the problem, if the same on both 2&3, since on the same coil, and 12v was solid. Then definitely check the Primary wiring from the new Dyna to the coil.
Again a test light can help you here, you can make one out of a brake or turn signal bulb, head light bulb. or even the dome light bulb in one of your cars.

I checked the red wires to the coils with engine off and they are 2-3 volts less than the battery. With the engine running, checking them with voltmeter and it jumps around like crazy. So would that mean it's time to rewire the power to the coils? Not sure if that would cause this issue or not?

That is no good. the voltage should be nearly the same. With .5v, take a jumper wire and run it straight to both coils from the battery. Hot-Wire. then try it, voltage should be well above 12v when running across the battery, like 14v and you should be nearly identical with a hot wire.
Oh and where you have your switched 12v source to the Dyna Ignition, that should be right near Battery voltage. Check it also. With the jumper to the coils, the voltage at the Dyna will more than likely rise, when key is on.
It sounds like you have voltage loss issues in your wiring. Common spot is the fuse panel, main fuse, wire and clips. Start testing at the battery and follow the circuit, up towards the Ignition switch. there should be a diagram in "File Base" for your bike if you don't have one.

Motor Head wrote: That is no good. the voltage should be nearly the same. With .5v, take a jumper wire and run it straight to both coils from the battery. Hot-Wire. then try it, voltage should be well above 12v when running across the battery, like 14v and you should be nearly identical with a hot wire.

I guess it's time to be not so lazy and rewire the whole bike... :blink:

clutch wrote:

Motor Head wrote: That is no good. the voltage should be nearly the same. With .5v, take a jumper wire and run it straight to both coils from the battery. Hot-Wire. then try it, voltage should be well above 12v when running across the battery, like 14v and you should be nearly identical with a hot wire.

I guess it's time to be not so lazy and rewire the whole bike... :blink:

Only you can call that one. but it does sound like you have Voltage loss. that can be repaired pretty easily.
replacing some wire, some connectors, and cleaning the contacts in switches etc.
For now try the jump around hot wire to see if your bike runs on 4.

Just to confirm, Dyna-S ignition does not use the I.C. Igniter.

Good Forune!

Motor Head wrote:

clutch wrote:

Motor Head wrote: That is no good. the voltage should be nearly the same. With .5v, take a jumper wire and run it straight to both coils from the battery. Hot-Wire. then try it, voltage should be well above 12v when running across the battery, like 14v and you should be nearly identical with a hot wire.

I guess it's time to be not so lazy and rewire the whole bike... :blink:

Only you can call that one. but it does sound like you have Voltage loss. that can be repaired pretty easily.
replacing some wire, some connectors, and cleaning the contacts in switches etc.
For now try the jump around hot wire to see if your bike runs on 4.

Ok...will try that tomorrow. If that fixes it (wish me luck LOL), I will definitely rewire everything. I've been putting it off for almost a year now from when I originally planned the project. The wiring appears to be all original factory wiring, and there are some minor issues here and there.. I want to replace it all!

Patton wrote: Just to confirm, Dyna-S ignition does not use the I.C. Igniter.

Good Forune!

Yes. While I haven't removed the IC Igniter, the plugs are disconnected from it. Good thought though

Good luck to you on getting it going.
Don't forget there is Two sides to each circuit, the Power and the Ground. So each need good contact/ wire that can carry the Load/ current.
Post back up any/ all results.
It will all be working and you can still get in some riding before the weather shifts colder.

The RED supply wires for the ignition coils comes from the run/stop switch(kill switch) on the right handlebar pod. These older bikes are beginning to show that the solder connections are crumbling, so check all of them if possible. Touch them up with some rosin(not acid)flux and a hot, clean soldering iron tip. A 25 watt iron is about the right size for this.

MFolks wrote: The RED supply wires for the ignition coils comes from the run/stop switch(kill switch) on the right handlebar pod. These older bikes are beginning to show that the solder connections are crumbling, so check all of them if possible. Touch them up with some rosin(not acid)flux and a hot, clean soldering iron tip. A 25 watt iron is about the right size for this.

Excellent point, Mfolks. If the wire is still good and not going to be replaced, strip back 1/2" or so to get a clean part of the wire.

Here's an illustrative wiring diagram showing where to check for voltage drops at various places along the journey from battery positive to the coil primaries.

Likely there's a wiring diagram in the FILEBASE for the specific bike at hand, and which is probably similar.

Good Fortune!