2/3 Coil only fires half the time!!! RESOLVED :)

Ok...so I THINK it's the IC igniter, but I'm not 100% sure I did the tests right. My meter range is 200, 2k, 20k, 200k, and 2m, but the test calls for setting it to 1k or 100. So...if for the 100, I set it to 200, and the 1k I set it to 2k, would that be correct? If not, how do I do the tests properly?

The IC Igniter is supposed to be properly grounded.

If not already done, would check for a good black/yellow wire connection.



Good Fortune!

The only way I could think to check that was red post to pos battery terminal and black probe to black/yellow wire...nice strong 12.43 v dc reading.

I think at this point, I may just end up getting a dyna-s system. I understand that it replaces both the pu coils AND the ic igniter. Would kill 2 birds with one part, and save a load of money if the problem is the ic igniter. What do you guys think?

So now, thinking that it may be the igniter, I am considering giving the LouDVHX igniter option a try before switching to the dyna-s. I'm concerned that the dyna system will draw too much power from my battery for my charging system to handle (which seems to be a common problem among those with the dyna from my forum reading).

On a 4 cylinder, you can use the swapping method to identify exactly what part is bad.

I see you swapped the plug wires and the coil wires. So did the problem stay with the green coil wire? Or did it move to the black coil wire?

(I assume you are using the tach to determine which coil wire (green or black) is firing intermittently.)

If it is always the green coil wire, then it's the green 2/3 circuit in the igniter, or it's the yellow/red pickup.

To determine which, you would have to make some jumpers and jumper the pickup wires to the igniter.
Black pickup wire jumps to yellow igniter wire, and yellow pickup wire jumps to black igniter wire.
Blue pickup wire jumps to red igniter wire, and red pickup wire jumps to blue igniter wire.
Then, you have to pull off the timing plate, and remove the timing rotor. You do this by advancing it, then pulling it off (after you remove the small bolt holding it on). Don't try to turn the big nut. It's actually not a nut, but is just keyed to the advancer hub to turn the crank. Be careful with the bolts on the advancer, they have a history of getting messed up.
Re-install the advancer pointer 180 degrees out from where it started. (Normally, originally, the pointer pointed toward the "TEC" logo.) You do this by holding the advancer arms open, then slide the pointer sleeve over the advancer hub. (Just the opposite of what you did to remove it.) (Hope you have 3 hands. )

Now, if the problem of the flakey tach stays on the green coil wire, it is the igniter that is bad.
If it is on the black coil wire, the problem is the red/yellow pickup.

loudhvx wrote: On a 4 cylinder, you can use the swapping method to identify exactly what part is bad.

I see you swapped the plug wires and the coil wires. So did the problem stay with the green coil wire? Or did it move to the black coil wire?

(I assume you are using the tach to determine which coil wire (green or black) is firing intermittently.)

If it is always the green coil wire, then it's the green 2/3 circuit in the igniter, or it's the yellow/red pickup.

To determine which, you would have to make some jumpers and jumper the pickup wires to the igniter.
Black pickup wire jumps to yellow igniter wire, and yellow pickup wire jumps to black igniter wire.
Blue pickup wire jumps to red igniter wire, and red pickup wire jumps to blue igniter wire.
Then, you have to pull off the timing plate, and remove the timing rotor. You do this by advancing it, then pulling it off (after you remove the small bolt holding it on). Don't try to turn the big nut. It's actually not a nut, but is just keyed to the advancer hub to turn the crank. Be careful with the bolts on the advancer, they have a history of getting messed up.
Re-install the advancer pointer 180 degrees out from where it started. (Normally, originally, the pointer pointed toward the "TEC" logo.) You do this by holding the advancer arms open, then slide the pointer sleeve over the advancer hub. (Just the opposite of what you did to remove it.) (Hope you have 3 hands. )

Now, if the problem of the flakey tach stays on the green coil wire, it is the igniter that is bad.
If it is on the black coil wire, the problem is the red/yellow pickup.

Yes, the problem stayed with the green wire, not with the coil. I will try the swap/jumper method tomorrow to get the answer to whether it's the igniter or the pick up circuit. Many kudos to whomever thought this troubleshooting test up!

Definitely a bad IC Igniter. Now to decide whether to use the Loudhvx mod or swap to the Dyna-s system. Thank you to all that posted replies and helpful advice.

~Clutch

I believe you can build the Loudhvx IC Igniter replacement for under $60. The resistors can be bought at Radio Shack Stores or other electronic supply places.


GM HEI Ignition Modules (4 Pin) Cross Index

AC DELCO

---

DM1906 or D1906

WELLS

---

DR 100

ACCEL

---

ACC 35361/ACC 35367

PERTRONIX

---

D2000

CAR QUEST

---

21040

NAPA ECHLIN

---

ECH TP45

NIEHOFF

---

DR 400

BORG WARNER

---

Select CBE4/CBE22

GM

---

10482820

Mallory

---

607

Jegs

---

555-40600

Moroso

---

97857

Cool. Thanks for the info. I'm just going through my pros and cons here before I decide. If I do the Loud mod, my pickup coils may be getting to the end of their life, and if I do the dyna-s thing, I may have battery drain/charging issues. Why can't this be an easy decision? lol!

The other thing that makes the decision more difficult, is that you bought 3 ohm coils. They are right for the Dyna S, but not quite the ones you want for the factory ignition. For the factory ignition, (And HEI version), you would want the 2.2 ohm (gray) coils from Dyna.

But all is not lost. I use Accel 3-ohm coils with no problems on my HEI version of the factory ignitions (and the 3-ohm Accels are very similar to the 3-ohm Dyna green coils). It will typically only be a problem if you have higher than normal compression, or have the plug gaps opened much wider than stock. And if you really wanted to, you could probably easily sell the green coils, and get the gray coils.

Also, if you really are worried about the money, you could do 1/2 of the HEI mod. That way you only have to buy one HEI module (typically $20 ~ $25) and the two diodes and resistor.

For me, it's a no-brainer,... the HEI modules are available at any parts store. You can get pickups cheap, if you check ebay regularly, and they are available at Kawasaki brand new, but not cheap. You can use the actual pickup from any of the models using them (550, 650, 750, 1000, 1100), but the timing plate just has to be swapped between big motors and small motors.

If you ever swap the actual individual pickups, I have a page describing how to get the magnet orientation correct.

loudhvx wrote: The other thing that makes the decision more difficult, is that you bought 3 ohm coils. They are right for the Dyna S, but not quite the ones you want for the factory ignition. For the factory ignition, (And HEI version), you would want the 2.2 ohm (gray) coils from Dyna.

But all is not lost. I use Accel 3-ohm coils with no problems on my HEI version of the factory ignitions (and the 3-ohm Accels are very similar to the 3-ohm Dyna green coils). It will typically only be a problem if you have higher than normal compression, or have the plug gaps opened much wider than stock. And if you really wanted to, you could probably easily sell the green coils, and get the gray coils.

Also, if you really are worried about the money, you could do 1/2 of the HEI mod. That way you only have to buy one HEI module (typically $20 ~ $25) and the two diodes and resistor.

For me, it's a no-brainer,... the HEI modules are available at any parts store. You can get pickups cheap, if you check ebay regularly, and they are available at Kawasaki brand new, but not cheap. You an use the actual pickup from any of the models using them, but the timing plate just has to be swapped.

If you ever swap the actual individual pickups, I have a page describing how to get the magnet orientation correct.

Dude...you are so making this harder. You should have just stopped with the part about the 3 ohm coils being the right ones for the Dyna-S system. LOL!