Another reason to do the coil mod anyways

I've stumbled across yet another reason to do the coil powering mod anyways.

My ignition switch wore out again. The contacts decided to corrode or something and the ignition switch would not work well.

So I disassembled the switch and cleaned it. It then occured to me that coil current of 3A can be switched through these contacts (but not my bike, I have factory electronic ignition!). Having a relay to switch the power directly to the coils takes it away from these contacts and the voltage losses that may come from the ignition switch and also the kill switch contacts. Do the coil power mod.

Anyways, it's late, my bike runs well with the repowered coils (Yes, riding in January in Canada). An excellent $5 upgrade!

A tip:
If you have a standard relay with contacts #30, #87, and #87A and you follow common instructions around here, you will end up with battery voltage on 87A when the bike is off. This didn't sit well with me, so I ran #87 to the battery positive (via the starter relay), and #30 to the coils instead. Just a suggestion!

I see your point inline79.

With the WG version, when the ignition is OFF there is Battery voltage at both the input 30 and the unused 87a. :blink:

With your version, when the ignition is OFF there is now voltage at the new input 30 and no voltage at any other pins.

I just never noticed. After thinking this over, I personally have no real problem with the WG version for two reasons. First, it allows me to use the voltage on the unused 87a for future purposes... although I really can't think of any earthly reason at this time. Second, I never populate unused contacts with any wires to make the harness smaller/simpler and to avoid unexpected short curcuits. You have probably already guessed that I will not be redoing my mod any time soon.

However, if I were starting out for the first time with this mod I would seriouly consider your version. In fact, I was so taken by this fresh approach that I just had to draw it out for my future reference. See below:


- Image Lost. :ohmy:
- Sorry about that. :blush:
- I was trying to correct an error in one of the callouts in the original image and lost the entire link!
- See the corrected image a few posts below, I hope!


Congratulations, I am always impressed with what members see and share here in the KZR nation. Good stuff!

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/06 21:56

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/09 00:21 :

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/09 00:32

Great thread!

bill_wilcox100 wrote:

In fact, I was so taken by this fresh approach that I just had to draw it out for my future reference.

Thanks for the excellent drawings Bill!

Well, that's pretty clever. I might just do that.

Remember though, not all relays have 87a. In fact, the first one I ever did had two 87, and not 87a. Then I've seen them with only one 87, and no 87a.

But for the ones with the 87a, this seems like a great idea...

bill_wilcox100 wrote:

In fact, I was so taken by this fresh approach that I just had to draw it out for my future reference.

Bill,

Thanks for doing the drawing. I hope it helps some doing their winter projects! For some of us who just used spade connectors for their mod, it's just a matter of swapping them around to apply this fix.

I too looked for a relay with two #87 contacts so I could wire the electronic ignition power separately but got tired of searching and settled for the standard #87 & #87A version.

For the record I could not for the life of me think of anything connected to #87A that I'd want to be ON when the ignition is OFF, and OFF when the ignition is ON.

Conway

inline79 wrote:
For the record I could not for the life of me think of anything connected to #87A that I'd want to be ON when the ignition is OFF, and OFF when the ignition is ON.
Conway

Maybe a Alarm system?

Post edited by: 1982KZ1100D1, at: 2008/01/08 21:53

Chalk up one point for Mike.

The original diagram had an error in one of the callouts.

This is Issue 02 of the diagram which correctly identifies and points to 87 as the only pin with Battery present when the Ignition is Off.

Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.

Conway... while I was in my Relay Phase, I realized that for my '77 KZ650-B1 the head light stayed on while I was trying to start it. That's a lot of current from my battery all at the same time. So I added a relay to turn off my head light when the starter button is pushed. Later models may have added this feature... I don't know.

Then I realised that the head light draws way more current than the coils and that its handle bar switch gear would benefit from the relief of a relay. You guessed it, I added a relay to direct the current to the low or high beam.

I have posted these circuits in the past. I can post them again should you need.

I still have some spare relays... where else could I use them? Horn, rear break switch, signal light switch, coil cut-out when the key is left in the ON position too long... bikes getting heavier. :whistle:

Best of success!

Can someone link me to the coil mod article please?

coil mod can be found hear.
www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option=com_con...=view&id=12&Itemid=5

My appologies to WG and company... looking at his web site I finally noticed that his suggested automotive relay does not have an 87a. :pinch:

Therefore, the problem of Battery voltage on an unused and potentialy unprotected contact when the ingnition is OFF never comes up. :S

The relays I bought locally do have an 87a so it is an issue only to me it seems. :whistle: