Another reason to do the coil mod anyways

Anyone have an actual pic and part number for this relay? I saw the diagram on WGs site, but I am at a loss where you guys are getting this relay.

CruisingRam, just go to the counter of any auto store( my fav is Carquest) and ask for a 4(or 5) pin 12v relay, they will pull out a book and find one that works. The catalogs have like 30 different kinds, almost all of which will work. I get a GOOD discount and picked mine up for under 9 dollars,so if you are near me I could hook you up.
I am in San Diego.

CruisingRam wrote:

Anyone have an actual pic and part number for this relay? I saw the diagram on WGs site, but I am at a loss where you guys are getting this relay.

When I do mine, I use:

- the 12VDC BOSCH RELAY SPDT 30A (WARNING: This relay has a 87a pin, which is what all the above discussion is about),

- the 12VDC 5-PIN RELAY SOCKET

- and before I added a blade-style fusebox (with a spare for the coil power mod), I used to use an In-line 10 amp ATO/ATC Fuseholder

Post edited by: Biquetoast, at: 2008/01/20 12:54

Little B wrote:

bill_wilcox100 wrote:

This is Issue 02 of the diagram which correctly identifies and points to 87 as the only pin with Battery present when the Ignition is Off.

Bill, do you happen to have a larger image of this? Perhaps a link to where the original is?

Edit: Is the only difference between Inline79 & robjonrik's method, adding a ground to 87a?

Another question: Is it important to use 12 AWG size wire to go from the relay to the coils or will 18 AWG suffice?

Post edited by: Little B, at: 2008/01/19 00:24<br><br>Post edited by: Little B, at: 2008/01/19 03:43

Adding a ground to 87A isn't a bad idea at all, and all you'd have to do is tie it to the ground which you already have on another pin on the relay. It's not critical, so I wouldn't worry about it.

18AWG should be a minimum simply for strength and not so much for current carrying ability.. 12AWG can be hard to work with. If you have some 12AWG I suggest using it for your ground lines.

Thx inline, now I can finish up the mod.

Bill, what software are you using to create these drawings? They look great!

For those of us who may be color blind you may wish to switch the markings for +ve and -ve terminals on the battery.

The trade name for the 4 pin relay in question is "#87 differential relay". Ask for a #87a and you'll get the 5 pin.

Folks in central Ontario can find it easily at Ideal supply, or if you're in the GTA try Sayal Electronics.

Post edited by: Saki Jockey, at: 2008/01/23 21:25

Hi Saki Jockey,

The drawing was made in Viso Professionl 2003.

The drawing was redone (issue 03) with the proper battery polarities indicated... thanks for the feedback!



On the West Island of Montreal, I got my relays and sockets at DDO Electronics.

The model I got were made by some company called NHG:
Model: NVF4-2C-Z40a
NO: 40A/14VDC
NC: 40A/14VDC
COIL DC12V

Best of success.

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/23 21:46

Hey Guys, its all done and just wanted to say thanks for the help!

Here are some pics:



I used Heat shrink tubing to help cover the wires and keep them neat looking...



...and to keep water out of the relay.



Another benefit of the stuff is that if you heat it up, bend it to the angle you want and then cool it down, it will retain the shape of the bend. You can cool it down quickly by using a spray bottle with acetone in it if you don't feel like blowing on it. You can see where I did this right below the relay, a little further down where it bends up and then a right angle towards the top right.



This is just where I made the front connection with a spade connector and then covered it with heat shrink for corrosion protection.

Hey B, Looks like a tidy install - much better than my hack job!

How's the bike run now???

From looking at your pics I'd also recommend you do the blade fuse conversion.

Everyone that has done the mod, are you stuffing the relay in the headlight? I didn't think I had enough room,and installed mine under the left cover.

I think it puts the relay closer to the battery, ie a shorter power wire run. The longest wire run then is the smallish 18g trigger from the switch. Both 12v power wires are pretty short, about 6 inches feeding the relay, and a maybe 2 ft to the coils.

I don't know if it makes a difference really.:S

I never looked at anyone else's diagrams on how to wire it in but mine seems to be like yours except that I ran a hot lead from the solenoid connection to an inline fuse and then to the relay. My bike had a ballast resistor mounted to the battery box that had power from the switch to the ballast and then on to the coils. I eliminated the ballast when I put Dyna's on the bike, then I used the leads already there to trigger the relay and pass power to the coils. I put all of this in a project box from Radio Shack and reused old side cover grommets as wire pass-thru grommets to keep the wires from chaffing and most of any water that should ever find its way there out. The box is mounted where the air box was since I run pods.

Did the same thing pretty much for the halogen headlight, that's what the other two relays are for (high, low beam). The headlight comes on with the key on but I guess I could always pull the inline fuse if need be for more cranking power. Don't think that will happen as mine has a kicker on it! (last 1000 to have one).

Post edited by: KZ_Rage, at: 2008/01/24 18:01

inline79 wrote:

Hey B, Looks like a tidy install - much better than my hack job!

How's the bike run now???

Thanks inline...I don't know how she runs yet because I'm still fixing other things on her right now. I do plan on doing the bladed fuse mod for the bike down the road but for now am just going to have the bladed fuse on the relay.

OKC_Kent wrote:

Everyone that has done the mod, are you stuffing the relay in the headlight? I didn't think I had enough room,and installed mine under the left cover.
I don't know if it makes a difference really.:S

I like the idea of it being closer to the battery as well. I don't think there would be enough room in the headlight fixture for the relay. Sometimes I have a hard enough time just getting the headlight in there! :whistle: