Another reason to do the coil mod anyways

I had different possibilities and objectives for the placement of the relay(s).

I still have my air filter box, I updated to blade fuses and added a new and separate 5 Amp coil fuse, I wanted to keep vibrations for reaching the relays (many not be that important for automotive relay) and I wanted all relays accessible via the side covers.

Given all this, I ended up suspending the relays from a frame tube under the left side cover. See below:



My fuse box remained under the right side cover on a rubber mount but the new blade fuse holder was fit into a plastic hobby box... I think it ended up a bit to tight. But at least the red failure LEDS ended up visible.

Image won't paste? See next post.

Best of success!

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/25 01:59

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/25 02:09[img size=150]

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/25 02:11

And the blade fuse box...

Or not

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/25 02:15

One more try...

Sharp job Bill! So do the LEDs light up when a fuse is blown?

Yes the LEDs light up when the respective fuse blows open curcuit... as long as there is still a few volts left across the battery terminals... great light show.

Its a really simple circuit.

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/25 08:06

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/25 08:07

One note about using the #87a terminal to ground which you have to make sure to remember -- lou remind me of it. If you install this, both sides of the coil are grounded, which makes hot-wiring very difficult. However, it also makes ignition troubleshooting very difficult for any person, helper, mechanic who might also be trouble shooting your electrical/ignition system. Make sure you make anyone (including yourself) aware of this particular modification before testing the system. Running a direct (+) supply to the coils to test or troubleshoot would result in a nasty hot short in the lines and some very confusing troubleshooting results for the unaware.

Post edited by: dnpurdy, at: 2008/01/25 13:45

bill_wilcox100 wrote:

Conway... while I was in my Relay Phase, I realized that for my '77 KZ650-B1 the head light stayed on while I was trying to start it. That's a lot of current from my battery all at the same time. So I added a relay to turn off my head light when the starter button is pushed. Later models may have added this feature... I don't know.

Then I realised that the head light draws way more current than the coils and that its handle bar switch gear would benefit from the relief of a relay. You guessed it, I added a relay to direct the current to the low or high beam.

I have posted these circuits in the past. I can post them again should you need.

My buddy's '85 Virago has that headlight unloader relay or whatever it's called. I think I want one, I'm gonna look for your other post.
Thanks
Ricky

Rickman wrote:

I'm gonna look for your other post.
Thanks
Ricky

Hey Ricky...if you find it, how about a link? :whistle:

This is the all dressed version with Starter/Head Light interlock/lock-out relay plus handlebar switch gear by-pass relay.



Best of success!

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/29 00:05

Thanks Bill!

Bill, Headlight Cut-out is a very good idea. All modern bikes have headlight cut-out, but I think they usually tie it into the starter button in the handlebar.

I don't remember if there are extra contacts on the starter button in the controls, but if there are it would be smarter to wire it in there (no new parts needed). Also I think the US bikes will have headlight power going into the same switch whereas our Canadian bikes will not.

Your bike must have relays hanging off the sides, where do you keep them all! I don't know if they're all necessary...

inline79, if you study my diagram carefully you will notice that the Starter button relay (K2) does in fact do several actions:

1) Disconnects the Head Light Hi and Lo power,
2) Activates the original high current Start solenoid,
3) Assures that only one relay (Hi Lo Select K3) or the other relay (Starter Solenoid) at a time is active (exclusive OR function).

Relay K3 does two things:

1) Selects the High or Low beam
2) Keep the high current Head Light power out of the switch gear. Why did I and K3? To solve a "Blue Head Light Indicator is always on" or it intermittently comes on when the Head Light switch is in the Lo position.

Both USA and Canadian bike models have all the Head Light power going through the same right side switch gear. The USA model has an additional switch to actually switch off the Head Light during day light operation. To meet Canadian regulations in force then and now, this Head Light On-Off switch in the switch gear was removed and replaced by a jumper such that the Head Light is on from the moment the Ignition switch is moved from the Off to the On position.

If you look several comments earlier you will see that I keep my 3 additional relays and their sockets under the left side cover. In fact, because of the tie-wrap attachment method and the location, I actually have room for several more relays.

Are all the relays necessary? Not really. They just solve some problems my bike had and add some functions at low cost.

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2008/01/30 15:45