Wow, its been awhile since I've been on this thread and I'm amazed by how many responses there are now... loudhvx is the man!! I've been doing a lot on the bike recently and I finally finished enough to fire it up and first button push it worked great! Thanks for all your help!
Another question for loudhvox. I am planning to hook up an external alternator. Can I run that along with the bike motor alternator? It is a one wire alternator. Almost finished with your great bare bones wiring diagram. Hope to start it soon. I think I need the extra charging as I am running an electrical reverse gear drive.
The engine is going in the large buggy and not the motorcycle so reverse is important. Thanks again for all your past help. I hope to have pictures soon to share with everyone.
The one wire alternator will have a built-in regulator/rectifier. Since the bike, now cart, has its own regulator, there will be two regulators fighting over control of the voltage. If the bike is using a lot of electricity it's not a problem, but when the bike has too much electricity, the bike regulator may fry.
You could maybe put in a switch so the KZ alternator/rectifier/regulator only comes on when the reverse is used. The single-wire (GM?) alternator should have more than enough power to power the cart during normal times.
You could also use a really big, (Or a bunch of small) diodes to reduce the voltage coming out of the GM alternator. This would make it provide current only under heavy load, such as when the reverse is used.
I'm sure there are other configurations that might work as well.
The main thing, though, is that you will need a much bigger battery, like a car battery. (I don't remember if you already said you are going to do that.) The alternators might only provide 20 amps or so at idle (which is probably what the engine will do when you're backing up). You need a big battery to give you the extra current.
I think the simplest solution, however, would be to just use a car battery and don't bother with the external alternator.
Better yet, but more work, would be to delete the KZ alternator/reg/rec and use only the external alternator. It would give you more electrical power (and is better suited to such extremely varying loads), but will require more fabrication. Some people put a pulley where the original alternator was and run a belt to the external alternator.
I'm after a diagram for my z650 fitted with gpz750 engine (and ignition system etc). I don't want any of the cut outs (clutch, side stand etc) and I don't want the indicators, but I'll need everything else (gauge lights, headlight & taillight) Being in the UK I won't need the headlight on all the time. Can you help at all?
I've printed off the ignition/charging system from the beginning of this thread, which was a great help, but I'll need all the rest - cos I ain't that clever!
Sorry, I don't really have time to go through all of the gauges etc. If you're keeping all of that, then a stock wiring diagram will be more useful anyway.
I don't know what year your gpz motor is, but here is a generic diagram to show ignition and charging to get it running, and a generic setup for some lights and basic idiot lights. All the rest of the gauge lights etc can be wired into the area to the right.
1977 KZ650 with GPZ750 motor, bare bones for Cherrymetal
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1977 Kawasaki Kz650 with Kz750 engine for Cherrymetal
Kz 650 Kz 750
You can probably go off this diagram I made for Cherrymetal's GPZ750. Your 84 GPZ550 should be very similar. Also, yes, you can just use individual spade connectors on the reg/rec. I often do. I like it because it's less bulky and I can hide the wiring better that way. But definitely get a good ratcheting crimper, otherwise you will waste your time.
1976 KZ400 S2 KZ400S2, bare bones.
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1976 Kawasaki Kz400S2 for oldkaws4ever
Kz400S Kz400 S2 Kz 400 S 400S2 400S
Can't seem to find this one for some reason.
I suggest using the one for Zeffrides. It is on page 19 of the Mattylight thread.
post number 703075. 14 Dec. 2015.
If I find the original drawing I'll post it here.
(No new image yet)
From another thread, (The troubleshooting Snerff's KZ1000 thread) 1BadGreenKZ wrote:
OK where do I begin..I have read and copied the diagragms to re-wire my "77" KZ1000...I have already pulled all the wires..it was a mess...I have the aftermaket R/R and also a new starter soleniod.(both from Z1 Enterprizes and made by Ricks Stators)...I am also using new ATC blade fuses and fuse block..what came on the bike is Accel coils and a Dyna S...I want to be sure that I can eliminate the 4 wire blocks/connectors...I have the 86 relay so I can wire the coils as per Wired Georges instructions...I also have put in a new H4 headlight and using Clear Alternatives Hayabusa smoked tail lens and LED light...where I'm pulling my hair out is wiring in the new soleniod coil wires...they are not matching colors to anything..I see in the bare bones diagragm that the Blk/Yellow from the Sol.coil ties into the Green/Ground..does this need to tie in or can I just Ground it to the frame??..I am not running anything on the bike.."bare bones"..no neutral,oil light..no gauges..just a headlight..no highbeam/lowbeam..highbeam only..brake light/tail light only..it looks like the "bare bones" diagragm will work just fine for me..any ideas or mods please let me know...PS..I'm also putting on some green LED pods but these will be wired to a hidden toggle and switched on only when the bike is parked...Thanks for any and all help...I can't wait to get this old beauty back on the road...crunch time...Bike Week is starting and I live 60 miles south of Daytona..Tracy
I don't like to trust the frame for any grounding purposes. I tie the ground wires to a convenient point on the frame to ground the frame, but that doesn't mean the frame is a good source of ground. I just run the ground wires to a single bolt using several lugs stacked on each other.
You should be able to use Snerff's diagram and adapt WG relay mod to it. His site will have the details for the relay mod. With new wires, connectors and a new ignition switch, the relay mod shouldn't really be necessary for a couple decades.
What solenoid are you using, and what are the wire colors? Do you have a diagram of the solenoid?
The KZ solenoid's coil wires can be reversed and still work.
First and foremost...thank-you for your time and sharing your passion ...I'm not sure as to the colors ..I don't have the internet at my shop...and the parts are there...to the best of my memory one is Green/Organge...and the other is Yellow/Red... the connectors are already installed...one female ...one male.both plug in...I'll be heading to my shop and will return to confirm and take a few pics as to what I have going on...Q??..can I run the three Yellow wires directly into the three coming from the stator or do they need to be wired into/through anything else..i am getting into some new territory here for myself,although I do have a pretty good understanding of how the componets work..I am also not sure that have a Red wire coming from the Dyna...I'll check that also..the bike died on me boiling out water from the battery...it still takes and holds a charge...I could never get the bike started again to test the system using the Eletrolux fault finding chart...which I'm sure you've seen...if not it's quite good and easy to understand..but the bike needs to be running...all indications pointed to the old/orginal Reg./Rec....I traded a YZ250 dirt bike for the KZ..it sat for over ten years...it took me about 4 hours to get it running...but it ran like crap...the carb holders where rotton...I replaced them...thanks Z1...went through the carbs/tank/valves/etc. and got the bike purring..I rode it over 500 miles a week ,saving me a ton when gas was $4:00 a Gallon..so now to solve the wiring problems....I look forward to your response and working with you getting the 1BadGreenKZ...well...being one Bad KZ again..Tracy..PS..I got a kick outta reading through this thread..and seeing a few get riled up..you're not only extremely knowledgeable but quite a gentleman also...very rare these days...my hats off to 'Ya...
**UPDATE**...the solenoid switch is made by Rick's Motorsport Electrics...the wires are Yellow/Red with a male plug...the other is Green/Red with the female plug...I do have a Red wire coming from the Dyna...here's a few pics.....the one with the solenoid show how I'm mounting the new ATC blade fuse block with the relay(WG's set up) in the place where the 4 connectors were...I'll be using all new wires..Duh...but in primary colors..from all the schematics/diagragms you have posted I'm certain I can re-wire the 'Ole Gal...I'm a firm believer in K.I.S.S....Keep It Simple Stupid....and you schematics/diagragms just that..looking forward to your response....Tracy