1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

Xbmxxx, I believe someone added an ignition from a later model 750 twin or 440 twin. The G model originally had points.

See what you think of the KZ 750 K1 twin diagram I did for Locolobo on page 12 (on my browser, this current post is on page 14). That one has the factory ignition , (which is what you have).

The one for the K1 had a pink wire on the igniter box. If yours does not, then ignore the pink wire on the diagram.

Awesome, that had me so confused. That looks like it will work, except I plan on using a car style ignition, that will include the start, so no starter button.

In the picture loudhvx made me, it says to wire the pink blue and yellow from the regulator to rectifier. I cant see where to wire the pink blue and yellow wires to because all the wires on the rectifier are yellow. any help?

Anyone?

On the rectifier, hook the pink/blue/yellow wires from the stator to the three yellows on the rectifier.

Since the rectifier has 3 yellows, it may be from a different model or different year. But as long as there are three yellow it will work (assuming teh rectifier is not defective).

The same goes for the regulator, but if the reg has pnk/blu/yel, then they should be hooked up according to color (obviously).

I edited the diagram to reflect the changes.

loudhvx wrote: 1983 KZ750 K1, KZ750K1, twin.

I don't have a U.S. K1 diagram, so this one is based on a West German diagram.

What would it take to eliminate the starter button and just use on on/off/start/acc style car ign switch?

Thanks!

That's easy to install, but it makes starting more difficult since one hand will have to be turning the key. That means the clutch can't be pulled at the same time the throttle is turned. I can change the diagram to that type. As a matter of fact, yu can check out Rockabillybobber's diagram a couple pages back, to see how it looks on paper.

This version of the KZ1000 E, shaft drive, for Rockabillybobber is batteryless.
The external starting circuit should have as much of the exposed conductor covered up as possible. It's very easy for these parts to short out against the engine, so be careful.


EDIT 1/10/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones
1980 Kawasaki Kz1000E2 no battery batteryless for Rockabillybobber
Kz1000E Kz1000 E2 Kz 1000 E 1000E2 1000E

I should have mentioned, I do plan on running a small battery out of a honda spree or something of the sort. I am in the habit of always starting my bike in neutral, so the clutch shouldnt be a problem. So just whatever it takes it to run, headlight, tail, brake, auto style key ignition. Sorry for being such an annoyance! I have no factory wiring to compare to so I am doing it all from scratch.

xbmxxx wrote: I should have mentioned, I do plan on running a small battery out of a honda spree or something of the sort. I am in the habit of always starting my bike in neutral, so the clutch shouldnt be a problem. So just whatever it takes it to run, headlight, tail, brake, auto style key ignition. Sorry for being such an annoyance! I have no factory wiring to compare to so I am doing it all from scratch.

Is this for the B or the G? If you are not using electric start (obviously the Spree battery won't turn over a 750), then you can use any simple key switch. But, of course, you can still use the 3-position car switch if you want.

It is for the G that I posted pictures of. I want to use an electric start off the key. I found this battery and I think its what I am going to go with. same size as the spree and 250cca

motydesign.com/product.php?batteries=8-cell-battery-hard-case

1980 KZ750 G1 twin upgraded with factory electronic ignition, for Xbmxxx.

EDIT 1/10/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones
1980 Kawasaki Kz750G1 twin with aftermarket ignition switch for Xbmxxx
Kz750G Kz750 G1 Kz 750 G 750G1 750G