Idle is out of control

For a motor to "Rev" it needs "air" so either the throttle flaps aren't closing fully or it has an air leak (unlikely given you have replaced boots, vac caps etc)

That one photo looks like you "might" of bead blasted them as an assembly im i correct? That grit, if so, can get wedged in places you might not think! Also check those two phillips headed screws per butterflies. If You or someone else loosened them then butterfly might of gotten cocked in venturi and not fully closing. 6K might sound high but those butterflies don't have to be that open to achieve that rpm level. Also double check choke plunger seating position if applicable.  

Tex
Idle adjustment screw is backed out, It is screwed in just enough to stay in place.
All
Thanks for responses
I guess I will take the rack off AGAIN. Gonna double check the butterflies,
That seems at this point to be the only thing left.
I rebuilt these about 15 years and never had any problems. Guess I got lucky!!!

Comparing what mine looked like after a full re-build... to me, it "seems" that the butterflys on your carbs are not closing fully.

If you hold them up to a light can you see light around the butterfly’s ? Mine had no light showing 

 

About to take the carbs off again to check the butterflies. I have what will seem to be a very elementary question.
What is or is there an easy way to install the air boots between the carbs and the airbox?
Is it just generally a PITA?
I have been going through the airbox letting my wrists get chewed by the plastic!!

There is no easy way out of this. You take the airbox boots off when removing the carburetors? when i install the airbox boots I try to go from the outside and use a flathead screwdriver to push the lip through the hole but if one is being persistent I will shove my hand in the airbox. If you're just trying to remove the carburetors I leave the boots on and pull the carbs up and out to the right. Im sure there is a better way to do this though.

It depends on the age and condition of the boots, mine are new OEM and are flexible enough to "roll back" on themselves (I am sure as they age harden I fill need to find a new way)

Unbolt the airbox and push it back as far as possible.  See what it's hitting when you do this, and rearrange things until you can't anymore, then wrestle the carbs out.

HALLELUJAH. Seems that indeed the butterflies were open a bit much. Pulled the rack and observed that I could push the butterflies closed on carbs 1, 3, and 4.
Butterfly on carb 2 would not budge. loosened the screws holding the flys. Moved it around some but it still wouldn't close. No idea how it worked but I took off carbs 1 and 2
from the rack. Fiddled with it a bit. Put it all back together and bang they all closed. NO IDEA what I did!! Told a friend about the process. He says he calls that "releasing the demon"
Anyway, thanks to everyone for helping with the process..
Now its time to put the air boots on. PITA;
Time to start a new thread about repairing the destroyed screen on the petcock. (unless there already isa one)

Wookie58 wrote:

If you hold them up to a light can you see light around the butterfly’s ? Mine had no light showing 


 

I've been following along on this thread, because of my carb issues.  Wookie, are the butterflies supposed to be closed all the way like that?  I believe mine are open ever so slightly.  If I remove them, and hold them up  the the light, are you saying you should see no daylight around the butterflies?  

rickysnicker wrote:

Wookie58 wrote:

If you hold them up to a light can you see light around the butterfly’s ? Mine had no light showing 



 

I've been following along on this thread, because of my carb issues.  Wookie, are the butterflies supposed to be closed all the way like that?  I believe mine are open ever so slightly.  If I remove them, and hold them up  the the light, are you saying you should see no daylight around the butterflies?  

In order for the engine to run, they have to be ever so slightly open. What Wookie58 and others are trying to do here is to insure that all four are exactly the same at the start. One way to do that is to use the idle speed screw to open them a little, then carefully watch as you back the screw out to insure that all four close at exactly the same time. Another way is to use a tiny drill bit or even a straightened paper clip as a feeler gauge. This is called bench synchronizing. This will get the carburetors close enough to start the engine. The running synchronization will dial each carburetor in as needed. Yes, each butterfly will be in a very slightly different position, almost undetectable to the naked eye.