You win a few, and lose a few...

The Kawasaki site list the 900 A5 with carb assembly # 255 it shows an air screw and the connector plate. The partzilla site shows the same things.

Speaking of Partzilla, they show the plate fitting a large number of different models.  

www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/16065...bcec919ce0de9457b7f5

New choke plunger seals using 2mm thick Viton this time.  Once I figured out the proper size for the donut seal, they weren't overly difficult to install into the plunger.  No need to "unroll" the lip, just tuck them in.  This said, I'm not discrediting Zed in the way he refurbishes these parts, I'm just saying this is what I did, and it seems to work okay.

 

I installed new 2mm rubber donuts in 7 more choke plungers yesterday, and now my fingers hurt.  Tucking in the donut works, but it's slow and painful on the fingers.  Zed's method of uncrimping the lip is no doubt better for doing a lot of plungers.

While doing the above a few measurements were taken...

A choke plunger with no rubber donut sticks up 21.41mm above the carb body
A choke plunger with a 1.5mm donut sticks up 22.12mm
A choke plunger with a 2.0mm donut sticks up 22.75mm

This tells me that with a 1.5mm donut, there would have to be a .71mm depression in the rubber before the plunger would bottom out.  Seems unlikely to me, but regardless, I'll use 2mm on all future builds.

Oh, and the donut size of 1.8mm ID and 7.5mm OD works well.  The 7.5 may be a little large even.  Next time I come across a thrashed plunger I'll cut it open and measure properly.

wrote:

 Zed's method of uncrimping the lip is no doubt better for doing a lot of plungers.

 

I don't uncrimp the lip.
I don't know where that information comes from but i have never stated that.
The lip remains entirely untouched.
I built mandrels and insertion jigs to get the seals past and under the lip without them touching it and even then some need a second attempt due to one reason or another.
Seals of the correct size and minimum 75 shore are almost impossible to insert manually without damaging the lip or marking it at the very least which is unacceptable for my purposes.
Early manual repairs on my own plungers revealed that the lips can simply fracture around the crimp line due to work hardening, the age of the material and the reduced thickness at that point.

 

wrote:

wrote:

 Zed's method of uncrimping the lip is no doubt better for doing a lot of plungers.




 

I don't uncrimp the lip.
I don't know where that information comes from but i have never stated that.
The lip remains entirely untouched.



 

My bad.  I misunderstood your comment about the tooling you made.

Oh, and just to be clear, I don't use my hands to pinch the donut into the plunger, other than to get it started.  That would be impossible.  I get the donut started on one edge, then a couple of different spoon tools are used to slowly pinch/press the donut into the plungers recess.

Yet another set (almost) done.  Still need to set the fuel level and install the drain plugs.  This set has a vacuum port on the carbs and code (hard to read) is 102 5A.

Sold the set posted earlier with the fuel screws.  I thought the air screw set would sell first, but apparently not.

Thanks for the info, with a vacuum port on #3 they were intended for a vacuum petcock. I think that was first offered in 1978 and later models.  It may of been used on some very late 77 models, but have found very little info saying so.

No personal comparison but I have heard the fuel pilots are a better set of carbs. 

Not to be a nit-picker but feel like better is a rather subjective term. Will say in my experience pilot screw as opposed to air screw carbs (talking Mikuni vm carbs) are somewhat more forgiving or easier to tune when making changes to intake or exhaust systems, Not sure if that means they are better carbs overall, but what do I know?
 

Next project...

Bought on eBay.  Ad didn't specify model or year other than 1000 & 1100.  The aluminum top caps are nice, compared to some others that used steel.

Tore them down last night.  The various screws were so tight I was afraid of breaking something hammering the impact driver to get them out.  Thankfully, all went okay.  

 

Hi Ed, Same as the set had, I stopped at those small brass throttle plate screws.
But added them to my sold lot of stuff, don't have to worry about them now!
I did manage to blast the bowls and  tops. Block sanded the tops before glass.
I sanded the slides with 1000 wet paper and my light oil mixture, that works great.
Rubber diaphrams were good too. I had this pic from a larger pic.