You win a few, and lose a few...

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Made a set from both nylon and delrin, and delrin is much nicer to cut...


BTW, my cat loves the ottoman that I use as a photo background.

Awesome, is there one that is more durable than the other?

If you look in the choke plunger bore you can see a raised circular portion on the bottom that I believe causes the indent in the plunger seal.

wrote:

wrote:

Made a set from both nylon and delrin, and delrin is much nicer to cut...


BTW, my cat loves the ottoman that I use as a photo background.

Awesome, is there one that is more durable than the other?

I think both are fine for the application.  Visually, the delrin machines better so the parts look a smig nicer, also, delrin is bright white, whereas nylon has a little translucent appearance.

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If you look in the choke plunger bore you can see a raised circular portion on the bottom that I believe causes the indent in the plunger seal.

Understood.  I'm still not sure about indenting though, as opposed to swelling in the area not in contact with that raised lip. 

The height of the raised lip needs to be higher than the distance from the sealing donut in the plunger to the edge of the rolled plunger retaining the donut.  I'm going to take some measurements today to better understand that relationship.  I'm wondering if the rolled edge can be compressed downward, towards the donut, to reduce the height?  That would be easier than trying to get 2mm donut installed vs. 1.5mm donut, which installs easily.

chemdip?

Get gallon drop the whole thing in and wait about a week.   If there is any thing left you'll see the extent of the pitting.

Maybe just get a set of 29mm CR's it would run great with those beauties. 

577Nitro 

Set fuel level on both sets today.  Set #2 went fine, but #1 set had a high fuel level, and no amount of adjusting the floats helped.  I recently bought a set of floats made in Taiwan, so I slammed them in, and the fuel level was perfect.  I weighed both floats and the aftermarket floats were about 9 grams, and the OEM were 11.  Maybe the OEM floats absorbed gas over the last 40 years?  I don't know, but it's clear that they are heavier and sinking more than the new aftermarket floats.

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Nessism post=872098

I'll try to remember to pick up some vinegar at Costco this weekend.  They sell the stuff in bulk for cheap.  

The corrosion goes deep into the various passages in the carbs.  It might be necessary to drill out the sealing balls in order to properly clean them.  The biggest concern is that parts of the float posts have eroded away, and the post piece around the needle jet too.  I don't want to try to weld to repair.  I've done some brazing in my day, but trying to build up the delicate edges where metal is gone is beyond my skill level, I'm afraid.

 

Is it OK to soak your carbs in vinegar to clean? If so I'll soak mine tonight

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Is it OK to soak your carbs in vinegar to clean? If so I'll soak mine tonight

Vinegar is to remove corrosion, it's not to clean per say.  I would not use it unless the carbs are a complete mess like the set in the original photos of this thread.  And before doing any soaking, it's necessary to remove all parts, especially pilot screws and the like.  All small parts, so the cleaning sauce can reach the inner passages.

I use ERC carb dip with great results in a 50/50 fuel mix. Brass parts and carb bodys are shining like new after severel hours.
I would donor a test sample unit to you if you are interested.

 

OK ED, you have been on a roll here with carbs. Don't forget about the 76 26mm KZ carbs. I never seen the white nylon ring in the rubber grommets? They were used on the 28mm Z1 carbs, maybe someone just thought they were helping it with some old Z1 parts??   Suzuki GS 2 valve 750/1000 used 26mm also. Zuki's had a little different linkage.
Now I have a question for you.
I've never liked or re-did the CV carbs. But I have this set of 34's off of an 81 J-model 1100.
Are they worth re-doing then selling? Or is it a waste of many hours and 4 cheap kits, to make a few bucks? A friend of mine gave them to me for $20 bucks after he parted out a craigslist engine.
Someone spray bombed them black???  I would glass bead the bodies if I do take  these apart. (got to be real careful with media on that cheap pot aluminum) I use "POTTERS" 13 mic.
The slides move, I just pushed them up before the pictures. They seem all there?
I just don't want to do all the work if they are not worth much?
I still sell a little on eBay.
Marty in Buffalo
 

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OK ED, you have been on a roll here with carbs. Don't forget about the 76 26mm KZ carbs. I never seen the white nylon ring in the rubber grommets? They were used on the 28mm Z1 carbs, maybe someone just thought they were helping it with some old Z1 parts??   Suzuki GS 2 valve 750/1000 used 26mm also. Zuki's had a little different linkage.
Now I have a question for you.
I've never liked or re-did the CV carbs. But I have this set of 34's off of an 81 J-model 1100.
Are they worth re-doing then selling? Or is it a waste of many hours and 4 cheap kits, to make a few bucks? A friend of mine gave them to me for $20 bucks after he parted out a craigslist engine.
Someone spray bombed them black???  I would glass bead the bodies if I do take  these apart. (got to be real careful with media on that cheap pot aluminum) I use "POTTERS" 13 mic.
The slides move, I just pushed them up before the pictures. They seem all there?
I just don't want to do all the work if they are not worth much?
I still sell a little on eBay.
Marty in Buffalo

 


Its all about the diaphragms on the CV carbs…if they are ruptured or dry rotted it would be big bucks to fix.   You can get the parts still I think, but the y are cost prohibitive..IMHO.   I would throw the money towards a set of CR’s or RS’s.   

If the diaphragms are good (you have to remove them to verify) then cleaned and in good working order they could fetch $$$.

577nitro