RS Flat Slide Pilot Jetting

With the Street baffle cork back in...


20 pilot fuel jets make slightly dark plugs, and 17.5's produce pops. :blink: .7 (pilot) air jets with 17.5's is rich, but .8 produces pops and subtle pings at take-off when its hot out or carrying a passenger.

I believe the effective range of the pilot screws is from 1/8 to 1/2, and I'm currently set at 3/8+/-.
Idle gets rough beyond 1/2 turn out.

Raise/lower the jet needle from center position, or try mid-grade fuel?
Simple tests, but I need a brief rest from tail chasing.

RS flatslides had somewhat poor street driveability, even with and AFR gauge installed I was never able to get a proper tune the way I wanted it. I even recall having the same issue you are having. A few things to make sure of:

make sure your idle mixture screws have good sharp pointy tips on them
make sure the o-rings, little brass washers, and springs are all present and in good shape on the mixture screws.

I believe (its been a few years) that when I checked my air bleeds they were just simply plugs, no holes in them. and I was running a 17.5 pilot jet on my RS 36's. That was with pods, a pipe, 1170 Wiseco kit on an '83 GPZ. It ran OK but smoked black like crazy on the accel pump no matter what i tried.

General consensus is the Kiehin FCR's are way better for street driveability and tuning. you will have to live with some minor tuning issues with the RS's. Im actually so done with carbs my 1394 big block that is getting nearer and nearer completion is getting microsquirt fuel injection

Great advice, and thanks for sharing your experience with RS carbs. Sorry they didn't work well for you.

This set of carbs does have some idiotsynchracings, but the challenges are worth sorting considering the alternative of going back to the BS34's. Those were great BTW, but they don't let the ponies loose like these do. :ohmy:

I reset the floats to 17mm after originally setting them at 19mm in an effort to prevent overflow-leakage when leaving the bike on the side-stand, and they have not lost a single drop since that was done a few days ago Not sure, but that reset may have helped smooth out the idle some.

After posting the subject earlier, I went ahead and moved the clips down to the forth slot, which seems to have cut the pops quite a bit and may have helped the acceleration.

If you really want to tune carbs properly, go pick up an AEM wideband sensor with gauge and temporarily install it. All you need is a 50 cent o2 sensor bung and a buddy with a mig welder.

All the old school guys will say this is a waste of time but it is the most accurate way to tune carbs for making power. There are a ton of writeups in the muscle car world of guys who had no driveability symptoms and great plug wash picking up HP just from proper wideband tuning.

And yes the RS's are great compared to their round slide counterparts, I wouldn't have given mine up for any reason and actually still have them in case they are needed for a future project.

:whistle: Prepping for the K&N individual air filters I've had tucked away in a box...aka PODS!
Planning to start with the #20 pilots, along with the quieter V&H Street baffle...

I have an 82 gpz 1100 with the 1170 kit, web cams ported head, and the rs36 carbs with pod filters. Mine carberates perfectly, very streetable. Starts easy, idles great, no flat spots, very smooth from idle to redline. I'm running 20 pilots, 135 mains with the needle clip in the 4th slot. It carberates perfectly from sea level to 12000 ft, from very cold to very hot temps. I'm extremely pleased with the rs carbs. And I get between 35 to 40 mpg depending on how aggressive I ride.

Baldy110, that sure is a cute little green thing you have there...must fly like the wind!
My jetting must be close with # 20 pilots, 132.5 (1 & 4) and 135 (2 & 3) main jets, with clips on the 4th slot. May need to tweak the setup a little, but...whoa, she's a completely different animal.

I felt kinda guilty taking off the air box...until I got off on the highway a couple hours ago.

Ain't sorry no more! Holy %#*^!!!

Just had Christmas in July :woohoo:

Slept like a baby last night. Must have been that exhilarating ride down the highway...and back.
Wait a minute, maybe it was just a dream.........................................................zzzz......................................................................................

Nope. I actually made a surprising discovery about the air box, and PODS. Wake up Dave...slap! :pinch:

How can this be? All this time I was convinced, and the air box was restricting my pump. That square shaped little hole behind the filter was determined to keep out the good stuff, and was utterly successful at it. :evil:
Well zzz, enough of that!

Guess I'd better go have myself another look.

Later.

Yeah when you start modding these engine the stock airbox ends up being a restriction. I originally had the K&N pod filters then went with a foam filter with velocity stacks inside. I got it out of England a while ago. And yes my ELR clone will rip your arms off it accelerates so hard. I have a Koso R1 gauge setup and it includes an accelerometer inside that will let me know 1/4 mile times and speeds. I get 0-60 mph in 2.7 seconds and that is in 2nd gear, 100 mph in less than 9 seconds in 3rd and it just keeps on pulling. An absolute blast to ride and I still get 30+ mpg. Try that in a car.

Is an ideal relationship between WOT and Red Line attainable through carb selection and adjustment? :whistle:

You mean between idle and redline? I got mine to carburate smoothly from idle to redline, no flat spots, very smooth.

baldy110 wrote: You mean between idle and redline? I got mine to carburate smoothly from idle to redline, no flat spots, very smooth.

Redlines quickly, well before WOT, in lower gears anyway. May seem like a dumb question, but how fast would I be moving with the throttle held wide open?

I can't imagine getting a WOT plug chop, without blowing up the motor attempting to get there...