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NooB needs some Float Level checking advice ...
- jdvorchak
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Mean Green Z28 wrote:
Well I double checked the pilots, and they're clean, I used a strand of wire to clean them out and then sprayed carb cleaner through it. I'm afraid that if that cylinder is not working, that I may damage it by riding it. I did also spray cleaner through the passages but that's not something I was able to verify as clean so that may be it too.jdvorchak wrote: One problem at a time. We went from carbs to valves and while that is natural, I find it easier to address one issue at a time.
First your slow speed/idle jets are still clogged. Squirting carb cleaner in them proved that. Those jets are tiny and hard to get clean. I've used a couple of different methods to unplug them. Boil them for 15 to 20 minutes in distilled water. If that doesn't work try pushing a small wire, like a wire from a wire brush through them. Some use a "E" string from a guitar. I have some welding tip cleaning wires which work very well and they are cheap.
Since all valves are checking close to spec, now, put it back together and ride it. Compression numbers will rise after you run it for a few hundred miles. Since it is able to start and run you're compression cant be that bad.
You should be able to verify the passages. Remove the jets and wrap some electrical tape around the carb cleaner straw so it fits tight into the jet holder. When you spray you should see some carb cleaner coming out of the carb throat near the throttle butterfly. Usually on the engine side. should see a nice stream. Follow that with some compressed air and squirt it a few more times to make sure there nothing floating around in there.
Sorry about the shims and low compression. I'm pretty sure you're tearing down that engine top end.
Don't fix it until it's broken.
John
83 KZ550M1
83 KZ1100LTD
Also own:
2010 Harley Ultra Classic Limited, 2008 Harley low rider 71 CB350/sidecar
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- Patton
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1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Mean Green Z28
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- Kawasaki NooB
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Will give the carb setup one more try before sending them off to be professionally rebuilt. My ex-boss used to drag-race a KZ1000 back I the day, so will have to get at him for help on the motor.
With all the work put in to get this far, I was atleast hoping the engine would be a straight shot ... ugh
2010 Camaro 2SS
1983 Kawi KZ1000P ... bag of bolts
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- Mean Green Z28
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2010 Camaro 2SS
1983 Kawi KZ1000P ... bag of bolts
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- 650ed
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Mean Green Z28 wrote: ........and the top surface was never touched. I'm not making excuses .......
Yes you are. :laugh: :laugh: Open up that wallet, set the moths free, and buy a shim; they're not expensive. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- SWest
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Steve
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- Mean Green Z28
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Z1 is out of stock on the 2.50mm shims and everyone online only sells 5 packs ... gonna try some cycle shops
2010 Camaro 2SS
1983 Kawi KZ1000P ... bag of bolts
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- SWest
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Steve
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- Grnole
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Just make sure you get the right diameter, the local cycle shop here sold me one that was .05 too big in diameter. That was a bad day.
1980 KZ1000 LTD -B4
1984 Yamaha FJ1100
1972 Honda CL350 (sold)
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- jackleberry
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Grnole wrote: I got mine off fleabay.
Just make sure you get the right diameter, the local cycle shop here sold me one that was .05 too big in diameter. That was a bad day.
It always kills me to see USED valve shims on eBay for 3 times what new ones cost...
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- Mean Green Z28
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1 and 3 def running a but rich. 2 and 4 not wet but a slight haze. These are brand new plugs.
2010 Camaro 2SS
1983 Kawi KZ1000P ... bag of bolts
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