NooB needs some Float Level checking advice ...

Mean Green Z28 wrote:

jdvorchak wrote: One problem at a time. We went from carbs to valves and while that is natural, I find it easier to address one issue at a time.

First your slow speed/idle jets are still clogged. Squirting carb cleaner in them proved that. Those jets are tiny and hard to get clean. I've used a couple of different methods to unplug them. Boil them for 15 to 20 minutes in distilled water. If that doesn't work try pushing a small wire, like a wire from a wire brush through them. Some use a "E" string from a guitar. I have some welding tip cleaning wires which work very well and they are cheap.

Since all valves are checking close to spec, now, put it back together and ride it. Compression numbers will rise after you run it for a few hundred miles. Since it is able to start and run you're compression cant be that bad.

Well I double checked the pilots, and they're clean, I used a strand of wire to clean them out and then sprayed carb cleaner through it. I'm afraid that if that cylinder is not working, that I may damage it by riding it. I did also spray cleaner through the passages but that's not something I was able to verify as clean so that may be it too.

You should be able to verify the passages. Remove the jets and wrap some electrical tape around the carb cleaner straw so it fits tight into the jet holder. When you spray you should see some carb cleaner coming out of the carb throat near the throttle butterfly. Usually on the engine side. should see a nice stream. Follow that with some compressed air and squirt it a few more times to make sure there nothing floating around in there.

Sorry about the shims and low compression. I'm pretty sure you're tearing down that engine top end.

Good Fortune!

Well you live and learn. Like I said I barely took anything off of the shim and also that's also not from the side the cam rides on. A typical case hardening of that shim should def be thicker than a thousandth. And the top surface was never touched. I'm not making excuses haha just looking at it from another perspective.

Will give the carb setup one more try before sending them off to be professionally rebuilt. My ex-boss used to drag-race a KZ1000 back I the day, so will have to get at him for help on the motor.

With all the work put in to get this far, I was atleast hoping the engine would be a straight shot ... ugh

It's been a long-ish road

AUGH.
Steve

Mean Green Z28 wrote: ........and the top surface was never touched. I'm not making excuses .......

Yes you are. :laugh: :laugh: Open up that wallet, set the moths free, and buy a shim; they're not expensive. Ed

Or risk one going through the head.
Steve

Haha

Z1 is out of stock on the 2.50mm shims and everyone online only sells 5 packs ... gonna try some cycle shops

Jets R us sells them
Steve

I got mine off fleabay.

Just make sure you get the right diameter, the local cycle shop here sold me one that was .05 too big in diameter. That was a bad day.

Grnole wrote: I got mine off fleabay.

Just make sure you get the right diameter, the local cycle shop here sold me one that was .05 too big in diameter. That was a bad day.

It always kills me to see USED valve shims on eBay for 3 times what new ones cost...

Okay so the pilots are clean for sure and bike only idles on choke. even though 2 and 4 don't really work at idle I rode her around the neighborhood ph the choke. While riding, I can push the choke in and it'll work fine on higher rpms. Coming to a stop, I have to choke again cos it'll stall. Here's the plugs after the ride. All pilot screws set to 2.5 turns.

1 and 3 def running a but rich. 2 and 4 not wet but a slight haze. These are brand new plugs.