NooB needs some Float Level checking advice ...

Funny thing is I can put a V8 engine together and set up the timing and valves etc with my eyes closed but this bike is pissing me off

650ed wrote: But, how much is a "small amount?"

One tablespoon equals 14cc. That will definitely have a huge effect on the compression ratio. If 14cc of oil is added to a 250cc combustion chamber that originally had a compression ratio of 10:1 it would drive the compression ratio up to 21.5:1.

Here's why:
- With no oil added the uncompressed volume would be 250cc and the compressed volume would be 25cc. 250 / 25 = 10.0 compression ratio.
- With 1 tablespoon (14cc) of oil added the uncompressed volume would reduce from 250cc to 236ccc and the compressed volume would reduce from 25cc to 11cc. 236 / 11 = 21.5 compression ratio. Ed

Well you're only supposed to ad just enough to wet the rings so they seal, not to really take up volume

The valve adjustments are the one thing most guys don't want to do. They just sell the bike. If they're tight go down three steps. If you're lucky, it will build compression as it starts to run better. You know this if you build motors. The pressure forces the rings against the cylinder walls. It's the first thing I'd check when I got a new bike in the shop.
Steve

^ haha true story ... after maybe the 4th time of pulling the carbs, I had my hands up saying f this bike I'm selling it!
This made my wife smile .. so I decided to keep it lol

Hoping all the timing marks are lined up ... took these pics late last night

What do the valve clearances measure out to? Don't put together before reading the manual.
Steve

I did a leak-down test ... well added air to the cylinder with both valves closed and there was no apparent leakage through the valves, all I heard was a faint leakage into the crank case.

Well here are the valve clearance numbers...
I'm listing them as GO-NOGO so the value falls between the two gages.

Cylinder #1
Intake: 0.002" - 0.0025 (0.051mm - 0.063mm)
Exhaust: 0.003" - 0.004" (0.076mm - 0.102mm)

Cylinder #2
Intake: 0.015" - 0.002" (0.038mm - 0.051mm)
Exhaust: 0.0025" - 0.003" (0.063mm - 0.076mm)

Cylinder #3
Intake: 0.0025" - 0.003" (0.063mm - 0.076mm)
Exhaust: 0.0015: - 0.002" (0.038mm - 0.051mm)

Cylinder #4
Intake: NOGO at 0.0015" (0.038mm)
Exhaust: 0.003" - 0.004" (0.076mm - 0.102mm)

Tried swapping the shims between intake and exhaust on Cyl#4 to see if I can balance them out but it didn't work out; intake was fine but the exhaust was a nogo. Swapped them back and ran the intake shim on ultra fine grit sandpaper for a LONG time by hand and was able to shave off a couple thousandths and get to 0.002" - 0.0025" in the end.

Put everything back together with a few small dabs of RTV on the plugs/ends ... they leaked anyways and I need to order a whole bunch of stuff soon.

Started engine back up and was back at square one. FML!!! Cylinder #4 still doesn't want to party. Also, #2 looks like it's acting the same. Sprayed some carb cleaner into the pod on #4 and it picked up speed. However, the engine felt like it was rattling itself to death, lol. Still only running with choke pulled all the way out and will stay running for a bit when I push the choke in a bit to the first indent, then stalls. Pull chock and crank it and it lights back up like a puppy ... then runs like crap, haha ... also heard some pops coming from the carbs when I tried revving it up in the first indent of choke.

Mean Green Z28 wrote: I did a leak-down test ... well added air to the cylinder with both valves closed and there was no apparent leakage through the valves, all I heard was a faint leakage into the crank case. . . Tried swapping the shims between intake and exhaust on Cyl#4 to see if I can balance them out but it didn't work out; intake was fine but the exhaust was a nogo. Swapped them back and ran the intake shim on ultra fine grit sandpaper for a LONG time by hand and was able to shave off a couple thousandths and get to 0.002" - 0.0025" in the end. . . .

Per FSM:



Valve with insufficient clearance can sometimes seal when cold but leak at normal operating temp.

Good Fortune!

Ummm


well it was 0.1000" and I probably got it down to 0.999 with my awesome skills haha

One problem at a time. We went from carbs to valves and while that is natural, I find it easier to address one issue at a time.

First your slow speed/idle jets are still clogged. Squirting carb cleaner in them proved that. Those jets are tiny and hard to get clean. I've used a couple of different methods to unplug them. Boil them for 15 to 20 minutes in distilled water. If that doesn't work try pushing a small wire, like a wire from a wire brush through them. Some use a "E" string from a guitar. I have some welding tip cleaning wires which work very well and they are cheap.

Since all valves are checking close to spec, now, put it back together and ride it. Compression numbers will rise after you run it for a few hundred miles. Since it is able to start and run you're compression cant be that bad.

jdvorchak wrote: One problem at a time. We went from carbs to valves and while that is natural, I find it easier to address one issue at a time.

First your slow speed/idle jets are still clogged. Squirting carb cleaner in them proved that. Those jets are tiny and hard to get clean. I've used a couple of different methods to unplug them. Boil them for 15 to 20 minutes in distilled water. If that doesn't work try pushing a small wire, like a wire from a wire brush through them. Some use a "E" string from a guitar. I have some welding tip cleaning wires which work very well and they are cheap.

Since all valves are checking close to spec, now, put it back together and ride it. Compression numbers will rise after you run it for a few hundred miles. Since it is able to start and run you're compression cant be that bad.

Well I double checked the pilots, and they're clean, I used a strand of wire to clean them out and then sprayed carb cleaner through it. I'm afraid that if that cylinder is not working, that I may damage it by riding it. I did also spray cleaner through the passages but that's not something I was able to verify as clean so that may be it too.

Mean Green Z28 wrote: ........ and ran the intake shim on ultra fine grit sandpaper for a LONG time by hand and was able to shave off a couple thousandths and get to 0.002" - 0.0025" in the end.........

Very bad rookie mistake. The shims are not the same hardness all the way through. Get rid of the shims you shaved and buy new ones. New shims cost a LOT less than a new engine! Ed