removing carbs

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12 Oct 2011 00:25 - 12 Oct 2011 00:38 #482689 by Motor Head
Replied by Motor Head on topic removing carbs
Prime.
One reason for the level to be too high is that the float needle and seat are not sealing. Take it off prime, then with the drain open, tip the tube down to empty it. Then place the tube up for measurement. Watch the fuel rise. Does it come up then slowly go up past the gasket? That would show the quick fill when the float is dropped, then try to shut the flow off. But the Needle and seat leaking as it just keeps slowly rising.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
Last edit: 12 Oct 2011 00:38 by Motor Head.

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13 Oct 2011 18:49 - 13 Oct 2011 18:55 #482993 by STUNTMAN STEVE
Replied by STUNTMAN STEVE on topic removing carbs
yep, tried to check the levels again, tapped the bowls to losten valve to no avail. everytime i put the tank back on prime, gas would pour out of the face of number 3, and rise too high on number 4..
so, took tham apart to really clean them and set the float levels, and found what really looks like gravy hahaha
got them soaking in pine sol overnight, and will take a stab at them again tommorrow...


'84 gpz750 work in progress/ money pit
Last edit: 13 Oct 2011 18:55 by STUNTMAN STEVE. Reason: forget to post about pic

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13 Oct 2011 19:38 #482998 by Motor Head
Replied by Motor Head on topic removing carbs
All I can Say is :sick: !!!
Get those things Clean!!!
Don't forget to Inspect those manifolds/ Carb holders. I would pull them off.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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13 Oct 2011 19:57 - 13 Oct 2011 19:59 #483004 by mtkawboy
Replied by mtkawboy on topic removing carbs
Maybe you guys have had better luck then I have but using paper car filters, only works a few days for me. I dont know whats going on but after that the fuel wont keep up with the carbs. If you know of a certain brand of paper filter that works Id sure like to hear about it. Ive tried them all with the same results so Ive been using brass ones but they dont stop the rust powder. Ive ven started pushing Harbor Freight magnets down into the bottom of the tank hoping they would attract the rasty powder. Also if you remove the battery case bolts it will give you a little bit more room for removing & installing the carbs

78-KZ1000/1105, 80 KZ1000, 82 Kawasaki GPZ750, 95 Harley Fatboy, 80 Suzuki GS1100ET, 81 GS1100E parts bike, 83 GS1100SD Katana/1394,78 Yamaha XT500, 81 Yamaha XS650, 78 Yamaha XS650E, 48 Whizzer model J motorbike, 71 Honda CT70H, 71 Honda CT70, 81 IT 250 Yamaha,82 Honda XL100S owned
Last edit: 13 Oct 2011 19:59 by mtkawboy. Reason: additional info

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13 Oct 2011 20:00 #483005 by Motor Head
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mtkawboy wrote: Maybe you guys have had better luck then I have but using paper car filters, only works a few days for me. I dont know whats going on but after that the fuel wont keep up with the carbs. If you know of a certain brand of paper filter that works Id sure like to hear about it. Ive tried them all with the same results so Ive been using brass ones but they dont stop the rust powder. Ive ven started pushing Harbor Freight magnets down into the bottom of the tank hoping they would attract the rasty powder. Also if you remove the battery case bolts it will give you a little bit more room for removing & installing the carbs

sounds like you really need to clean, and maybe line your tank.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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13 Oct 2011 20:02 #483006 by gengomerpyle
Replied by gengomerpyle on topic removing carbs
www.z1enterprises.com/Fuel-Filter--round...ne-clear-14-295.aspx

they have a few different styles



mtkawboy wrote: Maybe you guys have had better luck then I have but using paper car filters, only works a few days for me. I dont know whats going on but after that the fuel wont keep up with the carbs. If you know of a certain brand of paper filter that works Id sure like to hear about it. Ive tried them all with the same results so Ive been using brass ones but they dont stop the rust powder. Ive ven started pushing Harbor Freight magnets down into the bottom of the tank hoping they would attract the rasty powder. Also if you remove the battery case bolts it will give you a little bit more room for removing & installing the carbs


1982 GPZ750R1 ELR
1978 Honda CB750F SuperSport
1971 Honda CB750K
1970 Honda CL100 Scrambler

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14 Oct 2011 17:09 #483196 by STUNTMAN STEVE
Replied by STUNTMAN STEVE on topic removing carbs
ok, i give up. i have no reference on whether my readings are correct, or if my floats are sticking. got them back together today and my clear tubes were all over the place! i think they just need to be rebuilt, but i have two jobs, and hardly sleep as it is...
is there anyone on the east coast i can send mine to to have them gone over? or buy a rebuilt set, bench synched, to put on my bike? this old thing has been sitting around way too long without being ridden...

steve

'84 gpz750 work in progress/ money pit

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14 Oct 2011 17:10 #483197 by STUNTMAN STEVE
Replied by STUNTMAN STEVE on topic removing carbs
ive got one last local guy i can try, then im out of resources. any direction appreciated

'84 gpz750 work in progress/ money pit

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14 Oct 2011 17:58 #483203 by Motor Head
Replied by Motor Head on topic removing carbs
Sounds like its all a bit frustrating, sorry it isn't going better for you.
maybe take a couple days away from it and just order some Kits. Then when they come in, maybe you'll feel like tackling it again. :)
It can be a bit of a learning curve the first go around.
Also the other problem could be that the float itself leaks. Causing it to "Sink" and let the gas flow into the bowls. Either that or worn Float Valves. Did you keep the needle with each seat like they came out, since they would be worn to each other?

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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14 Oct 2011 20:01 #483228 by STUNTMAN STEVE
Replied by STUNTMAN STEVE on topic removing carbs
yeah, its starting to get to me. i put them back together today. i did put the needles and seats together, numbered on a peice of cardboard, as to which body they went with. he needles did have small grooves in them and #3 was still leaking gas out of the carb body when i primed gas back into them. the float tangs themselves had been bent before, so itried to the best of my ability to straighten them out...im guessing the float valves, on at least the one with gas running out of the face. prob the other one with the gas in the clear tube a full inch above the gasket line as well.(that one may just have air in it that i havent gotten out yet)

having said that, because of my inexperience, i dont wanna order $100 in rebuild kits, and then miss something else.. does anyone offer a rebuilding service for the gpz carbs? just wanna weigh my options..

'84 gpz750 work in progress/ money pit

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14 Oct 2011 23:13 #483257 by 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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14 Oct 2011 23:26 #483259 by Motor Head
Replied by Motor Head on topic removing carbs
That 1" above gasket is way high, as you by now Know. If the carbs are still off the bike, how about pulling the bowls, Inverting the Rack or Carbs and posting a picture showing how the Carb Floats are sitting. Kind of a side angle across all 4. Really if everything is working correctly, the floats should all sit very close to the same Height/ angle. If 1 is way different, then there is an issue with the float or Valve. They should be somewhat level with the gasket surface when inverted. This is not exact. but like I said if you are bending the tab, and the float is now sitting at a raised angle, when inverted, something is not correct. While the bowls are off, and the carbs are in their normal upright position, you can run the fuel through the inlet, and operate the float valve with you hand. It shoud shut off with only slight upward pressure. You can take a container and make a test tank, and put the floats in there to see if they all sit at the same flotation level. As to show if 1 is leaking. Or if you have a Gram scale you could weigh them all. Float weight is another point of carburetion that gets neglected.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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