OMR: Emission Tester AVI Clip.....

so i guess that the gunson would be valuable to set each carb up individually, and acuratly. then the 02 would be more useful for cruise and mid range throttle adjustments. is that an accurate statement?
i have always tuned the low end up by adjusting to the highest idle rpm, by ear.i do find it very difficult with the rs carbs though. the rs carbs dont have as fine a tuning window as most. the pilot air screws are to be turned a max of 1/2 turn out from seat, rather than the usual 2 turns.

I think it's actually cheaper and better to use actual road testing. Why not just get the setup portable? That way acceleration will be real, not simulated. Then you can also check long term cruising without worrying about overheating anything. Also, the bike will be at real-world temperatures on the entire engine. You can really throw all real world situations at it and see how everything affects it. I learned a lot just riding around and glancing at the gauge once in a while. Things like how head-wind, tail-wind, uphill, downhill, etc, affect the AFR. It was very interesting. Dave, you seem like the type of guy who's not going to be satisfied til you get the actual, real-world AFR numbers. This Innovate system is rated as one of the best for on-board AFR systems. They have many, many options for it too. If you want to get real technical, you can get their datalogger option and record the RPM, versus AFR, and then get a throttle sensor and record that too. I just went with the gauge and controller like this one, but there are many options on their website. But stay away from the LM-1 and LM-2, stick with the LC-1 and/or data loggers. I think some of the dataloggers might even do away with the controller. Peronally, I like the gauge in my face, so I can see it in real time, then I know when it's a hill etc. affecting things. With just the data you're just looking at signal traces and don't see what's happening in the environment. I just look at the gauge and log the data by pulling over and writing it down old school on paper (who'da thunk )
www.innovatemotorsports.com/

You can get a setup like mine new on ebay for about $200, but probably cheaper if you fight it out on the bidding.
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why would u stay away from the LM-1, LM-2 ?

"02 would be more useful for cruise and mid range throttle adjustments. is that an accurate statement"...

As Loud mentioned, this would truly only be useful during a load test... Meaning while the bike was running down the road at mid range 4K-6Krpm for the desired 13.8 reading....

If you guys remember, I had originaly designed this as a mid exhaust sensor AFR meter... Did it work yup to what degree hard to say for I have nothing to verify the accuracy with...

As for the emission test... It provides the required results for non load emission passing standards to use as a reference... Truly nothing more but interesting just the same....

I saw that unit Loud but hey, as with you, was thinking ah hell, I can make my own... :S :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
I guess I was bored....


Dave

mark1122 wrote:

why would u stay away from the LM-1, LM-2 ?

Based on their discussion board, it seemed like some people were having trouble with them operating correctly. the LM-1 might be ok, but's no longer available, from what I remember. Plus they are bigger and would be more difficult to find a mounting spot for them.

Old Man Rock wrote:
[quote
I saw that unit Loud but hey, as with you, was thinking ah hell, I can make my own... :S :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
I guess I was bored....
[/quote]

I considered that too. But it ended up being cheaper to buy it. It's a really nice unit and the software was very simple to program it (though it's already setup for gasoline, wideband and calibrated for the gauge, if you don't want to mess with connecting a PC). There are options on where the needle will sit during warm up etc. I was expecting headaches with it, but it works surprisingly well.

Loud
i am kind of liking this one.

www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/produc...16235&cat=273&page=1

do u think there are any pros or cons towards the digital or anolog?

Old Man Rock wrote:

"02 would be more useful for cruise and mid range throttle adjustments. is that an accurate statement"...

As Loud mentioned, this would truly only be useful during a load test... Meaning while the bike was running down the road at mid range 4K-6Krpm for the desired 13.8 reading....

Dave

thats what i was thinking. u could set up the idle with the gunson to tune each carb. then tune the cruise and mid with the o2 while driving.
do your plugs , give u the color u want , tan?

Nope, no tan what so ever... I have never been able to achieve any indication or slight coloring of tan....

During me research and quest for learning carb jetting, I discussed this with Larry & plum and here's the deal... Makes perfect sense....

Due to corn ethanol and other additives here for air pollutants in AZ as well as what I've done in my engine build, TAN is just not going to happen...

Then throw into the theory of the "How to Read Spark Plugs Correctly" tan is not necessarily what your looking for... See when that article was most likely first written we had leaded gasoline and who knows what in the fuel...

Now I'm sure some of you may be obtaining a TAN color in your fuel supplies in your area, who knows and frankly doesn't matter for my situation...

Ground banding strap...
Insulator speckle for pre/post detonations...
And ESPECIALLY Base ring...

These three variables, AFR measurements, emission test results, head conditions & Port and Polish CFM flow, timing, performance cams and the almighty how she performs tell me everything I need to know....

Long story short :blink: , nope NO TAN!... :laugh:

OMR

Old Man Rock wrote:

Nope, no tan what so ever... I have never been able to achieve any indication or slight coloring of tan....

During me research and quest for learning carb jetting, I discussed this with Larry & plum and here's the deal... Makes perfect sense....

Due to corn ethanol and other additives here for air pollutants in AZ as well as what I've done in my engine build, TAN is just not going to happen...

Then throw into the theory of the "How to Read Spark Plugs Correctly" tan is not necessarily what your looking for... See when that article was most likely first written we had leaded gasoline and who knows what in the fuel...

Now I'm sure some of you may be obtaining a TAN color in your fuel supplies in your area, who knows and frankly doesn't matter for my situation...

Ground banding strap...
Insulator speckle for pre/post detonations...
And ESPECIALLY Base ring...

These three variables, AFR measurements, emission test results, head conditions & Port and Polish CFM flow, timing, performance cams and the almighty how she performs tell me everything I need to know....

Long story short :blink: , nope NO TAN!... :laugh:

OMR

i agree with everything u said.
i could no longer predict the carb adjustments by plug color. i felt i could a couple of years ago with my last motor and vm carbs, but not now. i cant get repeating results with the metal base ring either. so last year i started to develop a tune by feel approach. i'm sure it may not be spot on , but it FEELS like it is.at least i cant feel any week spots. i would love to test the feel method with the aid of the 02 sensor, just to verify things. mostly it would give me the confidence to lean out the cruise jetting to improve mileage, without worry..
Just curious, what color are the plugs? mine are dark brown, after 4500 miles .

Yeah, I used to get a nice tan color on the plugs, but nowadays it's all different shades of gray. Usually the tip and insulator are a very light gray, but everywhere else is much darker gray. With the same jetting on all four carbs, I usually see the middle two plugs show up a litle richer looking than the outer two.