OMR: Emission Tester AVI Clip.....

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

I've seen this guys work, phenomenal.... Somewhat eerie on how realistic his pieces are...

Off to Chicago... Hooking up with Sax tonight...

OMR

thank god,thought you said you were hooking up for sex tonight! :woohoo:

I did... SEX = SAX... :blink: :woohoo: :laugh:

650ed wrote:

My method of testing the emissions is a little more straightforward and only requires a stopwatch and a helper (my wife). I start the bike up in the garage with the windows and doors shut and sealed with duct tape. My wife watches through the window and using the stop watch times how long it takes me to pass out. If I keel over in 10 minutes or less the bike is running too rich and when (if) I regain consciousness I need to lean out the mixture. If I can stay on my feet for 15 minutes without exhibiting any obvious signs of hallucinating the mixture is just about right. My wife and her friend invented this method, and except for the fact that she and her friend tend to forget to come to my aid, it usually works pretty well. Ed

Surely a better way would be to put your wife in the garage and you have the stop watch, then her friend. This way you could set the mixture while they are recovering. If you need further tests just use the children?:blink:

thats pretty cool man...kudos...

Way to go Dave. we dont understand u but, way to go.

One thing to keep in mind is that the AFR is not constant when you hold a constant throttle if the engine is accelerating. If you hold any constant throttle, as the engine speeds up the AFR goes leaner.

We're not too concerned with power at less than 1/4 throttle or so, so in that range it will tend to be lean because that's the cruising range. But above 1/4 you should be gettinmg into power AFRs, like 11.5 to 13.5 ranges.

So what you want is when you first open the throttle (past 1/4), it will be rich then as the engine RPMs go up, you want the AFR to sweep though the 12 to 13 range and end up near in the neighborhood of 13.5 or even approaching 14 when you reach redline. The gear you are in will affect the range as well.

We are also not likely to drop near idle if you are concerned with power, so the above really only applies to the RPMs where you start your power band, assuming you won't drop below that.

My 550's are very different from your bike, but if I'm at about 4000 RPM and crack the throttle open hard (but not instantly) I like to see the AFR start around 11.5 and sweep up to 13.5 or even a little beyond if i'm going really high near 10,000. That way most of the acceleration happens during the sweep from 12 to 13.5.

Dave, did u end up with the idle to cruise ratio being about the same when u used the color tune or the o2 sensor? are u still relying on both tools?

loudhvx wrote:

One thing to keep in mind is that the AFR is not constant when you hold a constant throttle if the engine is accelerating. If you hold any constant throttle, as the engine speeds up the AFR goes leaner.

We're not too concerned with power at less than 1/4 throttle or so, so in that range it will tend to be lean because that's the cruising range. But above 1/4 you should be gettinmg into power AFRs, like 11.5 to 13.5 ranges.

So what you want is when you first open the throttle (past 1/4), it will be rich then as the engine RPMs go up, you want the AFR to sweep though the 12 to 13 range and end up near in the neighborhood of 13.5 or even approaching 14 when you reach redline. The gear you are in will affect the range as well.

We are also not likely to drop near idle if you are concerned with power, so the above really only applies to the RPMs where you start your power band, assuming you won't drop below that.

My 550's are very different from your bike, but if I'm at about 4000 RPM and crack the throttle open hard (but not instantly) I like to see the AFR start around 11.5 and sweep up to 13.5 or even a little beyond if i'm going really high near 10,000. That way most of the acceleration happens during the sweep from 12 to 13.5.

BINGO RINGO!

knows his @#$%!

Colortune, AFR, listen for idle pitch, BLAH!!!!

DO IT BY FEEEEEL! :woohoo:

Hey Loud... Yup, as depicted in the chart, for max power at 4-5K rpm range is where I desire the 13.8-14.0 mark, not at idle... Interestingly enough @ 3500rpm measured in at 5.5 -5.6 thus 13.8 - 14.0 AFR... So close in a non load test...

Obviously for this test, was just testing as a tool for comparisons/reference for AZ emissions, not so much as an AFR tool...

Have to keep in mind this is a no load test so truly a non conclusive AFR test of sorts... May be close I guess but unknown without some sort of calibration verification...

When testing your system, load or no load conditions?

Ah well, good enough for me to verify my tuning for next emissions when required.

Hey Mark, I used the color tune (3 step) then synced pre emission test... Based on the emission report, a tad rich but I knew this already for as mentioned in the clip, due to engine build, compression, heat and AZ heat index, rather be rich then lean....

Sure, I could have leaned the slow jets out just as I did last year to be ~ 1/2 the standard but wanted to see where she stood in my jetting and learning in carb tuning... Not to mention the old girl, just runs superbly sweet at the present settings!

I'll tweak the slow jets leaner and re-measure for shits and giggles... I expect the measurements to decrease by .5Vdc or more thus a leaner mixture more towards emission ideal setting at Stoich 14.7...

Basically what the 5 band sensor does... Has feedback control for keeping the air gas mixture in all conditions right around this 14.7... Great for air pollutants but shiza for power... Besides, how do you feedback control a carb...:S

I know, I know, cleaner air but why did we go the performance route or why do we own 30 year old carbureated air cooled KZ's...

With that said, I want a tad richer for cooling and power but still be in the limits of the emission standards which were obtained.

Obviously more testing to accomplish.... Ewwwwwwww, home brewed Dyno anyone....

"did u end up with the idle to cruise ratio being about the same when u used the color tune or the o2 sensor"...

The more I think about your question Mark something hit me that makes good discussion... They actually work hand in hand when you truly break it down to lowest factoring...

So to anwer your question... Yes indeed...

The Gunson tool was a good teaching tool for me for I always heard how good tuners tuned their carbs by ear... Now unless you've actually experienced that during the process, WTF does that exactly mean... :S

As provided in the Gunson clip, as I was turning the slow jets for bunson blue, you can actually hear the rpm increase... WHOA!!!! I get it now!!! :woohoo:



Then on the second step, slow throttle had some more tweaks where should stay bunson blue. If tweaks slightly yellow during then procedure your still a tad rich...

The final step is rapid twist of throttle should go from bunson blue to yellow back to bunson blue...

Accomplished this for each carb then threw on the morgan for sync and well reuslts speak for themselves, passed with flying colors with no pre emission cheat tweaking... Translation, due to idle and 1500 rpm emissions only, tweak the slow jets for leaner operations for emissions....

Again, this would ruly be a non conclusive test for operations due to no load conditions and as Loud mentioned, you truly want the 13.8 - 14.0 AFR at mid range ~ 4000 - 6000rpm

This setup just provides me a good standard/reference measurement to use on my ucomping KZ1000 and in preparations to yearly emission tests...

Now, how to figure out a rear restrictive (Load) roller unit.... Brain is working over time now.... :laugh:

BTW all, hooked up with Sax and Otto last night, had some laughs and a whole slew of KZ discussions... :laugh: :laugh: