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OMR: Emission Tester AVI Clip.....
- Patton
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- Old Man Rock
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I've seen this guys work, phenomenal.... Somewhat eerie on how realistic his pieces are...
Off to Chicago... Hooking up with Sax tonight...
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- Old Man Rock
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1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Fergie
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My method of testing the emissions is a little more straightforward and only requires a stopwatch and a helper (my wife). I start the bike up in the garage with the windows and doors shut and sealed with duct tape. My wife watches through the window and using the stop watch times how long it takes me to pass out. If I keel over in 10 minutes or less the bike is running too rich and when (if) I regain consciousness I need to lean out the mixture. If I can stay on my feet for 15 minutes without exhibiting any obvious signs of hallucinating the mixture is just about right. My wife and her friend invented this method, and except for the fact that she and her friend tend to forget to come to my aid, it usually works pretty well. Ed
Surely a better way would be to put your wife in the garage and you have the stop watch, then her friend. This way you could set the mixture while they are recovering. If you need further tests just use the children?:blink:
Z650-F4 1984 UK Spec
JMC Aluminium swingarm.
Harris 4-1 exhaust.
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- 550A2
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- keep the shiny side up
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82 Honda ATC 200-sold
82 Yamaha Virago 920-sold
82 Yamaha YZ250j-kept
80 Suzuki GS 550-sold
82 Kawasaki KZ550 A2-ride all the time
79 Kawasaki KZ650 C-sold
73 Kawasaki Z1 900E-paid $200, sold $6000
86 Yamaha Radian YX600-new project
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- mark1122
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- Keep twisting it
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76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
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~ (k) / (z)
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- loudhvx
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We're not too concerned with power at less than 1/4 throttle or so, so in that range it will tend to be lean because that's the cruising range. But above 1/4 you should be gettinmg into power AFRs, like 11.5 to 13.5 ranges.
So what you want is when you first open the throttle (past 1/4), it will be rich then as the engine RPMs go up, you want the AFR to sweep though the 12 to 13 range and end up near in the neighborhood of 13.5 or even approaching 14 when you reach redline. The gear you are in will affect the range as well.
We are also not likely to drop near idle if you are concerned with power, so the above really only applies to the RPMs where you start your power band, assuming you won't drop below that.
My 550's are very different from your bike, but if I'm at about 4000 RPM and crack the throttle open hard (but not instantly) I like to see the AFR start around 11.5 and sweep up to 13.5 or even a little beyond if i'm going really high near 10,000. That way most of the acceleration happens during the sweep from 12 to 13.5.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- mark1122
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- Keep twisting it
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76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
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~ ~ _- \,
~ (k) / (z)
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- TeK9iNe
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One thing to keep in mind is that the AFR is not constant when you hold a constant throttle if the engine is accelerating. If you hold any constant throttle, as the engine speeds up the AFR goes leaner.
We're not too concerned with power at less than 1/4 throttle or so, so in that range it will tend to be lean because that's the cruising range. But above 1/4 you should be gettinmg into power AFRs, like 11.5 to 13.5 ranges.
So what you want is when you first open the throttle (past 1/4), it will be rich then as the engine RPMs go up, you want the AFR to sweep though the 12 to 13 range and end up near in the neighborhood of 13.5 or even approaching 14 when you reach redline. The gear you are in will affect the range as well.
We are also not likely to drop near idle if you are concerned with power, so the above really only applies to the RPMs where you start your power band, assuming you won't drop below that.
My 550's are very different from your bike, but if I'm at about 4000 RPM and crack the throttle open hard (but not instantly) I like to see the AFR start around 11.5 and sweep up to 13.5 or even a little beyond if i'm going really high near 10,000. That way most of the acceleration happens during the sweep from 12 to 13.5.
BINGO RINGO!
knows his @#$%!
Colortune, AFR, listen for idle pitch, BLAH!!!!
DO IT BY FEEEEEL! :woohoo:
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79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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- Old Man Rock
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Obviously for this test, was just testing as a tool for comparisons/reference for AZ emissions, not so much as an AFR tool...
Have to keep in mind this is a no load test so truly a non conclusive AFR test of sorts... May be close I guess but unknown without some sort of calibration verification...
When testing your system, load or no load conditions?
Ah well, good enough for me to verify my tuning for next emissions when required.
Hey Mark, I used the color tune (3 step) then synced pre emission test... Based on the emission report, a tad rich but I knew this already for as mentioned in the clip, due to engine build, compression, heat and AZ heat index, rather be rich then lean....
Sure, I could have leaned the slow jets out just as I did last year to be ~ 1/2 the standard but wanted to see where she stood in my jetting and learning in carb tuning... Not to mention the old girl, just runs superbly sweet at the present settings!
I'll tweak the slow jets leaner and re-measure for shits and giggles... I expect the measurements to decrease by .5Vdc or more thus a leaner mixture more towards emission ideal setting at Stoich 14.7...
Basically what the 5 band sensor does... Has feedback control for keeping the air gas mixture in all conditions right around this 14.7... Great for air pollutants but shiza for power... Besides, how do you feedback control a carb...:S
I know, I know, cleaner air but why did we go the performance route or why do we own 30 year old carbureated air cooled KZ's...
With that said, I want a tad richer for cooling and power but still be in the limits of the emission standards which were obtained.
Obviously more testing to accomplish.... Ewwwwwwww, home brewed Dyno anyone....
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Old Man Rock
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The more I think about your question Mark something hit me that makes good discussion... They actually work hand in hand when you truly break it down to lowest factoring...
So to anwer your question... Yes indeed...
The Gunson tool was a good teaching tool for me for I always heard how good tuners tuned their carbs by ear... Now unless you've actually experienced that during the process, WTF does that exactly mean... :S
As provided in the Gunson clip, as I was turning the slow jets for bunson blue, you can actually hear the rpm increase... WHOA!!!! I get it now!!! :woohoo:
Then on the second step, slow throttle had some more tweaks where should stay bunson blue. If tweaks slightly yellow during then procedure your still a tad rich...
The final step is rapid twist of throttle should go from bunson blue to yellow back to bunson blue...
Accomplished this for each carb then threw on the morgan for sync and well reuslts speak for themselves, passed with flying colors with no pre emission cheat tweaking... Translation, due to idle and 1500 rpm emissions only, tweak the slow jets for leaner operations for emissions....
Again, this would ruly be a non conclusive test for operations due to no load conditions and as Loud mentioned, you truly want the 13.8 - 14.0 AFR at mid range ~ 4000 - 6000rpm
This setup just provides me a good standard/reference measurement to use on my ucomping KZ1000 and in preparations to yearly emission tests...
Now, how to figure out a rear restrictive (Load) roller unit.... Brain is working over time now.... :laugh:
BTW all, hooked up with Sax and Otto last night, had some laughs and a whole slew of KZ discussions... :laugh: :laugh:
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.