Pods on F.I.

I did notice that the 81 GPZ had a dedicated harness for the FI. Can this harness be used with a later system?

Hi
It could have been my bike that McDroid mentioned.

It is a Z1100 A3 but has GPZ FI
It runs an airbox but does not have an airflow meter (earlier GPZ did) also the ECU is different to the earlier model. My z1 Classic obviously does run with an airflow meter.

Since this picture was taken I have had the tank, side panels and fenders painted by Dream Machine here in the UK.
Dyna coils are being fitted and the wheels will match- don't know whether to go gold on both wheels or stock silver ally. Also have a new seat. Will be finished very soon!

Love to get this on bike of the month one day- if it deserves it of course.

Tommotbird

Tommotbird wrote:

Hi
It could have been my bike that McDroid mentioned.

It is a Z1100 A3 but has GPZ FI
It runs an airbox but does not have an airflow meter (earlier GPZ did) also the ECU is different to the earlier model. My z1 Classic obviously does run with an airflow meter.

Since this picture was taken I have had the tank, side panels and fenders painted by Dream Machine here in the UK.
Dyna coils are being fitted and the wheels will match- don't know whether to go gold on both wheels or stock silver ally. Also have a new seat. Will be finished very soon!

Love to get this on bike of the month one day- if it deserves it of course.

Tommotbird

Yes! It was your bike I was thinking of. Thanks for jumping in.

What did you do for a weiring harness for the EFI.

larrycavan wrote:
2 - Variable Resistor in place of the Air Temp Sesor
3 - Ground the Engine Temp Sensor Wire.

Tuck the air temp sensor under the side cover or near the battery. Zip tie it to the wiring. It doesn't have to reside inside the pod filter. It works just fine living in any area the wires let it reach.

Larry C[/quote]

Larry,
You say I can move the air temp sensor as far as it will reach but also to replace it with a variable resistor. I'd like to make some sense of this and grounding the engine temp sensor wire. Was that grounded when part of the airbox?
I could probably understand this all better if the parts to the bike were all here in front of me.
Thanks,
Stephen

darmahsd wrote:

larrycavan wrote:
2 - Variable Resistor in place of the Air Temp Sesor
3 - Ground the Engine Temp Sensor Wire.

Tuck the air temp sensor under the side cover or near the battery. Zip tie it to the wiring. It doesn't have to reside inside the pod filter. It works just fine living in any area the wires let it reach.

Larry C

Larry,
You say I can move the air temp sensor as far as it will reach but also to replace it with a variable resistor. I'd like to make some sense of this and grounding the engine temp sensor wire. Was that grounded when part of the airbox?
I could probably understand this all better if the parts to the bike were all here in front of me.
Thanks,
Stephen[/quote]

As I recall, gounding the engine temp sensor tells the computer to go full lean.

The air temp sensor we used to tuck in there next to the battery most of time. Like I said, it's not too fussy about where it's located as long as you don't have it laying agains the engine case.

If you wanted to, you could zip tie it to one of the filters. I'd probably position it between 2 adjacent filter pairs and secure it with a zip tie......just to get started with the tuning.

The service manual will give you a resistance range. My manual is for the 82. I'll check it for you if you don't have one. The resistance on the air temp sensor will obviously change with temperature. That being the case, it's a matter of reviewing the service manual to see wich way leans vs richens. Higher / lower resistance.

Obviously a variable resistor would be the economical route to start your tuning with. If you are not satisfied with the tunability of that setup. Get the adjustable pressure regulator.

Adjusting the TPS is always good to do. With or without regulator.

PM me or email me if you need the resistance values for the temp sensor.


Larry C

OK, I dug threw all the stuff I had in the Garage< and found some parts.
1) Weiring harness from a 83/84 GPz1100
2) ECU 82 GPZ1100
3) Throttle bodies 83/84 complete with manifold position sensor & injectors.
4) Injection relay
I looked threw my manuals and did not find any major snags in how to hook it up (YET). I know I will be back here to ask questions. I know that I will require an air temperature sensor and Head temp sensor.

Larry,
I have the service manual for my '84. I'll get the AFPR and when I install the pods I'll also check the resistance, adjust the TPS and new regulator like you advised and go from there. Thanks again for the tips.

Stephen

darmahsd wrote:

Larry,
I have the service manual for my '84. I'll get the AFPR and when I install the pods I'll also check the resistance, adjust the TPS and new regulator like you advised and go from there. Thanks again for the tips.

Stephen

Stephen,

Yes, the adjustable regulator and adjusting TPS is the way to go.

Run your stock air sensor.

Grounding the engine temp was part of the trouble shooting process. I didn't get time to look over my manual today but as I recall, grounded, it causes the ECU to go to it's leanest metering condition.

If you opted to try a variable resistor, it will be a fixed value once you adjust it. It's not something you dial while you're riding the bike.


Otakar,

I'm thinking there was a slight difference in the harness for the 83-85 models over the 82. I have the 82 manual and an 83 harness. I'll check.

In the 83 harness theres a resistor not shown in the manual for the 82. I can't recall if the diagram for the 84 manual showed it either.

I have a "questionable" late model ECU. Could be 82 or 83. I'd have to cross the part number. If you need on to test with, holler and I'll send it to you. Please don't break it :laugh:

To adapt the DFI to a standard carbureted model won't be that difficult. You need the relays, a pump, the DFI harness & ECU.

Also should get a return bung and make a mount for it in the bottom of your tank. Otherwise, you'll need a shut off valve for when you want to pull the tank. I bought mine 20 years ago and am now just getting ready to make use of it!

I would also consider moving up in battery size. Possibly a police bike stator as well. That's something still on my list.

Alternative could be to move to LED tail light and turn sigs. Get as much load off the stock battery as possible surely couldn't hurt.

Start out right. Get the injectors cleaned and balanced. Otherwise you may play hell chasing your tail when you try to tune it.

New injectors would be expensive. Finding car injectors is an option but then you have to contend with fuel hookups.

Mounting the ECU in a good spot if you keep the airbox may be a bit of a challange. That & the tunability of the Microsquirt are the main reasons I chose it.

In reality, with an adjustabel fuel pressure regulator, there's no reason why you can't make that system work well on your street bike. One challange would be cams with lot's of overlap. Drag racing is one thing. A refined streetbike is another matter....

I'll take some pictures of my bored out throttle bodies and post them for you guys. They're pretty sweet and flow great!



Regards,

Larry C

I just bought an adjustable fuel pressure regulator yesterday. The cams I have are .410 lift with 266 duration 1140 kit (10.5:1). So the whole setup is pretty mild. The difference between the harnesses from the 82 to the 83/84 is that there is an LED wire that gives a trouble light on the instruments in the later ones, and the 30 Ohm resistor to the engine temp sensor, I presume to make the engine run a bit richer when hot. The ECU also is made to accommodate the trouble light function that is all. Otherwise all the other hookups are identical. I will be running pod filters and have NO temp sensors available to me at this time. I will therefore be grounding the engine temp sensor threw a switch which I can use as a in richening switch for cold starts and than turn it on to ground the wire after the engine heats up. The air temp sensor is a different story. I do not have one and Kaw no longer has it. I can see if an automotive one will work.
The Throttle bodies are 34mm and therefore, I think large enough for everything but the peak top end. If I need that, than I will get nitrous later in the game. The only thing I think I would like help with now, is the air temp sensor advice.

Otto

I forgot. The only other major mods will be that I AM running ALL low drain lights, such as LEDs and Xenon Headlight. Also I will be installing a rather large oil cooler from a 95 ZR1100. I also still require a good fuel pump still which will give me about 40 or so PSI. I think a fuel pump from a ZX6 should be more than adequate. Here is a link to the project. kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=11&id=169462

Otto

I noticed other benefits of the FI throttle bodies. They take the same air cleaners as the old 26/28 Mikuni carbs. They are 1.5" shorter than my 34CVs, so lots of extra room. Since I have a GPZ tank, I will have no problems with the fuel return.