Pods on F.I.

This has probably been discussed before. I understand K&N pods vs. airbox on CV carbs. Long before public cyberspace and forums, I learned by doing, with a CB750F. I tried the CV's with two double K&N's. I know you can't tune those carbs too much, so with a Kerker, it just didn't run as good as it did with the high volume of air that the stock airbox gave the CV'S.
Well, I still have these K&N's, and figure before I try to get rid of them, I'd try them on my '84 1100 GPZ with the stock F.I. This time, based on the advice of anyone on this forum in the know when it comes to F.I. I've read some stuff from Lorcan and a few others. I have been running a Supertrapp/Kerker style pipe with a baffle for many years. I'm going to add one of those Chinese adjustable fuel pressure regulators you see on eBay and leave it at that. I like the F.I. and figure I can dial up the pressure to suite the header/pod mod. Any thoughts?
Will it be worth the trouble?
Thanks,
Stephen

Hello Stephen:

I think the big stumbling block to why more older FI weren't converted to pods is that there is an air temperature sensor (in the airbox) that reads for all four FI's simultaneously. You'll have to account for that sensor (and any changes in the readings) as the ECU will still expect it to be in the airbox and working correctly.

i think your right there Mcd if its like the gpz1100b1 that air temp sensor is a major part of the fuel injection.

id convert it to bs34's and pods or stick with the fuel injection if its able to compensate and still works.

Is that an air temp sensor or an air FLOW sensor???

Or should I say "air flow meter"? When it comes to BS34 CV carbs, I can make them work as well as smoothboars with pods. There are a couple of mods I do to them and they run better than 29 or larger smoothboars.

When I had an '82, (T- Boned by a signal runnin' senior citizen) I remember doing research to learn that the system was vastly different than the analog based system of the '81 and older GPZ's and FI Classics. They had the airflow meter as part of the airbox. I don't believe there is anything in the later DFI airboxes which makes me more inclined to think about the pods, but I certainly could be wrong. I've only replaced the airfilter in mine and never disassembled it. I don't recall any wiring to it, but if so, then I'll just keep the airbox in place.
It makes sense to have an air temp sensor in there to take a reading on the airbox volume that's distributed to the four throttle bodies. Could I wire one sensor to each of the two double pods and tee them to the original sensor wire if that is the case?

Thanks,
Stephen

If it is an air temp sensor it can read from any single pod, I would think. If it is an air flow sensor, then you need to stick with factory airbox.

Three Ways to Adjust Mixture on the old Kawasaki DFI setups are:

1 - Adjustable Fuel Presure Regulator
2 - Variable Resistor in place of the Air Temp Sesor
3 - Ground the Engine Temp Sensor Wire.

Tuck the air temp sensor under the side cover or near the battery. Zip tie it to the wiring. It doesn't have to reside inside the pod filter. It works just fine living in any area the wires let it reach.

Best method is the Adjustable fuel Pressure Regulator. We ran them on lots and lots of GPz11's with all sorts of engine configurations from Stock with header to all out drag bikes.

Sid Pogue [Pogue Machine in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma probably still can hook you up with one]

For pods, stock motor with a pipe, I'd say about 38-39 lbs of fuel pressure will get the job done.

If you want it to really pick up some HP, talk to Sid about the ProFlow Throttle Bodies. They killed 33 Mikunis for HP.

The thing with DFI is this. When you put more fuel pressure to the system for performance mods, it richens up the system at the bottom too.

You can get a good idle back by drilling out the plugs over the Throttle Position Sensor. Then loosen the two screws holding the sensor in place.

Set your idle up to about 1250 and slowlys adjust the sensor [rotate it cw /ccw] until the highest idle is achieved. Lock it down right there, reset idle to 1000 and take it for a ride.

Be very careful when you drill out the TPS cover plugs. They tended to want to spin in the plastic and mess up the cover holes.

Hope that helps. Yes, absolutely its tunable and will work fine with pods or stacks using the stock DFI computer.

If this is an old analog system with the air gate, they were not so friendly as the DFI. Air Gate Bounce was a problem with that setup. Kaw ditched that for DFI.

Larry C

That's some great info, Larry. What does the variable resistor change, where does it go and where/which type do you get one? Sorry to bombard with questions. Thanks.

Stephen

Has anyone attempted to place one of these systems on a non previously FI system. a system that does not come with the required weiring harness. If so, can you point me in the right direction.

Otakar...there is a fellow (from the UK) who posted on this site several years ago who acquired a running KZ1100A2 with a full GPz1100 FI system installed. I don't know how easy it would be to dig out his contact info from the archives...I haven't tried yet.

Edit: The fellow who runs the KZ1300.com site also converts early model 1300's to FI by using late model 1300 FI systems.

I have most of the parts like the ECU and Throttle bodies and some other parts. What I would like to do is to make a dedicated wire harness just for the FI system. There is a lot of good info in this thread to give a good start.