Mikuni BS34 info

thanx skyman...so this pilot screw is an adjustment, i presume that this screw is part of the synchronizing program that will likely be the next thing if these damn carbs ever get back together...i do believe that i am the first person to crack these babbies open...what is that, 26 years of crud? yeah...thats what it looked like...with shiny parts under the crud.

That plug in the float bowl is just a plug...it will fall right out if you rub it right...it gets a rubber washer and then the gasket and bowl that holds it in.

Hey...I like to put very fine oil on my parts when i put 'em together...including a light dose on the black paper gaskets. I chose the stuff Mom used to use on her Norton...."3-in-one-oil" Mom knows best you know...so the question here is...Do you think i light coat of oil on those spendy diaphragm rubbers would be help or a disaster?

my gaskets i made needed to be carefully fine tuned...they will work! Have to be careful that the gasket won't rub against the float...a sharp knife is essential.

stay tuned.

No, the pilot screws are not used for synchonization. They control the fuel mixture at idle.

There are three screws used for synchronizing. They are located on throttle rocker mechanism. There is one between the 1 & 2 carbs, another between the 3 & 4 carbs, and the last one is between 2 & 3. When you sync the carbs, you first sync 1 to 2, then 3 to 4, and lastly, you sync 2 to 3 using the adjuster screw between 2 & 3.

If the float bowl plug falls out easily, you should replace the o-ring so that it fits more snugly. You don't want it falling out with engine vibration.

As for oiling the diaphrams, I would advise against this. Keep them dry.

Allrighty then...the carbs are together now...Yay!

The plug covering the pilot screw came out with a small drill and then a sheet metal screw tapped into that...some of Moms oil went in there to soak for five minutes and a few twists of that sheet metal screw popped the plug right out...the plug is re-usable with a dab of sealer to cover the hole...keeps dirt out.

It's a good thing i took that plug off, the pilot screw was as crusty as the rest of the assembly was. Upon turning the first pilot screw inwards to check the factory setting, it turned one and three quarters turn until it felt gently seated...i may have ruined that one...there was crud in there and now there is a ding sort of scratch on the end of the pilot screw...the tip looks fine however. If you look at the tips of these things with an electron microscope, you can see that the tiny ends are "stair stepped" with what appears to be three different graduations in girth. The other three pilot screws would not turn in...they already felt seated. Maybe there was crud in the way...iduuno. So i do not really know what is a good initial setting for these raskals...can someone comment on an appropriate number of turns to set these pilot screws?

My homemade gaskets fit pretty good after some fine tuning and ruining one. We will see if they hold fuel... stay tuned.

Those diaphrams on top looked in good shape...i must have a compulsive disorder because i simply could not refrain from smearing a smathering of Mom's 3-in-one on them...i just could not stop myself even against trusted advice to the contrary...ughhh...they seem to like the oil, and i am happy that they are in good shape...I priced those diaphragms at a whopping $175.00 each for original eqipment from old stock! I hope the oil does not ruin them...stay tuned. If i had to replace those...it would be close to double what i paid for the bike!

The Sync adjustment screws were not diturbed in this rebuild. They still have the dab of yellow thread lock on them that was put there by the factory technition from when the bike was new. Maybe the settings are still valid.

here are some pictures of these items...maybe they will help some one else. We will soon see if that help is about what to do...or what not to do. And i do have more pictures of this rebuild if anyone is interested.

I did not replace any parts on this rebuild...other than the O-rigs in the float bowl and the homemade gaskets. I do have some doubts about the integrity of at least one of the valve needles.

So now the carbs are going on the bike...stay tuned!

thanx to Skyman for all of your help, I would not have gotten this far so soon without it....peace

and the plug removal

diaphrams

done...note the factory yellow glue on the synch adjustments...should have been Kawasaki green i think...don't you?

shade_tree wrote:

If you look at the tips of these things with an electron microscope, you can see that the tiny ends are "stair stepped" with what appears to be three different graduations in girth.

You've got an electron microscope in your garage???

I wanna party with you, man! :laugh:

Regarding replacing the diaphrams, let's hope it never comes to that. But if it does, there are cheaper sources for new (non-OEM) ones.

For example:

www.nrp-carbs.com/

Still not cheap, but better than $175.

Yeah...that micro scope is handy in the toolbox. I would like to party with you too skyman...you are the "Tao of Kaw". the "Zen of Z", the "Bishop of Bike" ...but i have no garage, just a tree.


For those interested...it is true, that when your carburtors are pouring out fuel due to crud build up within them, that there will be fuel pouring into the cylinder bores as well....and yes, it seeps past the rings...and of course there will be lots of fuel in the crank case oil. I know this as a fact. My crank case has about an extra inch of fluid in it now becuase of the fuel that got in there. Ughh...so i chased down an oil flter just now instead of putting on carbs...will continue tomorrow.

peace.

Dang.

The monkey put he carbs together wrong. The monkey got into the rum. Apearantly he cannot read a manual. The diaphragms went together backwards, I have a drunken, dixlexic bench monkey that can't read...sigh.

The Big O-ring gasket that comes with the oil K&N oil filter is too big...I installed a generouse leak by using the new O-ring. Had to drain the oil again and put the old O-ring back on...geeez.

The carbs came off easy enuff...i have been trying for hours to sneak those intake box boots onto the carbs...they won't go and my knuckles hurt. Is there a standard procedure for installing the carbs back on the bike and getting those intake boots to get on there?

persistance. determination. bandages.

shade_tree wrote:

The carbs came off easy enuff...i have been trying for hours to sneak those intake box boots onto the carbs...they won't go and my knuckles hurt. Is there a standard procedure for installing the carbs back on the bike and getting those intake boots to get on there?

I can tell you how I do it.

First, I spray a little silicon lube spray on the intake boots. This isn't really necessary, but it may help a bit. Are your boots soft & pliable, or hard and stiff? It makes a big difference. If they are hard, I'd suggest replacing them. It's only money.

I then slide the carbs in with the carb openings above the rubber boots. With the carbs slid half way in, attach the throttle cable. Then slide the carbs the rest of the way in. Next angle the carb front down and slide them into the intake manifolds. Then roate the back side of the carbs down so that they push down the airbox intake boots.

Next I use a rear shock adjuster tool (which looks something like this )--you can use any NON-SHARP hook tool--to hook the top lip of the boot and gently pull it up over the top of the carb intake port. Be very careful that you do not puncture the rubber boot.

Next, tighten down the front-side boot clamps, then use a flat screwdriver to carefully move the intake boot springs into place.

It's a little intimidating at first. But with a little practice, it becomes a fairly easy procedure.

I do beleive the motorcycle is suffereing from "hardening of the intake boot syndrome"

I am going to try your method step by step...everything is clean and slippery, the boots are so hard that there is only little flex. I can get the assembly to be just almost on there...then the whole program goes to hell.

going to price boots now. If the ones i have were flexible
i would be done with it hours ago. So the new ones are soft and plyable is what I am gathering.

my thanx to you again oh "Sultan of Sidedraft"

peace