Mikuni BS34 info

Here is the carb bracket for a KZ1000 Police it is Kawasaki part number 39184-1013 approx. $26.00 The throttle cable is Kawasaki number 54021-1124 (x2) approx $26.00 each or Motion pro

03-0132 (pull) @17.99 and 03-0234 (push) @ 13.99.

Or you could just get the pull cable to use the bracket you have.

Note that the bracket shown has an L shape where the bucket that holds the cable end is lower than the flat bracket shown by the guy who needs a cable. This means that the exposed part of the cable is about 1" longer for the flat bracket so a cop bike cable won't work with the flat bracket as it comes from Motion Pro.

wiredgeorge wrote:

Note that the bracket shown has an L shape where the bucket that holds the cable end is lower than the flat bracket shown by the guy who needs a cable. This means that the exposed part of the cable is about 1" longer for the flat bracket so a cop bike cable won't work with the flat bracket as it comes from Motion Pro.

What cable do you suggest I could try?

I found out today the carbs came off of a '82 KZ750 and a local shop happens to have one so hopefully by Saturday I'll be riding this thing.Thanks for the help guys it's appreciated.

I hope i have this in the right place...it's my first time!

Seeking guidance and wisdom regarding 1982 KZ1000LTD. I picked this bike up last week. It looks like new and has only 16,000 miles. The lic. tags are 1997 so it has been garaged for 11 years at least which brings me to the carbs. The bike fired up and sputtered on ether...removed the carbs and sprayed three cans of carb cleaner in and around them...shook 'em around a bit and put 'em back on....the thing ran! No idle tho and fuel pouring out carb #1 at the intake bore. The specs i found here at KZR indicate that these carbs are Mikuni BS34, however they look a bit different than the ones already posted here in this thread. So...firstly i would like to know if these are BS34's. There are markings, on the #1 carb: 1358/F181, and on the #4 carb: 1358/F172. I cannot see other markings on the other two carbs.

I was quoted $28 per rebuild kit locally...and quoted $350 to $400 to have a local bike mechanic do it. I wonder if these prices sound reasonable and normal? What i also would like to know...is can i do this myself? I have not owned a bike in over twenty years, but i have rebuilt several Holly and Carter automobile carbs successfully, those, however do not need to be synchronized and these on the bike do. Sounds scary. I think i can do it...but i have no manual...can someone please recommend a GOOD manual?

these are some pictures of my carbs that do not look exactly like the ones the other gentleman posted, but look very similar. I wonder if my fuel leeking issue can be solved without an entire rebuild? It seems to me that a full on rebuild is where the smart money is, but the synchronizing has me a bit intimidated.

any comments about this bike and ways to deal with a bike that has been garaged for many years, without running, would be appreciated.

thank you guys for all of the cool info i have found here so far!

peace.
Keen Kid Kelly's (Koroded) Kawasaki KZ
1982 KZ1000 LTD
Grants Pass Oregon

They look like the BS34's used on the 81-82 KZ1000 CSR and LTD.

But you really need to start a new thread all your own

Kelly, welcome to KZR. Great to have another Oregon rider on board. I actually bought my '78 KZ1000 from your neighborhood (Rogue River) .

Yes, those do indeed look like BS34 carbs. If you've worked on auto carbs before, you sound handy enough to tackle this job. Don't be intimidated by four carbs in parallel, synching, etc. If I were you, I wouldn't spend $300-400 to have someone work on your carbs--unless you really don't feel comfortable with mechanic work, and if that's the case, you should buy a newer bike. With the help of the manual, and the resources on this site, you should be able to do the work yourself--and learn something in the process.

First get your hands on a factory service manual. You can download a PDF version of the manual for your bike from here:

www.metrovationinc.com/christemple/kz.pdf

It sounds like your carbs need to be opened up and thorougly cleaned. The overflowing carb is likely caused by a stuck float, or worn float valve. Sometimes a good *whack* on the flow boal with screwdriver handle will free a stuck float and fix the problem. But realistically, you really need to remove the float bowl and inspect the float and float valve to make sure there is not some spec of debris holding the valve open. While you are in there, remove all the jets and spray carb cleaner in all the passages, then blow them out with compressed air. Make sure all the passages and jets are clear.

As for synching the carbs, the procedure is explained in the manual. You'll either need a set of vacuum gauages (available at Z1Enterprises.com, and other places). Or, for just a few bucks, you can build your own manometer using a yardstick, some vinyl tubing, and some gear oil. Your can read about it here.

I built my own fancy set of vacuum gauges (pic below), but I find that the cheapo vinyl tube gauge allows me to make more accurate adjustments.

Thank you skyman...it's amazing how many goodies are stashed in the barns and out buildings here in OR...every barn has an old jewel in it waiting to be fired up again...i just found one and it's this KZ 1000!

So the Kawaski shop in medford said there is no "rebuild kit" available for these carbs, but the individual parts are available...$28 each for just the float valve goodies! Geez! they also said the same as you about the the fuel pouring out...need to inspect and clean those valves.

I will look into the vacuum gauge program you mentioned but in the mean while...the bowls are comming off today, and the parts cleaned...do you think i will have access to clean all of the different tiny passage ways from within the bowl? And....what are the diaphram looking covers on the tops of the carbs...what are those and do they care if they get carb cleaner on or in them? Somewhere in these threads it was mentioned that if the fuel is pouring out of the carbs like that, then it has also gotten into the piston bore and perhaps past the rings and into the crank case oil...is this true?

thanks for the link to the online manual...i am on that next.

thanx again...this place is cool...i will be back soon.

i seem to have posted my stuff in someone elses thread...apologies, i am new and it seemed apropriate at the time since i am dealing with the BS34's...should i move my posting on this to my own thread...or just leave it here since it already is? I don't want to step on any toes here.

peace
~K~

Kelly,

I would recommend that you become familiar with a company called Z1 Enterprises ( www.z1enterprises.com ). They are hands down the BEST source for parts (and good advice) that you will find for these old Kawis. Jeff Saunders, the owner, is a frequent poster here on this site. He and his crew are an invaluable resource for vintage Kawi owners. I would recommend that you go to his website to see what they have for carb rebuild kits. I am SURE that they have what you need, and they'll give you the best pricing you'll find anywhere. If you don't see it on their website, call them. They can get it.

Many Kawi dealers aren't too anxious to help out owners of vintage bikes. Most will not service them at all. And some refuse to even sell parts for older bikes, or take the time to help you find the right part. At Z1E, they SPECIALIZE in older bikes.

But before you invest in the rebuild kits, first clean your carbs and see how the bike runs after that. If you are able to solve your fuel overflowing problem with a good cleaning, why waste money on rebuild kits?

Regarding the diaphrams, you will want to CAREFULLY remove these before spraying carb cleaner around in the carbs. The diaphrams are made of rubber, and carb cleaner will eat it. These diaphams are PRICEY to replace, so treat them with great care. You do not want to tear or puncture them as your bike will not run properly if you do. Your carbs are called "CV" style carbs (constant velocity). These carbs use vacuum pressure to lift the needle slides which allows fuel to flow through the mid-throttle range--where most of your riding is done. If the diaphrams leak, the slides will not raise properly, and your engine will not run right.

The other style of carbs use mechanical slides where the throttle cable directly raises and lowers the slides.

You should also remove any parts that have o-rings before spraying with carb cleaner. It eats rubber and will deteriorate o-rings.

As for gas leaking into the crankcase, yes, you need to check for that. Open up your oil filler cap and take a sniff. If you smell gasoline, then you should change your oil before running the engine again.