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My 77-KZ 1000 also has a similar set up. 1327cc 10.5:1 Wiseco pistons and Mikuni 33 smoothbores. The head is ported with 37.5 / 31 valves. Cams are Web 435" in and out. The head was a stage 3, ported by the now closed MCU, (Motorcycles Unlimited) out of Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, work done by "Big Carl", Carl Ahlfeldt. This set up allowed the bike to be carefully kick-started instead of a cart. I am also still learning about what combo is best. Good luck to you and stay safe.....

Same here, everything I have was bought used, low budget.
I was looking for 4 years for some 38 Trons and could not find them (seem to be a very popular size) My motor guy said the 40's would work best on a hot humid day which is no issue in the Summer. I was originally going to build a 1197 motor as it would have been a better match for the head but a low dollar big block came up that already had a 1327 kit in it.
I am kick starting mine with a retard on the timing plate.
Is it a ideal combo - No, but it will get me down the track just the same.
Matching component sizing is easier when your not constrained by what is available on the cheap.
There are guys around here that bracket race with $30K into the motor.

I am almost finished building this bike, I bought it as a roller without a engine. I built the engine on my own.
It is a small tire bike, 7" slick. It has a full custom frame and supposedly weighs 350 LBS fully built.
The PO had timing slips that showed 9.20's with a 1075 motor. I was told the original builder had run as fast as 8.60 with a alcohol injected 1327.
I have a local guy who does all my motor work so he helped source some parts, did a valve job on the head and finish porting it sized for the cams. He also welded and trued the crank for me, not up to Pearson standards but pretty close. I am running hand clutch, undercut 5 speed... Its just a play bike, Test N Tune night type build.

wrote:

There are guys around here that bracket race with $30K into the motor.


 

I tell people that they can make a small fortune drag racing bikes -- you start with a large fortune and then proceed to make it into a small fortune....   

So anyone have a lead on a head and cams that can get me down the track ???

There is nothing on Ebay right now, just go on there and search "Kawasaki Drag Bike Cylinder Head". A seller called "oinkjohnson" out of Ohio parts out a lot of drag bikes buts its cyclical, sometimes good stuff takes months to appear. I bought my cams off of him but its 95% auction style, there are other sellers but he seems to be the most consistent.

Here are the suggested combinations :
kzzone.com/kits.html
kzzone.com/heads.html
kzzone.com/cams.html

If you have a stock head you might consider building off what you have as obtaining a used one might take a while.
 

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThis doesn’t help much but to maybe structure your budget. I couple recently sold on eBay for $300ish, and they were no gems. Bone stock broken fins. Basically a core to rebuild. Not sure why but I’m seeing heads sold without the cam caps. Not a good buy. Then I see cam cap selling for over $100. 

Then there this 

You might check the KZMarket on FB as well as www.facebook.com/groups/232442287785614
Jake Cooper has lots of KZ parts and bikes.
Steve

I guess you can still pre-order a new one. (just a thought)....... KZ1000 Reproduction Z1 Cylinder Head, Silver | Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A.

 Jake Cooper has lots of KZ parts and bikes.

I think he’s Oink Johnson. 

Ya he has one I'm going to get ...just seeing what else is out there and what ppl think my best option is ... I think it's just a bad time of the year a lot more parts will come available when the season is over I bet..
....Thanks Guys !!!!!

I think the factory remakes are super expensive !

You are correct, not a great time right now for used parts.

I started my project with a used KZ street head that already had 37/31 valves and a decent port job.
I bought bigger cams then cleared the head and cover for those cams on my own, had my motor guy sink the seats to make the different cam base circles work and maintain a good valve to valve distance. He then did some more porting that the head was lacking to go drag racing. The head was flycut by me and I assembled it with 520 springs after checking the installed height spring pressure. I also upgraded it with M8 exhaust studs.
Maybe it sounds like a lot of work but it really was not all that bad.
The used head cost me $150, cams cost $200, valve job/porting $150, shim under parts $40, springs $60 = $600