Goodbye crank bearings

That's the spirit Elfarm, you know it makes sense 

So the crank bearings are good? How do you know? The rod bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced if loosened. On the 1000's you measure side play but I don't know if that applies here. The bearings are color coded for size. I'd be sure the big end is good before going any further. 
Steve

Wether or not it makes sense I’m pretty sure my issue was this and not a bad rod or crank bearing. I don’t want to open up a new can of worms by not being able to put everything back together. So I’m gonna reassemble it, with the new parts, and see what the results are. 

wrote:

Wether or not it makes sense I’m pretty sure my issue was this and not a bad rod or crank bearing. I don’t want to open up a new can of worms by not being able to put everything back together. So I’m gonna reassemble it, with the new parts, and see what the results are. 
should at least pull pan and inspect 

 

Alright, I like that. Not completely disassembling everything. I’ll order a pan gasket and open it up before it goes back in the bike. 

$30.13 later, it should be here next week. I may have it all reassembled, and cleaned up by next weekend if all the parts come in when they’re supposed to. 

All parts are in, just have to run get them from the post office, grab some small things like gasket sealer for the head gasket and cam cover gasket and a new oil filter and she will be back together before I know it! 

Welp, changing everything over resulted in 2 parts broken and one Oring that refuses to seal. However everything is torqued timed and waiting on the liquid gasket to dry before it’s put back in the frame. 

I can’t seem to find a replacement Oring for the fuel level sensor. I’ve read some users have used a gas proof permeatex or equivalent, however I plan on changing tanks to one without dents and in better shape than mine soon so I’d rather avoid that. 

Can I use a petcock base O ring for the fuel level sensor base o ring?

Against my better judgement, I got some fuel resistant gasket maker and installed the fuel sensor, no leaks now. 
finished reinstalling everything on the bike, timed my DYNA ignition system, and played with the manual tensioner while spinning the engine over (without spark plugs) to move all new oil to the head and surroundings. Put the carbs back in and turned the gas on. And 2/4 were leaking out of the overflow, and the o rings around the fuel tee must have gone bad because it’s leaking bad. Got it fired up and warmed up enough to do my 2nd torque of the head nuts. Fixed the leak out of the tachometer so all is well on the oil leak front for now. 

Where can I get the O-rings for the fuel tee? This is the last thing I need before it is rideable. 

Welp, since no one has offered any help lately?, I will update everyone on my solution. A #5 o ring from Home Depot solved my fuel Tee leak. Now the bike runs good, measures fuel, doesn’t leak oil, and no more knock.

I will give me advise for anyone who orders a manual tensioner, the idle screw blocks any kind of ratchet from reaching the bolt, however it is possible to slip a ratcheting wrench back there and that does the trick. Well worth the $14 to toss in my tool roll and not have to worry about again.