Cam install help

The #10 tensioner does move freely but there is too much resistance in the chain.  It's like as the cams get tightened down the chain has more and more resistance on it. So I think the routing is right and the tensioner is working right but there's something else going on.

Ahh I get it. The chain tightens up between the cam and the crank? The tensioner/idler isnt binding,  your feeling resistance as the chain get taught. I’m wondering if you have a stuck valve, stuck bucket, something causing the cam to rotate as the lobe is pushed against the potential stuck item. The cam would normally push the stuck part down, but in your case the cam can not push it down and the cam is rolled backwards taking up the chain slack between the cam and crank, the slack shows up between the can gears. Something is stuck

That's certainly something to ponder Mikaw.  I'll try depressing each bucket with a wedge.  Dammit, I'll bet the PO bent a valve.  He had the valve cover off and was in there. The guy left a trail everywhere he went.  I checked all the inner head bolt nuts and none of them looked like they've been removed recently.  Going to check the buckets now.

I’m gonna guess it’s on the exhaust at the #1 cam cap that broke. 
 

That seems logical.  I just went out and used my shim change tool to depress what buckets don't have a lobe pushing on them.  The 2 exhaust valves on # 1 both I was able to depress as I was able to do on all the others that were accessible.  And the ones with lobes pushing on them were all depressed.  Checking on that tensioner arm a little closer, it moves freely for the first inch of travel.  Then it goes up against the chain and gets stuck. That first inch of travel there isn't even any slack to push against. When I was pulling the crank through lining up the ignition index mark, everything was smooth so nothing is binding down there. 

wrote:

That seems logical.  I just went out and used my shim change tool to depress what buckets don't have a lobe pushing on them.  The 2 exhaust valves on # 1 both I was able to depress as I was able to do on all the others that were accessible.  And the ones with lobes pushing on them were all depressed.  Checking on that tensioner arm a little closer, it moves freely for the first inch of travel.  Then it goes up against the chain and gets stuck. That first inch of travel there isn't even any slack to push against. When I was pulling the crank through lining up the ignition index mark, everything was smooth so nothing is binding down there. 

Silly question. Was the chain moving when you were rotating the crankshaft?

Yes, it's on the gear no question. I just took the intake cam off... AGAIN...  am able to depress all the buckets, then pulled them and checked for anything that looked amiss... just grabbing at straws now... I have no clue what to do next.

I wouldn’t say your “grabbing at straws”. Your actual checking operation and function of components that interact with each other. It’s a process of elimination sometimes. To find what’s broken you have to rule out what works.Your just confirming basics on a bike you know nothing about.
 

Read thru these as reference. Make sure the cam gears are on their respective cams correctly

After reading thru this thread about 5 times I’m still not sure I understand what the problem is. As you put things back in place there will naturally be less slack in the cam chain and in effect more resistance. If you are sure everything is lined up correctly have you installed the top idler with the cam chain adjuster loosened all the way? If so was the any slack in the cam chain or was it bone tight?  I seem to recall the OP mentioning a strange snap sound when he was doing something with the cam chain adjuster awhile back but I don’t know if that was sorted out. Am I correct in that the head and block was not removed to date?

Rick H. 

Maybe you should measure the chain to see how much it has worn.  They get longer as they wear.  Here is the page from the '78 KZ1000 manual, but as far as I know they use the same chain.



 

The #1 and #3 cam caps have a guide milled in them so the cams won't walk side to side. Did you pinch the #3 cap on the cam making it immovable. I've had that happen more than once. Is there still slack at the idler between the cams?
Steve