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Tool trivia , the original "Vice Grip" locking pliers were designed and manufactured in Dewitt Nebraska by Peterson Manufacturing about 40 miles South of my home. Peterson Manufacturing started out being basically a one man Blacksmith shop, and the Vice Grip was their claim to fame. The quality has of course fallen off now that Peterson was bought out and they are now made overseas. They hold very well if tightened "White Knuckle Tight"

Sorry for off topic post!

Mike.

krazee1 wrote: They hold very well if tightened "White Knuckle Tight" Mike.

Or as z1kzonly puts it, “That type of squeeze that hurts your hand when it locks tight and vibrates through your hand and you say ouch! That hurt!”

Is the exhaust still on the bike? If so take it off to give you "some fighting room." I'd try heat on the head around the stud with Channel Locks if that didn't work Vice Grips. Some are installed with a locking agent like Lock tight. I will turn it one way then the other until it becomes loose then back it out then have a cigarette like after sex.
Steve

The issue with heating the head is that there is a lot of mass and the heat will be wisked sway from the stud area.
You can try, but I just don't think a lot remains in the localized area unless you use something like a OA torch.

Thanks again for all the advice, really appreciated.

I can't find any KROIL oil here in The Netherlands, it seems to only be available in the USA.

Yesterday I gave it another shot with welding, but no luck. Also I found a cheap pair of vicegrips, which simply gets 0 grip on the stud. Next step is to buy a better set of vicegrips, heating up the head significantly and trying it with some other oils I will find at the shop.

Try mixing acetone and ATF automatic transmission fluid 50/50.
Second best to Kroil.

/Anders

There's a place called Brownell's that sells a lot of firearms related items. I know they have overseas websites. You may want to try them as they sell Kroil, but I don't know what the overseas charges are for it. A can of it will last a long time. Some people also make their own home brewed thread penetrant using more common substances, but I have never messed with it as I always had Kroil to use. GENERALLY speaking you don't need to get stuck parts glowing red hot, unless it's a '54 Chevrolet exhaust manifold stud, so bear that in mind. Sometimes just a little bit of heat will do the job for you so go at it in stages. Anders got me by a minute on the home brewed solution.

Rick H.

Soak with diesel over a period of time, it penetrates just as well as any other thing out there and a lot cheaper.

Heat, penetrate and shock are all your friend. When i removed the studs from my engine case to ship it to the vapor hone shop I used Liquid wrench and reapplied it every other day. On the way out and in of the garage for about 10 days leaving and coming from work I grabbed a small brass hammer and firmly buy nicely strike each stud twice daily. I didn't need heat. Every stud came out without to much difficulty.

If you're going to buy a new vice grip, go to a good tool shop and spend the extra money. Gunters and Meuser.or somewhere like that. I think Bouwmaat also has decent ones ,if you have a card. Whatever you do, don't go to Praxis or Gamma.
For penetrating oil,there are loads available in Holland and they all do pretty much the same thing (cue outrage!). I think the brand is less important than the time you spend dousing the area. Patience is your friend here. Good luck.

Once you use and smell Kroil you will never go back! Anything that smells that bad simply has to work. No outrage, I just know what works for me. If it helps me get a 100 year old rifle barrel off the receiver without marring anything it should handle just about anything.

Rick H.

The trick with acetone and ATF is that acetone has a very low viscosity and it mixes with the ATF fluid. There by beeing sucked in by the capillary force, the acetone evaporates and levels the oil in the tread.
Works like a charm but it might take some time and require a couple of applications.

/A