Exhaust stud stuck, no thread left to put two nuts on

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24 Nov 2020 10:01 #838854 by krazee1
Tool trivia , the original "Vice Grip" locking pliers were designed and manufactured in Dewitt Nebraska by Peterson Manufacturing about 40 miles South of my home. Peterson Manufacturing started out being basically a one man Blacksmith shop, and the Vice Grip was their claim to fame. The quality has of course fallen off now that Peterson was bought out and they are now made overseas. They hold very well if tightened "White Knuckle Tight"

Sorry for off topic post!

Mike.

Former M.E. at Kawasaki Motors Manufacturing, Lincoln, NE
1966 W1 (the Z1 of 1966-50H.P. and 100mph!)
1974 Z1
1978 KZ1000 LTD
1976 KZ900B pile O parts
1980 KZ750E
1980 Honda XL250S (I know, wrong flavor!)

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24 Nov 2020 10:16 #838857 by Mikaw

krazee1 wrote: They hold very well if tightened "White Knuckle Tight" Mike.


Or as z1kzonly puts it, “That type of squeeze that hurts your hand when it locks tight and vibrates through your hand and you say ouch! That hurt!”

1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.

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  • SWest
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  • 10 22 2014
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24 Nov 2020 14:12 #838883 by SWest
Is the exhaust still on the bike? If so take it off to give you "some fighting room." I'd try heat on the head around the stud with Channel Locks if that didn't work Vice Grips. Some are installed with a locking agent like Lock tight. I will turn it one way then the other until it becomes loose then back it out then have a cigarette like after sex. :woohoo:
Steve

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24 Nov 2020 16:44 #838891 by Nessism
The issue with heating the head is that there is a lot of mass and the heat will be wisked sway from the stud area.
You can try, but I just don't think a lot remains in the localized area unless you use something like a OA torch.

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26 Nov 2020 04:38 #838957 by Jasper.R
Thanks again for all the advice, really appreciated.

I can't find any KROIL oil here in The Netherlands, it seems to only be available in the USA.

Yesterday I gave it another shot with welding, but no luck. Also I found a cheap pair of vicegrips, which simply gets 0 grip on the stud. Next step is to buy a better set of vicegrips, heating up the head significantly and trying it with some other oils I will find at the shop.

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26 Nov 2020 07:27 #838970 by scubaanders
Try mixing acetone and ATF automatic transmission fluid 50/50.
Second best to Kroil.

/Anders

Gpz750R1 1982
Gpz750A1 1983
Gpz1100A2 1984
FZ750 1985
Gpz900R -91
The following user(s) said Thank You: Nessism

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26 Nov 2020 07:28 - 26 Nov 2020 07:30 #838971 by Rick H.
There's a place called Brownell's that sells a lot of firearms related items. I know they have overseas websites. You may want to try them as they sell Kroil, but I don't know what the overseas charges are for it. A can of it will last a long time. Some people also make their own home brewed thread penetrant using more common substances, but I have never messed with it as I always had Kroil to use. GENERALLY speaking you don't need to get stuck parts glowing red hot, unless it's a '54 Chevrolet exhaust manifold stud, so bear that in mind. Sometimes just a little bit of heat will do the job for you so go at it in stages. Anders got me by a minute on the home brewed solution.

Rick H.

Rick H.

1977 Kawasaki KZ-1000A1
Last edit: 26 Nov 2020 07:30 by Rick H..

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26 Nov 2020 09:20 #838984 by kevski
Soak with diesel over a period of time, it penetrates just as well as any other thing out there and a lot cheaper.

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26 Nov 2020 09:31 #838985 by Mikaw
Heat, penetrate and shock are all your friend. When i removed the studs from my engine case to ship it to the vapor hone shop I used Liquid wrench and reapplied it every other day. On the way out and in of the garage for about 10 days leaving and coming from work I grabbed a small brass hammer and firmly buy nicely strike each stud twice daily. I didn't need heat. Every stud came out without to much difficulty.

1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.

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26 Nov 2020 13:40 #839000 by davido
If you're going to buy a new vice grip, go to a good tool shop and spend the extra money. Gunters and Meuser.or somewhere like that. I think Bouwmaat also has decent ones ,if you have a card. Whatever you do, don't go to Praxis or Gamma.
For penetrating oil,there are loads available in Holland and they all do pretty much the same thing (cue outrage!). I think the brand is less important than the time you spend dousing the area. Patience is your friend here. Good luck.

www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/594313-csr1000-project-build
CB550 (1978)
CB500/4 (1972)*
KZ1000CSR (1981)
XT 600E (1999)
TDM900 (2003)

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26 Nov 2020 14:03 #839003 by Rick H.
Once you use and smell Kroil you will never go back! Anything that smells that bad simply has to work. No outrage, I just know what works for me. If it helps me get a 100 year old rifle barrel off the receiver without marring anything it should handle just about anything.

Rick H.

Rick H.

1977 Kawasaki KZ-1000A1

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27 Nov 2020 07:42 #839041 by scubaanders
The trick with acetone and ATF is that acetone has a very low viscosity and it mixes with the ATF fluid. There by beeing sucked in by the capillary force, the acetone evaporates and levels the oil in the tread.
Works like a charm but it might take some time and require a couple of applications.

/A

Gpz750R1 1982
Gpz750A1 1983
Gpz1100A2 1984
FZ750 1985
Gpz900R -91

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